Depends on weather and soil there. Water enough to keep moist, including original rootballs. Poke around with your finger if you can't tell how they are doing otherwise. Are they mulched? If not, they should be.

Water the soil and not the leaves as watering the leaves can promote fungal leaf diseases. Your aim is to keep the soil evenly moist, which is -obviouslly- hard to do. To tell when to water the soil for sure, use the finger method: insert a finger to a depth of 4" into the soil (the mulch does not count) and water if it feels almost dry or dry. Also mark on your wall calendar the days when you watered. To help maintain the soil moist, cover the root area with mulch, about 3-4" of any type of acidic mulch, up to drip line or a little beyond. Plants in sandy soil need about 1/3 to 1/2 more water than plants in clayish soil. Continue watering with the finger method for about 2 weeks. Then review the information on your wall calendar. Determine how often you water and set the sprinkler to do the same on the same frequency (every three/four/etc days). If temperatures change by 15 degrees or more and stay there, consider rechecking using the finger method. Beware of moisture and temperatures problems this winter. I live in Zone 8a and our winter temperatores fluctuate a lot. Temperatures can zoom to almost 80 and the crash to the 20-30s. We can also go over two weeks without moisture or we can get a little rain each week. This winter try to maintain the soil moist as best you can with the help of the winter method. During future winters, you can water much less than the finger method suggests because the plants are dormant and well established. But just because they are dormant, do not think you do not need to water. One dry winter season ago, I turned the sprinkler off and forgot. I suddendly noticed that most of my camellias started browning the leaves! Oops! The part that I cannot help you with is exactly how much to water to apply to the soil for plants of this size. I try to make sure that each watering will keep the soil moist to a depth of 14-18" but perhaps someone else can advise for such large rootballs. There is Coast South Carolina Camellia Society in Mount Pleasant that you can try to contact. Wesley Fisher is their president. You can reach them at (843) 388-0329, at wesfish@bellsouth.net or at the link below. Does that help you? Luis Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Coastal Carolina Camellia Society Website

I would go ahead and give them the tea now,if it was me.As for watering,in the heat of summer they will need lots of water.I water mine every other day and some times every day when its hot and humid here,with no rain. Jean

Wow. What a great gardener you are. I think it's unlikely the rhizome was harboring its own death. The soil always has pathogens and if a rhizome is nicked, the warm temps. and moisture will provide the ideal environment for fast growth of the pathogen. I had rot one time only. The smell was unforgettable. Never could figure it out as the other rhizomes 1-inch away were fine. Only one rhizome was affected. And not a new planting. Regarding watering of new rhizomes I follow the regime of a grower with soil the opposite of mine. She's on a mountain (huge hill) with decomposed granite which holds no water and 15-20 degrees hotter than my area. In order to grow iris their tractor discs (?) in a mountain of decomposed compost every other year. After planting the beds are soaked thoroughly. Then no water for one month. I use an overnight drip on new rhizomes. Do you have squirrels that could have tried to sample a rhizome?