Hi Ohiofem, Thank you for your reply! About 8 of my seedlings were labeled Clivia miniata dark, broad leaf orange/red/and bronze and are from South Africa. These are fascinating me as even though they only have 3 leaves, they all have rather dark pigmented bases.. a couple are more lightly pigmented (I love saturated colors anyway so various shades of orange are OK with me)..and the leaves are somewhat different on each..some are shorter, fatter, most do appear to be going to be with wider leaves (I think). I have some crosses that I bought from EBay that have green bases and these mostly have thinner leaves. And I have 4 newer just barely 2" seedlings and those too are all green(maybe it's too early for the base color to show(?)..and, I'm hoping for some peaches too.. I have a yellow seedling that has a dark base.. I think I'll have a smorgasbord of colors when they do bloom. Thank you for your growing advice.. I have just been using Miracle Grow at a very week solution each time I water them and am using a very quick drying soil mix (the same I use for my amaryllis) and they are in tiny clay pots and receive bright light with only sun the last few hours of the day..I will move them to a brighert window with a bit more sun when I get the bulk of my amaryllis bulbs outside!! I most definitly look forward to growing some variegated plants..the durumas in particular. I prefer the leaves with a moderate amoung of variegation as opposed to the duck(?) varieties with large splashed of white. Did you buy your plants from China or did you grow them from seeds? I do see the beautiful plants from China on EBay and I do a lot of drooling, but hesitate to buy a plant from that far away..seeds I may try but haven't yet.. As of today I have a total of 15.. who knows what next week will bring...;-) Donna

Mjsdos: You are in the right track with your plan to use gritty mix and fertilize weekly, weakly with foliage pro. But, please do not soak the plant. It may seem like the gritty mix doesn't hold enough moisture, but it holds more than you realize and clivias do much better if they dry out between waterings. I sometimes go weeks without watering mine when they are outside during the summer and we have regular rain. I water them about as much as I do my jade plant. In fact, I incorporate osmocote in my gritty mix so I know they are being fed whenever it rains. As for the advice about giving them a cold treatment in the fall, that is widely followed in the clivia growing community. The standard is to give them 6 weeks of temps between 40 and 50. (Forget the dark treatment.) But I have a friend in Hawaii who grows them in his yard where it rarely gets below 70, and they all bloom more than once a year. Re: light -- I grow mine in dappled shade with a few hours of sun in the morning. Experiment by slowly giving them a little more light (but no full afternoon sun) and see how they do. They need some bright light. I grow mine in a southeastern facing window in the winter.

Bronx: There really hasnt been any SCIENTIFIC work done with clivias, which means that there hasnt been any truly objective, longterm, and peer reviewed work done in the field of clivia Genetics. Its all done by hobbists, which is both great and bad at the same time. Great because there are a lot of very passionate people in the hobby, bad because we cant go and check these things like you could say with a tomato plant. A large amount of the information out there isnt even really right. Its sad but true. I am just enough of a scientist to know the information is partial or flawed and not enough of a scientist to explain why unfortunately. I have tried a few times. BUT more to your question, your best bet is to ask the people who are selling the plants. If they dont know hopefully they will be honest about it. With the peaches in general: Vic Peaches: We have a bunch of these in our personal collection, they flower well, they offset well, they come in a variety of colors. They dont have huge flower heads IMO but they make up for it with prettyness. Vic Peaches are more wide leaved than the south african varieties and slightly more compact. We get some really subtle colors with or vic peaches and are using them in G2 crosses. Ours generally have between 13-20 florets. The flowers are nicely sized. Cameron Peach: I have a few small ones but no large ones of our own. This will be changing this year so I will have personal observations to share. There are broad leaved versions of these, we have some seedlings and can confirm they grow about 2X the normal width. These tend to be a little wider than the chubb ones or the tipperaries in our collection, again talking about 2yr-3yr old seedlings so no info on final sizes. Chubb Peach: The original chubb peaches are great flowering plants, and the later generations are good breeding stock. I dont know about offsetting, ours has not offsetted. There are a LOT of different chubb peaches but most are thinner leaved. This line is starting to throw a lot of really pretty rose lips and green throats. Sean mostly focuses on flower color but he also has a good amount of wide leafed plants and has done work with a lot of trades into Japanese stock, so you get some suprises when you start growing his seed. These have really nice sized flower heads although I have seen some with small flower heads. This is as much about how they are grown by the grower (you) as the genetics though. Tipperary Peaches: These are like the chubb peaches I believe, somewhat thin leaf. We have been buying deeply into the newest generations of these and have not been buying adults so again no adult observations here. Letcha know in a few years ;). Theres a lot of exciting things going on color wise with this line. Personally These could be as large as my dining room table and I would still want em ;) These seem to mostly be in that same 12-20 floret range. Poorman's Peach: I have some adults coming in this year and will update this as to their shape etc. This is a new cross with a really fine peach color. Also known as Primich peach after the creator Nich Primich. These have had really nicely sized flowers and are being used for flower form in a lot of crosses now. Gail: Gail is a US peach that has a mid sized leaf and a very pretty color. We have it crossed into a pile of adults and all of them flower nicely. We never bought a straight "Gail" however. This is again used for flower form and size. Can you tell we like our peaches? :) Anderson peach: Thinner leaf but compact. VERY pretty dark peach color. Fairly rare but a good one for breeding towards a more compact peach. Ours has not offsetted. Theres a lot of peaches out there but I think those are the 4 basic lines plus a couple more and a little info on each for you all.

Hi Marylyn, I imagine 2 possibilities for you. First, the plant could be beyond help and is dying. It could be that the infection was very far advanced (you mentioned rotted leaves). Second, it could be the plant is recovering slowly, and it will take a long time to put out new roots and that it is just short of water now. If it has had a lot of damage it will need a lot of time to recover even if the infection is now under control. Did you use a fungicide at all, if you didn't I'd encourage you to consider a systemic fungicide if the plant seems like it has a fighting chance. Rotted roots are a symptom of incorrect soil conditions, but rotted leaves are a possible symptom of an infection inside the tissues of the plant. Anyway, here is a quote from a Web page. It sort of implies Clivia bulbs will continue to lose water until they have developed a good set of new roots. Q. How do I resuscitate my clivia that lost its roots ? A. Remove any rotted root until you see healthy tissue, apply fungicide to the affected area, let it dry out, then apply rooting solution or powder. Wet a handful of sphagnum moss, then squeeze it hard until it no more water comes out then wrap sphagnum moss at the base (where roots are supposed to come out). Put the plant in a super high humidity environment like a zip lock bag, plastic bag or terrarium. Check periodically for sign of rooting. Once the plant is starting to root, repot the plant making sure that the small roots are not broken in the process of transplanting." Write to me if you want more information on fungicides. http://www.dragonagro.com/dapclivia.htm Cordially, Joe johnson3591@aol.com Here is a link that might be useful: Clivia Article