Seems to me that wood should be one of the sources of organic matter that is applied to soil. Wood is partly made of long-lasting organic molecules (lignins) that serve as food for mycorrhizal fungi. I add wood chips to my compost piles when I can, and I almost always can. How well wood chips works as a mulch and soil amendment depends upon a lot of factors. What kinds of trees were the source of the chips? How small are the chips? How much leaf and small twig is in the waste? How fresh are the chips? What is the climate where they will be used? Does the soil beneath the wood chips have lots of organic matter in it already, and what kind of OM is in the soil (decomposed wood, fresh compost, aged compost?) From what I read here, it seems like wood chips work well in hot, humid environments, almost regardless of other factors. They also seem to work well when their use is ongoing, where there has been wood mulch in place for years. Fresh, small wood chips that contains lots of twigs and fresh leaves composts very hot and seems like an ideal mulch to suppress weeds. Just like compost piles, fresh chips benefit from being in a pile where the vapors, both water and ammonia, can be reabsorbed by the pile. I'd even suggest covering the pile while it is at its hottest. Covering the pile will slow the loss of water and ammonia and speed its decomposition. I'm thinking of a four-layer method of creating new garden beds. Starting in the fall, on the bare soil, apply some of the humic shale ore like Zamzow's Huma Green. Maybe scratch it into the very top of the soil. Then lay on four inches of finished compost. Then several inches of unfinished compost, and finally a mulch of wood chips that have had a chance to decompose for a bit. I think there would be a good interaction between the unfinished compost and the wood chips. By spring the finished compost will be integrated with the topsoil, and the layers above might be a perfect mulch. Dig through it to plant your plants, perhaps keeping it away from the plant stems until the plants are established and the weather warms up. The wood chips will protect the layers underneath and eventually become part of the compost.

So I went by Lowes today and saw a couple of Hibiscus I could't live without. They are 2 small plants, but they were $4 each. They are a bright fuscia color. I didn't know Hibiscus was such a pretty flower....so much to learn! So I brought them home. I should of bought some pots too, but afraid hubby will notice a major charge on the debit card. LOL I figure if I keep frequent low charges, they aren't as alarming...LMAO! Yes, I am planning on attending the plant swap. I do need to print up the directions and all. As far as Salvia goes, not sure what kind I have, I'll have to pull up the tag and read it when I get home. I didn't put the seeds far in the dirt. I just sprinkled the seeds on top of the soil and put about 1/8 of an inch of soil spread on top. So they are very lightly in there. Hopefully they'll still be okay. Ooo, yes, I looked up the pics of the Salvia, and I like. And I'll have to look up what the Texas Star Hibiscus looks like, but I know I'll probably like those too if I like the ones I bought already. Thanks so much for your help! I can't tell you how much it's appreciated!

I agree that for the most part, what trees you like are a matter of taste. That said, there are some trees that, while having some nice ornamental properties are highly invasive. Chinaberry, Ligustrum and Chinese Tallow (another "evil" one) are extremely invasive around here, displacing native species. I think most of us can agree that's a bad thing. I also agree with Lou that over planting any variety of tree, native or not can be a bad thing. Ask anyone in the northern part of the country where American Elm was the dominant boulevard tree if a little more variety wouldn't have been nice when the majority of them succumbed to Dutch Elm disease in the 80's. Like the Live Oak around here, it was a quality, native tree that was just over-used. I hope our neighborhood never experiences Oak Wilt since the builder planted Live Oaks almost exclusively and they are mostly now 20' to 30' trees, along with some mature ones that were preserved. I'm seeing Monterrey Oaks planted more and more, which I find encouraging as they are supposed to be wilt resistant and are also evergreen or nearly so. Bug-the reason I dislike AZ Ash, above all else, is the root system. We have a neighbor that has one on the west side of their house that's about 25' tall, so it's giving off nice shade. The problem is the roots are on top of the ground everywhere, including large ones pushing up against their foundation. I can't see that situation getting any better... If in doubt, go over to Dave's Garden and check out some of the pictures and reviews of AZ Ash. I think if TX Ash was more widely available and it was more well known it would help. People are going to keep planting AZ Ash and its cultivars if nurseries and the big boxes keep selling them. After all, they wouldn't be selling it if it was a "trash" tree, would they? ;^)

we recently signed a contract w Claffey (haven't started actual build yet). they were about 4-5k higher than the other 2 bids we got, but i've had two friends use them and they had positive experiences. this is our 1st pool build so i felt better about going with someone with their reputation even if it cost a little more. so far i would summarize the pros as: knowledgeable salesperson, willing to stay in a budget range, willing to itemize estimate to help with trade-offs (not just a single 'bottom line price' where you can never figure out what costs what) the only real con is that their price was higher. but with the stories i hear about less reputable PBs adding on unexpected charges during the build or failing to live up to warranty claims etc, I'll have to see what the ultimate "total cost of ownership" is to find out if it is really more expensive or not we'll see how it goes...