Your plant looks amazing! You've been doing a great job. The amount of light looks fine to me. As summer gets deeper, the angle of the sun will change, temporarily providing less to any window in the northern hemispere, so may be insufficient for a few months if kept inside. These plants like plenty of light, just not during the hot part of the day. Please don't consult about.com for anything regarding plants without confirming the veracity of the info found there independently - the necessity of which is the sign of an inferior, unreliable, worthless source. Watering so often is likely the cause of this plants' health issues, in conjunction with what looks like an attached drain saucer about an inch deep on that pot. Constantly soggy roots in a pot can/will rot. I would encourage you to snap that off, and consider replacing the soil if your plant has been in the same stuff for a while. Then when you water, do it at a sink until water runs out of the holes in the bottom. When it's finished dripping, it can rest back on the drip tray, no need to snap it back on. Wait until the soil has dried significantly before watering it again. The buildup of excess water over time also means the buildup of tap water chemicals. Changing the soil for plants that have been in their pots for a long time usually results in a great growth spurt in those plants that are sensitive to these chemicals. I don't know if Hypoestes is or not, but operate under the assumption that any plants would prefer to avoid that, or to at least have it fixed/"re-set" periodically. This particular plant is much better at growing great-looking new foliage than maintaining old foliage. If it were mine, I'd trim the worst looking 2-3 stems back to the soil level. That should inspire it to send up some new stems. When those have grown to something pleasing to look at, trim another few stems, or the rest of them, depending on how many new ones come up the first time. Removing the yellowed leaves but leaving the stems in place could inspire those stems to make side branches where the leaves were, preferably fairly close to the bottom, where they will be more sturdy. Pinching the growth tip from each stem is another technique for inspiring side branches to form. As tall as those stems are, I wouldn't recommend that since tip pinches are quite likely to inspire new branches toward the tip, where they will make stems top-heavy. Misting leaves can cause more problems than it's worth for the (debatable) temporary increase in humidity... which is from evaporation of the fallen droplets unless you really do have a mister, which could possibly increase the ambient humidity slightly for 60 seconds or so. Any kind of movement of air within the room will nullify that. More likely a bacteria or fungus could find the proper conditions to take up residence on your plants' leaves. My time's up, sorry, not proof-read...

Hi, Sarah - don't worry about 'fitting in'. Everyone is always anxious to help a fellow grower who's in need. A couple of things I noticed, one of which isn't too important, but the other is, is that lifting your pots can be an extremely effective way to gauge the moisture content of the soil. The soils I use are so porous that it's very difficult to over-water, yet I have at least a dozen plants I check regularly by lifting them to see how heavy the planting is, which instantly tells me if they need water. That technique works best for smaller plants in light pots. The second issue that I think warrants additional discussion is whether or not the effluent (water that has exited the drain hole) needs to be removed from the collection saucer. You can decide, but I left this, which directly addresses that issue, on another thread yesterday: The reason we are wisely instructed to flush the soil when we water so a significant fraction of the total volume of water applied when we irrigate exits the drain hole are two. One is to help ensure the entire soil volume is moistened, but equally or even more important is the fact that this practice purges the soil of accumulating solubles (salts) that make water/nutrient absorption increasingly difficult as the TDS/EC levels (salt levels) become more concentrated. At best, too high concentrations of solubles in the soil solution spoil the appearance of foliage, usually first becoming manifest in burned root tips and leaf tips/margins, at worst in the collapse of the plant. We need to note though, that the soil the plant is in needs to be able to support this type of watering w/o the grower having to be concerned about extended periods of impaired root function due to soggy conditions, or worse, root rot getting a hold because of the same concern. Isotonicity is the process by which the level of dissolved solids in the effluent in a collection saucer will quickly balance or equalize itself to/with the level of dissolved solids in the soil solution. When there is a 'connection' between the effluent in the collection saucer and the water in the soil that results from a wick dangling in the effluent or the fact that a part of the soil is in contact with the effluent, all the solubles in the collection saucer will find their way back into the soil solution until the level of solubles in the effluent is equal to the level of solubles in the soil solution. If you take a new sponge that is saturated with fresh water and stand it on end in 1/2" of salted water or fertilizer solution, using an inexpensive moisture meter you can measure the increase in electrical conductivity at the top of the sponge within a very short time - seconds - a clear indication of isotonicity at work, of the fact that salts in the effluent will quickly reach a balance with the salts in the soil solution. So, not removing the water from the collection saucer ensures all the salts flushed from the soil can make their way back into the soil unless the connection between the soil and the effluent is broken. Best would be to water over a sink if plants are small enough & return the plant to the collection saucer after the pot has stopped draining, or for larger plants to set the pot up on 'feet' or blocks that are inside the saucer, the object of which is to effectively lift the soil above the effluent in the saucer, high enough to ensure the connection between the effluent and soil or any wick you might be using is broken. I hope that was helpful. Welcome to the forum - have fun! Al

They are the easiest. All my cuttings are growing, no matter how I cut them. Guess that's why they are not expensive in store :p

Love to trade sugar baby watermelon tango butter head lettuce lettuce Parrish island co2 romaine type For perstemon Palmer and rocky mountain