Thanks for the feedback everyone! Hi pnbrown, Is that because of fertilizer runoff? I'll probably be using organic methods for soil, but that sounds like maybe even my well might be at risk. I'll give your arm-dial method a shot when I visit again. Hey fruitnut, Great to hear! It's more like my home would be on a hill that's the highest within a small radius, then surrounded by taller peaks further away. There's no boulders and the grade of the land isn't too severe, though it's far from flat. Hi wayne_5, The place is in zone 9, so I hope I'll be able to take advantage of the relatively warm winters and keep on growing. Also plan to use at least one greenhouse. Is there maybe some kind of agriculture professional that could give me the answer based on a topographic map? Things are looking good, so that might help to finalize that I'm making the right choice.

Follow Up Question: It seems apricots and plums are more sensitive than pears & apples, but not as sensitive as cherries. Right in between, does that sound right? As of now, all the trees in question are recently purchased (young) in 10gallon containers. I have a Blenheim Apricot and a Weeping Santa Rosa Plum that are NOT doing well with full exposure to our afternoon sun (it's only 80'ish here right now). All the young shoots and leaves wilt very easily, even after watering. The leaves on woody branches are doing OK (which I think proves it's not over/under watered). However, the cherries certainly are having a more difficult time already, even tho in filtered sun. The pears are doing just fine in full sun -- apples are OK too, but showing edge curling on some leaves, not worried yet. BTW I haven't put up shade cloth yet. I do mulch and paint the trunks -- previously nothing helped for 100+ weather on young trees until the shade cloth. Once *well* established (i.e. over a year in-ground), the citrus and peaches/nectarines did fine with an acceptable amount of leaf loss from scorching without any shade cloth.

You should water new seeds twice a day. The ground that they are on/in should never get dry. It is almost as much work as taking care of a newborn baby......well, not as much, but you get the point. What type of grass was there originally? Whatever that is, you need to plant the same type or else you will have one of those funny looking lawns that change colors. You would think that grass is grass, but it isn't. Just drive around an look at people's yards, and you will see what I mean. Regarding the hay, stuff like that is helpful but not necessary. There are many different things you can do that have the same effect. It really only has an effect if the seeds were in danger of either washing or blowing away...or perhaps being eaten by birds. Lastly, "about 4 weeks ago" was July 1. That would just about be the worst time of the year to seed. Keeping it moist is very difficult at that time, and the summer heat requires you to baby even the baby seedlings. So, in sum, here is why I think our lawn didn't take: 1) not enough water 2) didn't plant at the right time of year If I were you, I would relax a couple weeks, perhaps pick some weeds if they annoy you, and then overseed on September 1. If you really want to make sure the seed takes, do the following: - rent a slit seeder so you can make sure there is seed to soil contact - topdress with compost Even if you don't rent the slit seeder (which most people don't want to do, topdressing with something would be very helpful.

Hi, is your low light caused by overhead trees? Or, are you trying to grow near a window? I had good luck growing several types of hot peppers and also lettuce in the shade of a large oak tree. The plants got direct sunlight only about 1 hour a day. If you are growing outside, you might be surprised at how well your plants might grow. You might be able to do a test by purchasing a few plants and placeing them in the area you are planning to set up your system. It might be the only way to really answer your question. You can use the link below to see the lettuce that is ready for harvest. chuck Here is a link that might be useful: lettuce in the shade (most of the time)