What induces flowering in Sansevieria?
socal23
18 years ago
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dufflebag2002
18 years agosocal23
18 years agoRelated Discussions
why does deadheading induce growth
Comments (25)Hi Andrea, you're going to find almost as many "theologies" about planting depth as you will pruning, fertilizing, spraying, disbudding, you name it! Mine is as follows: "1) It discourages rootstock suckers." If they say so. I have very seldom had ANY issues with root stock suckers unless there has been damage done to the feeder roots of the plant. Digging around too close to an established bush will break roots which often throw new top growth. Gophers gnawing through roots have caused the same. "Gardeners" who 'cultivate' rose beds CAUSE forests of Dr. Huey as well as encourage gall. Frequent, too-shallow watering also encourages all roots to move to the surface where you are much more likely to experience sucking from stocks and varieties alike. I haven't noticed buried bud unions "discouraging" suckers. I have experienced Lavender Pinocchio (awful, weak plant to begin with, even budded) getting buried, going own root and dying, leaving Dr. Huey growing beautifully around the dead own root plant. I don't buy # 1 based upon my three-plus decades of growing MANY roses in this climate. As long as the stock is properly prepared; the scion is vigorous and growing well; no one "cultivates" around the bushes, damaging feeder roots to stimulate sucker growth; shovels remain out of the rose bed, preventing root damage from their use; gophers aren't an issue in the beds, causing root damage and encouraging stock suckering; water is applied properly so it flushes deeply through the soil instead of remaining too shallow so the roots grow TO the surface when suckers are more likely to occur, stock suckers have not been an real issue for me. "2) It encourages grafted roses to form their own roots, which, in the long run, increase the plant's viability." Really? That will depend upon many variables. MANY roses we've discussed on these forums are dawgs own root. Those should first be removed from their blanket statement of benefit. Add those which sucker madly. Do you want a rose to sucker all over your rose beds and lawn? Perhaps those types which you may have specifically obtained budded should also be removed? How about those whose genetics are simply not suitable for you soil and water types? Multiflora genes come to mind. They don't mix well with my soil and water, but put them on Huey roots and they don't become and remain albino due to chlorosis. I will agree that it MIGHT encourage some roses to form their own roots. The second part is a large, "it all depends". They presume all roses are good own root, in all places, which, as we have seen, is not true. "3) Roses seem to put out more canes when the graft is buried." Oh, for a time machine! Perhaps in the warmer nursery cans of rich soil compared to the cold, damp ground at Berkeley Hort. Nursery. I've been there and it is a gorgeous, interesting and fun nursery. I would LOVE to be able to snatch that person, drag them back in time to that Newhall canyon and SHOW them how in this climate and soil, what they advise resulted in one and two cane wonders which refused to produce new basals. Uncover the bud unions and magically, new basals! "4) It looks more natural and aesthetically pleasing to have several canes coming out of the ground than to have a dried-out looking graft bulge above the soil's surface." That is a statement of personal preference and not a horticultural benefit. "Roses grown on their own roots should be planted at the same level they are in their nursery container." Why? What is the difference between planting a budded plant two inches deeper so it has multiple canes protruding from the soil to encourage it to go own root and planting an own root plant two inches deeper to encourage it to develop multiple, own root plants? You can suffocate many plants by planting them too deeply or raising the soil level around them after they are established. What about those which don't go own root, remaining dependent upon their budded roots? New basals come from the bud union. Pushing it deeper into the soil reduces what stimulates it to produce new basals. If own root plants need to be planted at their original growing level, what is so different about budded plants? Run your own experiment. Buy two, identical budded roses and plant one each way, following each style of advice for them. See which performs to your satisfaction. I honestly have not done that. I have witnessed what I've described and how the plants responded to being planted "properly". VERY seldom has being planted too deeply produced results I found beneficial. In fact, the only case which comes to mind was with the Harkness Hulthemia hybrid, Euphrates. Erosion buried the imported plant which responded by rooting from every cane. Instead of one, vigorous budded plant, I had MANY, smaller, smaller growing own root plants. I can't explain why the person writing this thinks or thought that way. Just as I can't explain why someone in a climate not requiring it for winter protection, would advise pruning HTs to 18" every year. Most roses are so bloody persistent, they will live to spite you. But, they will probably not be as good as they COULD have been. Kim...See Morecoffee grounds as a flowering inducer
Comments (2)Merizsa, I suppose you could say that since the grounds have whatever degree of nitrogen in them, such addition to plants generally, would do OK by them. You have been adding coffee grounds for two months...but then how much is that, how often in those two months and how much volume of soil does the plants so affected have. Coffee grounds are indeed sligtly acidic and if you were to take the coffee waste from a STARBUCKS on a daily basis and gave that to your garden plants that surely would amount to a hefty giving of nitrogen. But, giving an amount such as that to one or two houseplants I've gotta think it would be overkill. Coffee grounds do affect soil's acidity and mixed with the soil can add benefit. Now you have to just measure how much, how often. what you don't want to do is upset the balance of soil that is the medium the roots are deriving nutrition from. Dilute with water for a gentle, liquid fertilizer. Use about a half-pound of used grounds in a five-gallon bucket of water. It would be best to let this container sit for a time to garner room temperature. Tea leaves can be said has the same benefit. Tea bags, once used, can be used again in diluted form to give a tonic to houseplants. Tea bags can be allowed to dry and then be broken open and spread on the soil surface and each time you water, it gives a diluted feeding. One thing dried coffee grounds does do, it makes slugs, snails and gnats think twice about walking over it. You might take this too far. We know that nitrogen if given in too heavy an amount can cause plants to grow well....but can upset the plant's wish to create flowering. Same with outdoor plants that are given too much nitrogen...sometimes by careless use of lawn fertilizer around gardens that causes an increased take-up of nitrogen and deprives the plant's wish for phosphurus. Phosphurus is the element that will increase flowering....See MoreInducing blooming and rooting cuttings
Comments (5)Thanks for the excellent article Passionflow. This whole issue is made trickier by the lack of a good ID on my plant. Not knowing if it is a short day or long day plant or even what temperatures it will survive makes the manipulation riskier. Without a good ID we also don't know what the normal flowering season should be. My plan: 1. I will go back through my seed stash to see if I can narrow down the varieties. 2. I will stop all fertilizing except for some potassium and stop being so nice on the watering. 3. I will use caution and not drastically cut back the plants. But I WILL take a fair number of cuttings to see if this might trigger a response. This will also give me "backup plants" in case of a drastic failure. 4. Since I have more than one specimen of each plant and some are smaller than my main monster plant I will put some outside - our temperatures range from 4°C at night to 15°C in the daytime. This may be cool enough to trigger a vernalization response without a huge risk. 5. I can also put some in a filtered light environment on an "underdeck" outdoors in case they could benefit from a part-shade situation. This would mimimc the growing out from under the tree canopy scenario. 6. Regarding the molissima, our hot humid climates are a far cry from the high altitudes and environmental conditions it likes in Colombia so I know I'm swiming upstream with this one and will settle for foliage. A couple more questiosn: Am I correct in assuming that once passifloras achieve maturity and do start flowering that any plants started from cuttings will also reflect this maturity? In citrus, I have read that sometimes a flowering response can be triggered by scoring the bark of the tree all the way around the trunk. The tree thinks it is dying and this triggers a massive flowering response...risky but interesting if I have a sacrificial plant....See MoreWhat species is Sansevieria sayuri?
Comments (19)Hi Stush, Russ, Thanks for taking the time to clear things up. I had started a series about the same time as the Sayuri but ended up giving them all away during a move. I started again recently and took a handful of leaf cuttings. Right now a Bantel's Sensation, variegated masoniana, Kirkii Silver, Fernwood Mikado, and a Concinna x Sudwalla hybrid. In the last case, the leaves are on the tender side and they were broken during planting as I received it bare root a month ago. The cuttings appear to have taken and now it's just the wating game. I dont expect anything that odd from most of them, I think at best, loss of variegation on the masoniana and Bantel. But that just means two more varieties that should grow a little more vigorously than the variegated mothers. Regarding the identification of the base form of that Sayuri, unvariegated forms of S. guineensis" seem to be pretty close to what I have coming out of that pot. I think any other differences can be chalked up to sunlight, soil, and weather. My plants stay indoors. On a tangent, the original Sayuri mother and a short leaf trifasciata are in bloom right now, one in a east window, and one in a west, so here's to hoping all the manual pollination yields something. Even if the base species themselves are relatively unremarkable, it's fun to try my hand at hybridization. Best wishes Stush, depression is rough and all I can say is keep on keeping on. Remember the good times and fight through the bad....See Moredufflebag2002
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