Allowing it to dry well will help if it's an issue with rotting roots, but those spots in the top pic aren't what overwatering or too dry usually looks like. When Pothos gets too dry, entire leaves turn evenly yellow, starting with those nearest the roots. Some of the damage in the 2nd pic could be from rotting roots but impossible to say for sure from a pic. Just in case it is some type of fungus, try to keep the foliage dry when watering. Pothos researchers at FL U say sudden drop in temps can cause spots like that. My (main) plant that didn't get brought inside seems to have suddenly developed these spots too since we've had a few colder nights in the midst of much warmer days. (There are some more interesting cuttings I've gotten in trade recently and I've lost interest in devoting space inside to the ubiquitous one. Curious at this point if it can survive winter here, so put it in the ground a few days ago. Last winters' experiment of whether it can go 4 months without a drink was successful, though my house isn't as dry as most during winter.) Symptoms - Leaves have scattered brown patches, usually located in the center of the leaf. Control - Low temperatures or abrupt change from very high temperatures to moderate temperatures can cause this discoloration, especially if plants are succulent and growing vigorously. Maintain even, warm temperatures. Here is a link that might be useful: Pothos production guide, UFL

After reading this thread, I realized I have a chinesis aloe. Lol. What brought me here though was because my whole aloe turned a light to medium brown. I recently (about 2 weeks or so ago) re.potted the thing into a bigger pot. He was in the small 4 inch plastic container that I bought him in over a year ago. So I did that. I fertilized him right away, which was the first time I’ve fertilized him this season.... it is spring here going into summer now. (I’m in zone 5b-6a (Western New York) depending on the map) anyways, I used potting soil and LOTS of perilite. The thing is, the soil feels very compacted. I even have poked a bamboo skewer into the soil to try to U.N. pack it some. Not sure if this is normal at first? The plant seemed to be doing okay, until I put him outside for about 4 days in direct sun (he was previously sitting in a south facing window sill in the house and did really well) I was told he needed more sun light by an avid Gardner so I put him outside. It’s rained on and off here for the past few days, so now that it’s brown, I’m not really sure what caused it because I did so many possible things that could have caused it. I mean, he was bone dry the other day before I watered him..... I was trying to let him dry out completely as I was worried about root rot. So I watered him thoroughly, but then it rained the very next day lol so was it under watered or overwatered? It was it because of too much sun? I’m so confused! Lol I don’t want the little bugger to die on me. I’ve grown quite fond of him! He’s a smaller guy, hasn’t grown much over the past year I’ve had him, and after reading this thread, I now know why..... these ornamental ones grow slowly. Can anyone help me? I’ve since brought him inside and out of any source of sunlight. I should add that it’s very hot and humid here during summer, as I’m right on the shores of Lake Erie

Any damage that is showing on your plants is mechanical - that means it came to be from shipping and other transport, handling or jostling. It is not the result of diseases or insects nor does it look like any watering issues. In reality, these plants look pretty darn good considering most big box stores do not take the slightest bit of care with their plants (hence the evidence of damage you are seeing). As to fertilizing, you need to identify your plants and then do a bit of research, as not all plants benefit from similar fertilization methods nor do they require it at the same time. Cacti and succulents have different needs than do tropical foliage plants and flowering houseplants (orchids, African violets, flowering gift plants) have yet another set of needs. In general, an all purpose liquid fertilizer used at 1/2 to 1/3 strength with every other watering is appropriate for most tropicals during their primary growing season (March through October) but you can get by with quite a bit less. I'd suggest you post this on the House Plants forum both to get accurate ID's on your plants and their advice as to when, how much and with what to best fertilize what you have.

Ooops Rani, I forgot to include labels, the little green already potted plant is another Euphorbia, likely E. francoisii. Grows well, interesting leaves, likes bright light, strong sun, just do it gradually to get it used to it (after dark box & travel). If the cluster of 3 leaves still has its base stem, it may re-root, just stick it back in its pot. If not, no big deal, the plant will barely notice it. The other plant is a Sansevieria (Sans. for short, aka Snake plant), have no further ID. Just place it in the clay pot it was perched in & use all the mix I bagged w/ it (that's what it was in before I thought to send it to you.) There is a Sans. forum but the key to these is bright, indirect light & infrequent watering. In this heat I'd say weekly, normally every 10 days - 2 wks. These are each very strong, almost indestructible plants. Hope you found the bagged Scoria at bottom of the box. I'll try to take some pix tonight/tomorrow. Maybe not be moving after all, big sigh of relief. Sorry I sent you pots that needs washing, I figured you have a yard & hose, I don't. (Also, I chose the cleaner looking ones.) I've had no pests or bugs indoors so no concerns there, just wash 'em w/ hot soapy water & place out in sunshine to dry. You're welcome, enjoy! Lena