Sure, and yes, if the trees are in an ideal situation, you can certainly get fruit in the 2nd year. You can thin to a few, if you're concerned about the tree putting out too much energy in fruit production, but if you've got a decent leaf canopy, I wouldn't worry. Patty S.

Thanks for posting! I am amazed at the differences. I have read on this forum many times about changes that can occur from year to year, but the pictures really do tell the tale.

Kasie - Can't believe you didn't grab it girl! Go back when you have time and hubby isn't in a hurry and grab one or two or what the hec maybe even three or four like I did, LOL! I have learned quickly to give my friends who come over the cheap ones from HD or Wallyworld. I like to share the aloha spirit but it starts getting rather costly when your plants aren't big enough to take cuttings from yet and everyone wants the most expensive one you have, lol. Now I give them the 6 dollar ones complete with inflo and they are happy campers...walah, problem solved and I am still sharing, lol...(now I sound like a cheap skate :) Teri - if the cutting is rotting it's more than likely from the bottom so you will want to cut from the bottom until you see good white wood where the cut is. I had to cut some of mine today and although I found white wood there was no latex flowing...don't know if they will make it or not. Is the top squishy, or just the bottom? The really squishy parts need to go, hopefully it is just from the bottom and you can reroot. Karen B. - That's a great find girl and at an excellent price! I have a KW but no inflo yet :( maybe later in the summer. Can you post pics of yours, would love to see it!

So the small ones had NO visible old wood when the season started?? This is not possible unless someone (e.g. friend, relative, neighbor, animal or landscaper) removed it. The old canes simply do not dissolve or disappear. There could also be different soil conditions in the area. Try spent coffee grounds or high-phosphorus fertilizer to encourage more blooms. Also, winter kill is winter kill. The closer the plant dies to the ground the worse it will bloom. The big shrubs look like they're close to a building. The closer to a warm structure, the better off they will survive winter. Hudrangeas differ greatly across the species too. Some can bloom on current year's growth (from the ground) and some only bloom on old wood. If all of your plants are a kind that bloom primarily on old wood, try raking leaves over them and leave the piles there all winter and part of spring until danger of frost has passed. This will protect both the stems and next year's flower buds. And do not cut off/down any old canes until around Memorial Day, as here might be a chance they are not dead yet.