I have found the English Roses to be a disappointment as cut flowers. It isn't just the short vase life, a lot of them have weak stems too that can't hold the large blooms upright for flower arranging. I'm moving away from them because of these faults. There are a few exceptions. Of the David Austin roses that I've grown FAIR BIANCA (white) and EVELYN (apricot pink) did the best as cut flowers, but good luck finding them in commerce. The hybrid tea ROUGE ROYALE (red) looks like an Austin rose but does extremely well as a cut flower. I can get blooms that last a week in a vase. GOLDEN CELEBRATION (yellow) is great if you live in an area not plagued by black spot. To condition the vase water add a pinch of sugar and one or two drops of bleach. Don't forget to recut the stems under water in the sink and then immediately plunk the roses into the vase. If air gets into the stem then it will form a bubble, travel up the stem, and collapse the bloom. Not a big deal if you only want one or two days of vase life, but I grow roses as much for cut flowers as garden specimens.

I have Abraham Darby - zone 5 just like you. In terms of vase life... Not super long lasting, but that fragrance. Ooof. Plus your plant once established will give you a good supply to replace those that give up in the vase. Darcey Bussel is an EXCELLENT ROSE. BUY IT. Don't look back! It's a variety that's also sold as a "garden rose" to us floral designers and it's a stunning red/crimson double. Gertrude Jekyll - Supposed to be magnificent in our climate. I can't speak on vase life, but I'd expect to be on the same lines. The biggest thing on extending vase life... is when you cut your roses - immediately put them in water. I don't cut mine until they are just about to open or even closed, this is how they are shipped in the industry. Also, make some homemade floral solution. lukewarm water, tsp of sugar, and a few drops vodka in your average size vase is the best solution. The sugar feeds the flowers, the vodka inhibits the production of ethylene by the flower, and the temperature helps your flowers absorb more water. Bleach solution I only use on more tube-like stemmed flowers - think gerbs and sunflowers. Give them a fresh cut with a knife - not snips. Snips effectively crush the xylem and phloem (tubules) and cause your flowers to not drink as much as they could as opposed to using a sharp knife (no squished stems) to cut them before putting them in your vase. I remove thorns and leaves that would be under water... anything above water - leave it (unless ugly). Unnecessary openings reduce vase life above the surface of the water.

I have CPM- 2 actually and neither look like that internet rose. My CPMs are orangey apricot , pale apricot and pale gold. The blooms get almst off white with age. She blooms in spray of 5 or 7 sometimes and her blooms are not nearly as big as abes. Abe blooms deep apricot and deep pink on the same plant as well as some paler. I have had a nearly orange sherbet icecream color bloom right beside a rosy pink and also those which are two tone like your photos (pink outside, orange center) in one bloom as well. The base of the blooms is yellow. Like your fathers. The blooms are generally as large as most hybrid teas roses. they are not pale blooms overall. If you have a rose that blooms med and small rosettes- averaging a large carnation size, which are apricot, or orangey leaning golden (not pink - tho maybe with a little rosy glow inside the cup) that fade almost off white- it's CPM. But- perhaps others will pipe in with different results.

May I respectfully point out that Austin roses are under patent and really shouldn't be traded this way. There are lots and lots of true antiques to trade that are not under patent. Many provide the same romance although perhaps not the distinctive Austin color palette. Look at the Pemberton hybrid musks, the noisettes and the hybrid perpetuals..there are great large flowered climbers and true tea roses..