Hi Markiz37! My method is basically just a hybridized version of what George Mander does. I tried his method first, then played around to see if I could get better results. I'll try to civer it here again, but please feel free to ask questions if you do not understand. I actually emailed George about 5 times to get clarification of what he was doing before I started playing with different methods. First and most important - get some coconut coir. This is the major difference between mine and Georges' method. I find coir to be the best rooting medium available. Once you have that, the rest is easy. You'll need the following; Rubbermaid dishpan. Mine measures about 11"x 14"x 5". You'll place containers in here. Next, find some small containers. I use 2 3/4 inch by 6 inch deep containers. That would be 7 cent X 15.25 cent for the Alberta crowd. Next, go to a fabric store a get 1 meter of elastic, like you would get for clothing. It is usually white in color. Next, go to a hardware or paint store and grab a roll of 2 mil thick clear plastic. You'll also need a CHEAP florescent light fixture and bulbs while you are there. The fixtures are about $10 for a 4 foot type. They take two bulbs for each fixture. Again, cheap is good here. Last, you'll need rooting hormone. You might want to start out with what your local gardening center sells. I use Rhizopon AA#3 powder, but that can be expensive if you are just starting out. Now you can make your cuttings. I like to really would the cuttings and then stick in hormone. There have been studies done showing that cuttings that are wounded root more easily than those that were just cut at 45 degree angle. After dipping in hormone, place in pot. When you are finished, place all containers in dishpan and spray leaves with water. Then cover with the 2 mil plastic. Use the elastic to keep plastic in place. A staple gun works well for this. Now place dishpan directly under the lights. I place as close to the lights as I can without actually touching the fixture. You can also use bottom heat, but keep the temp below 75 degrees (24 c). Leave alone for a few weeks, and then lift plastic and spray leaves. I usually start to see roots also now. Cover and check weekly. Here is the link to the George mader site. Here is a link that might be useful: George Mander Roses of Excellence

Hi lauriescreams, I've used Hartwood Rose's method (http://hartwoodroses.blogspot.com/2013/05/how-to-root-roses-from-cuttings.html) with some success. I found that keeping the prepared cuttings outside in the shade provided greater success. I got a cutting from my brother-in-law in mid-June and just 2 weeks ago it showed some growth (that's 10 weeks!). I had it indoors for probably 6 weeks and once I put it outside it started to spring new growth. With the bottle top on, I only sprayed water inside two or three times over the 10 weeks as the condensation stayed pretty consistent the whole time the top was on it (the premise is to keep the cane moist as it has no roots without keeping the soil so wet the bottom of the cane rots). After a couple of weeks of letting the growth take off, I took the bottle screw top off keeping it in the shade. I then took the soda bottle top off for a week in the shade, and began slowing acclimating it to direct sunlight. It got a bit fried due to one day of neglect, but I'm hoping to still salvage it (poor thing). I asked Hartwood about nutrients during the cutting stage and the answer was no. I suppose we really want to give the cutting time to just grow roots so that it can eventually take in nutrients. How moist will the cane stay in your greenhouse? If you're unsure, some kind of plastic tent or the soda bottle top may work a bit better - but perhaps put it outside the greenhouse if it's hot in there. That's cool you have a greenhouse.

Florists roses are grown in a greenhouse. They are then cut into a bundle , packaged and shipped to a nursery or a florist As you can see they start off in a different way then a gardeners rose. When they get to the florist, they are cut back and placed in a cooler. They may be in the cooler for a week, until someone buys them or a design is made. More handling for the poor rose. Finally when a customers gets the roses, they have gone through a lot. That is usually the main reason florists roses don't last a long time in the warmth of the house. They also don't have a fragrance because the petals are bred much thicker than any of the garden types so the roses can stand all the handling and packaging they go through. So to root a florist rose, it will be easier if the roe has been a vigorous grower. If it was a weaker grower, then it is not your fault it won't make roots. Take about 5 cuts and do them all in a different way. Try rooting in florist oasis, potatoes, plain vermiculite etc Place each cutting in a large clear pop bottle to keep it moist.This helps to see if you are getting a fungus or if the roots are starting. When you see roots starting unscrew the top. Let's see if this works. https://buffalo-niagaragardening.com/2013/10/15/grow-rose-bush-from-wedding-bouquet-or-use-any-roses-you-get-from-the-florist/

I ordered Hocus Pocus from Carlton's in the early to mid 2000's. Great, but almost immediately reverted to Black Beauty (its sport parent). It is a notoriously unstable sport. So a friend and I decided to try to root florist stems of Hocus Pocus. I bought 3 stems from a local florist, and we divided each into two parts, and I think we got 5 out of 6 to root. Highly successful. I still have three of my original Hocus Pocus/Black Beauties from that rooting episode or from Carlton's (I'd have to check my database on who is from who). Interesting is that at some point, I had a branch of Frisco, the original sport parent (a pure yellow rose) show up on one of them. Anyway, if you're not interested in the weird Hocus Pocus story, I had great success rooting florist roses.