Fertilizing: your success and why organics?
strawchicago z5
10 years ago
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strawchicago z5
10 years agostrawchicago z5
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Jobes Organics Vegetable and Tomato Fertilizer Help
Comments (26)I am not sure where you are getting your info from but it is not precisely correct. "In general, fertilizers formulated for flowering and fruiting plants would contain amounts of nitrogen less than or equal to the amounts of phosphorus (i.e. 10-10-10 or 5-10-15) This is because phosphorus encourages flowering and fruiting. Too much nitrogen will stimulate leafy green growth at the expense of flowers and fruit production. (emphasis mine) Also, the recommendations are made for granular fertilizer formulations. These will generally supply nutrients to the plants for about 6-8 weeks. During periods of frequent rainfall or frequent irrigation, the nutrients can be leached out of the soil and fertilizer may need to be reapplied." "A common recommendation for vegetables is to apply 1 pound of a 10-10-10 fertilizer or 2 pounds of a 5-10-5 (or 5-10-10) fertilizer per 100 feet of row. The first number is the percentage by weight of nitrogen, the second the percentage by weight of phosphorus and the third number is the percentage by weight of potassium in the fertilizer product. Thus, 100 pounds of a 5-10-10 fertilizer contains 5 pounds of nitrogen, 10 pounds of phosphorus and 10 pounds of potassium. As already mentioned, applying nutrients not needed can cause problems with the vegetables you are growing. When an excess amount of nitrogen is applied to fruit crops such as tomatoes and squash, it is common to have all vines and no fruit. With corn, missing a nitrogen fertilizer application as the corn starts to tassel can result in poor ear production. When excessive amounts of nitrogen are applied to root crops such as turnip, carrot and parsnips, you may end up with many leaves and small roots." (emphasis mine) Both of these statements come directly form extension service publications, which were initially established to assist home gardeners. The same information will be contained in virtually any other vegetable growing resource. It is a widely accepted and common horticultural convention...See MoreJobes Organics Fertilizer Spikes
Comments (9)Dig in and learn more about your soil. A good, reliable soil test will help with soil pH and nutrient levels and lead you in what you may need, but a good healthy soil needs organic matter and these simple soil tests can help with that. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy....See MoreFertilizer plans for pots vs.. in-ground, rain & tap, own-root & graft
Comments (16)High nitrogen can hurt root and flowering ability in cotoneaster plant. See excerpt from below link: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0304423881900649 " Although root growth was not increased by either Nitrogen or Phosphorus, high N levels inhibited root growth." More link to show that too much phosphorus can hurt root & flowering: https://laidbackgardener.wordpress.com/2016/05/18/the-myth-of-starter-fertilizers/ "further studies showed that large quantities of phosphorous were not necessary for rooting. Yes, the soil must contain a small amount of phosphorus in order to stimulate rooting… but that’s also true of any other nutrient. If the soil totally lacks nitrogen, zinc or iron, that too will hamper rooting. In fact, plants actually root poorly in soils excessively rich in phosphorous. You’re far more likely to kill plant roots with 10-52-10 fertilizer than to stimulate their growth. " http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/3788/ " When plants are grown in low phosphorus environments they emit organic acids from their root tips. These acids allow mycorrhizal fungi to penetrate the roots and form the networks that assist roots in absorbing water and nutrients. If the phosphorus levels are too high the roots do not emit the acid and the mycorrhizal networks do not form. This forces the plant to put more effort into root growth to compensate for the lack of mycorrhizae." U. of Colorado Extension has excellent info. on Organic fertilizers: "recent CSU research has shown that phosphorus from bone meal at NPK 3-15-0 is only available to plants in soils that have a pH below 7.0." On rock phosphate: Recent CSU research results concluded that no rock P (regardless of mesh size) is available for plant use unless the soil pH is below 7.0. http://www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/gardennotes/234.html According to CSU, Kelp powder has NPK of 1-0-4, decent potassium, plus trace elements, only need 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon per gallon, due to its high salt. **** From Straw: I tested bone-meal many times, with negative result in my soil pH near 8. 1) killed over a dozen geraniums by topping with bone-meal in hot summer .. that burnt their roots, but their colors were vivid at first. 2) put bone-meal in the planting hole of Sharifa Asma, the color DID NOT deepen, but really wimpy root, plus the soil got hardened. 3) Killed a $30 gallica rose gifted by a friend with bone-meal in the planting hole. 4) Made Crimson glory really wimpy by putting bone meal in the planting hole. 5) Made wimpy Yves-pink-seedling into a Black-spot fest by moving it, then put bone-meal in the planting hole. CONCLUSION: phosphorus is best in small amount as in 1/10 of potassium in rose-tissue analysis done by U. of CA at Davis. Phosphorus is best AS soluble, as in leaves, manure. Chicken manure at NPK 5-3-2 has plenty of phosphorus, plus trace elements zinc, copper, and boron....See MoreBrian read this....About your trees and your success
Comments (21)Brian..Oh my God..Seems to be you do everything right, even Sugar has the whitest fir and the cleanest eyes! What the heck do you feed him, Miracle Grow..?lol Seriously, that coat of fir looks so soft and cuddly and clean! A diamond in the rough buddy..I never saw a dog of that sport look so clean..They usually have a problem with black fir around the eyes if they don't get the right nutrition..You are doing a mighty job buddy! Well I did say everything right, but you fail when it comes to eating sloppy Joe bud..ha Listen, I would kill for a three hour thunderstorm. I can't even get a ten minute one. It's been three years..The deforestation is really doing damage and they are just now admitting it. We are turning into another desert..It's scary. You say you need work between the shoulders..I am all your pal and I won't even charge you..I'll just trade you for one of your trees..lool It was 55 all day here because the front never moved northward until about 3..Then it popped up twenty degrees in a half hour..lol Now it's warm here..60's tonight)))) I love it. You should see how all my trees are loving it and my plants in the yard..Every tree is still outside Brian..I thin after after this weekend that's it...50's and 30's by night for days on end it seems..Arg! Brian, thank you for asking about Mom..She's had a tough day and she can't believe how many here care about her..What a great bunch of beautiful human beings here, including Sugar of course....We need that... I hope you are wrong about this winter..I don't want to spend so many days worried about the heaters going out due to a circuit breaker or storm..It's the most stressful thing for me keeping things in my greenhouse. Every single day it drops well below freezing, I have to keep a thermometer close to my bed for when I wake up or keep calling my home to see what the temps is..My Mother is my watch dog. Sugar must love sitting in there with you buddy> Give him and yourself a hug for me will you? By the way, soil mix question?? Do you have to amend your mix at all? And do you ever over pot or pot just one size up from the root ball? Thanks bud...See Moreseaweed0212
10 years agostrawchicago z5
10 years agostrawchicago z5
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10 years agoJessicaBe
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