Appreciate the info. Dave - Since I have 3 bottles of the Mango Pineapple, I will leave one fresh, freeze one and experiment with one. Whey you say not nearly enough liquid, are you suggesting anything in particular? Vinegar/Lime Juice? Water? Fruit Juice? Come to think of it, the recipe actually did call for a 15 oz can of pineapple rings in juice. I used 15 oz fresh pineapple with no added juice, so that would explain some it. The OP of the recipe even said his turned out thick using the pineapple rings in juice. If I dump one bottle into a sauce pan and mix additional juice, bring to boil and rebottle, would that present any problems? I'm assuming not since it has only been bottled for 24 hours at this point and I would still plan on using within 30 days.

Hope you don't mind if I just C&P an answer from one of the previous discussions here on siphoning and its causes. NCHFP has a good table on the causes of siphoning/loss of liquid that may help (Carol linked that). One of the main causes is skipping the 10 min wait between removing the weight and removing the lid. Did you do that? You also want to wait several more min after removing the lid before removing the jars. Adjusting the heat source too much is also a common cause. Better to let it run a little high than to adjust too much trying to keep it pegged. Also check out the NCHFP How-To Use a Pressure Canner guide for step-by step instructions. Canner manuals are usually outdated on this info. Dave PS: NCHFP is also a better source of recipes as all there are tested and approved. Some the recipes at the source you used are not.

Well you are right that it did need some fertilizer since you can't grow in pots without some supplemental fertilizers. Just not so much. :) While it does show a great deal of nitrogen burn on the leaves in the photos it can recover as you can easily flush a lot of the excess fertilizer out of the container with plain water. You'll lose a lot of the severely damaged leaves but you should see some new growth in 7-10 days and hopefully get some fruit from your second bloom period (the first blooms will mostly be dropped). So i'd recommend 1 good flushing of water until it runs out the bottom of the pot. Then normal watering as needed for the next 2 weeks and no more fertilizer until after new leaf growth begins to develop well. Then dilute the MG and use it once every 7-10 days max. How much you need to dilute it depends on size of the container and, since MG comes in several different rated formulations, the N-P-K rating on your box? 1/4 strength is safe and you might get away with 1/2 strength depending on which product you have. The instructions on the box apply to in-ground plants, not containers. Hope this helps. Dave

"The leaves are quite small too...are they in full sun? ...but the plants should be growing nicely if all other conditions are met..." There's an enormous difference between your zones 2 and the OP's zone 9, and one of those is that high heat can cause a chunky stocky indeterminate to get all wonky thin. The plant can also have a hard time recovering from that state when the weather breaks cool after sustained high heat. Maybe it's just emaciation. Maybe this can be eased by changes in watering/shading/fertilizing. Maybe not, I dunno, but it also tends to produce weeny rooted clones. Again, this happens only to some people in super hot/dry areas. Right now I have one Sweet 100 that's over-summered, a few more that were layered from it in the dirt, a couple that were rooted in water from cuttings from it, and some more that were grown from seed started in July. The mama plant is one sick puppy (that may or may not pull through fruit-wise), the outdoor clones are skinny, the seeded starts are chunky, all except mama are flowering, and there's not a hint of fruit in sight. Hey, it's an experiment and the dirt's not being used otherwise, but the point is that sustained heat, lack of fundamental soil moisture, and very dry air can smack tomato plants silly.