I'm still on the low end of the learning curve, but basal or sucker, what really is the difference(I think I know there is a difference) concerning a break? In any case, one of my rooted roses put out a sucker about a foot away from the parent plant which I was happy to see but maybe in August last year, winter closing in, got no more than 2' tall before winter came. I didn't try to winter protect any of my roses this year, but was least worried about the ones I rooted from local stock because they tend to be much more hardy than ones I've purchased and by observing them in situ elsewhere. This spring, the sucker was turning black/dark, no doubt from winter, so I pruned it back to healthy cane which left just a little bit. Then I looked and looked for evidence that it was making a comeback, and could have missed it, but saw nothing. Now the last day or so I looked again, and it has sprouted a lot of new leaves but hugging the ground, need to mark it so it won't get mowed over. I'd say there is hope for your basal especially this early. It might take awhile. And I'm excited tonight because I was showing my sister where I'm at with some of this, and my little Harison has put out its first sucker/basal, fairly close to the mother plant, like a couple inches or so. I'm thrilled, but they just might eventually take over; I'm aware of that.

Keep in mind that what does new basil breaks in, in our climate area is cold wind more than cold temps. Yes, new basil breaks do contain more water which can freeze and burst but if as Ann suggests the pot is moved in and out you might pull this off. I would suggest. 1) If you have not already stop all feeding of general fertilizers 2) Find a fertilizer designed to promote root growth only which will also help "shut" the rose down 3) There is a product called Peter Beales says Goodnight Roses which is formulated to do just that. As a disclaimer we helped develop it and get a portion of sales. But we also use it. But mostly keep the rose out of the cold winds. We have roses in cold frames without artificial heat and while the temps inside the frames might get to 22 degrees we experience little to no damage because wind cannot get in there. If you do plant it mulching with leaves is not a bad idea. Up north they will surround roses with a chicken wire cage and then pile leaves inside to insulate the rose. Paul

Well whaddya know - Kim you always find a way to bring order out of the rose chaos out there. I rarely pay as much attention as I should to common heritage among roses, but the Charles Mallerin factor would make sense in both these reds. At least they're more hardy for me than the original Charles Mallerin - I tried that one at least 3 times in successively better spots and it was an immediate death in our winters every time, as have been most direct Mallerin roses I'm afraid. At least Uncle Joe is resolutely hardy, just stubborn. Glad I put him at the back of the bed, and he rises above the teas in that area like a stern guardian of all those fussy, frothy ladies. They seem to form enough of a skirt around him, and he's MUCH too dignified at the suggestion of anything like a skirt around his solitary Cane of Dignity. Zack - I've often wondered what it would look like to have a combined planting of one-cane wonders next to each other. I'm picturing something like a bamboo forest of single rose canes with a single rose at the top of them (at least in the case of my Mr. Lincoln). It would certainly have novelty to recommend it, particularly if they all grew to the same heights, and I like the idea of letting them duke it out. In my yard, I'm not going to spend the extra garden space on multiples of roses that don't want to branch out, since I'd rather have them like pedestals among more full roses (like Uncle Joe the Overseer of Hussy Teas). Michael, I totally agree about Savoy Hotel. It's almost always cane hardy for me, but last winter I had to prune it back to about 6" on a single substantial base cane. I was worried that I might lose that last cane or that it would be a wimpy growth for a season, but not to worry. Savoy Hotel is a trooper for branching out nicely, and it's one of my top 10 steady bloomers (maybe even top 5) with gorgeous deep baby pink blooms that last extremely well. I didn't take any pictures of her this spring because I took so durned many last spring, but she was basically back to this state by late June this year even after pruning mostly to the ground. Gotta love her! Cynthia

Richard, of all the roses I have grown in my lifetime, I have never grown a one cane wonder. If I had a rose that didn't perform well right out of the chute, I brought out the shovel. I have never wasted my time on a rose that was not up to my standards. Some roses do well in some soil and areas of the country, others do not. In my small city, we have clay, rocks, river bottom and loam, all in different areas (I'm the fortunate loam lady). Others are just better plants. My point is, there are reasons roses become one cane wonders and some of it has to do with the plant before it ever gets to your house. Some roses are just weak to begin with. You can dump whatever is supposed to promote basal breaks on that rose forever, and it will not respond. The rose on the left in my photo in my post above has never been as good as the one in the middle. Same rose, different plant. I have 10 of these Johann Strauss planted in this bed. I take all of my cuttings from the rose in the middle. It is my strongest, best specimen of the group. It was the biggest, strongest rose of all when I planted it, and that hasn't changed after 14 years. Even though some are own root, some are grafted... He is still the big heavy because he started out the big heavy. If you are in a cold zone and want care free roses, plant them deep. Rebecca