Roses I would grow are, mistakes or not, Mme. Plantier, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Quietness, Sombreuil, Blanc Double de Coubert, Clotilde Soupert and Pope John Paul II. I have been amazed at the number of blooms it has produced in this its first year. Plants usually take a very long time to establish here. Other plants that I must have include; Anemone japonica 'Honrine Jobert' and 'Whirlwind' (whites), 'Prinz Heinrich' (rose) as well a few pinks, Brunnera 'Jack Frost' (the jury is still out for 'Looking Glass' although I can already tell that it is not as strong a grower), box, yew, holly, Vinca minor, Daphne odora marginata, Nandina domestica 'Ivory Queen' (pale yellow berries), Narcissus in quantity (it is one of those things one can never have too much of), Lycoris squamigera, Scilla siberica (love that cobalt blue), Eranthis hiemalis, Crocus (both Fall and Spring blooming), Cyclamen, Colchicum, Lilium, Paeonia, Helleborus niger and its hybrids. I am sure that I have forgotten something but this is a good starter list. I have done fairly well with hedges and trees for structure but I would focus more on shrub compositions, especially evergreens, both broadleaved and needled, although those compositions must include deciduous plants or the effect becomes too ponderous. A lot is written about plant composition but it is usually directed at the relationship of perennials with each other. More emphasis should be placed on shrubs. They form a satisfying year round structure for the garden. Perennials are the bling. Shrubs can be interesting with flowers and berries as well as foliage and are definitely less labor intensive. Cath

I can find quite a bit of the wild stuff, but certainly couldn't afford to send that much. Chicory, plantain, fireweed, Purslane, wood sorrel, Solomon's seal (false?), some type of gooseberry (wild ones, when I go to Idaho) Jerusalem artichoke, red alder, skunk cabbage--maybe, kinnikinnick, MAYBE serviceberry, wild ginger (certainly not 40 of them, though), possibly Oregon grape, bedstraw, burdock, not sure on monkeyflower, cascara, snowberry, all heal, yarrow, yellow violets, Virginia creeper, maybe nuphar polysepalus, wild strawberries (fragaria virginiana and chiloensis).

You might want to try mail order. I ordered a half dozen Mahonia aquifolium from Burnt Ridge Nursery (Onalaska, WA) a few years ago. They were about 2-2.5' tall and were about $6 each. They ship bareroot, which saves on shipping costs but is not that great for the plant. Mine took a while to get over the transplant shock, but are doing fine now. The stock quality of my order was decent.

They'll probably be OK. I had a couple of OG's that loooked dead. They were exposed to cold and wind for most of the winter, and they lost many leaves. They grew back, however. For me, OG doesn't do as well in winter sun than when the plants are shaded - mostly under a big snow pile. Most times OG is a semi-shade plant, but it does grow in full sun. However, the full-sun plants won't have evergreen leaves. (They can get brown and toasted). My full-shade OGs are truly evergreen. I wouldn't worry about the winter scalding. The only other thing that might be a problem is if there were a lot of de-icing pellets placed on your sidewalk. If the de-icing stuff is mixed in with shoveled snow and put on the plants, the leaves will suffer. Another factor could be transplanting. For me, it takes a full growing season for OG to really establish itself. The first season it looks OK, but kind of puny. I suspect all of its energy is going toward root production since OG is spreading/suckering groundcover.