Not sure where your son lives, Carol, but I'm in Northern California (not too far from Nancy) and I don't remember the last time I felt an earthquake. For sure not in the 7 years I've been in this house. Last one was probably 10 years ago, centered around Glen Ellen I think. Didn't knock anything over. Just tilted a picture or two on the wall. Since then, though, not even the slightest shake. And in the meantime, they keep retrofitting everything, so hopefully if/when the "big one" does hit in my lifetime, it won't be devastating. My joke about earthquakes vs tornadoes and hurricanes is, at least after an earthquake, I still know where all my stuff is. LOL I feel bad for the folks who have to deal with a ruined garden (among other things) right in the middle of summer. As someone who also works in insurance, I'm hoping we have another quiet hurricane season like we did last year.

Now is the best time for you to add compost to your soil. It takes some time for the soil bacteria to work on that compost to make what is in it available to your plants so if you waited until spring what you planted after that would not, necessarily, benefit from that compost since the nutrients would not be available for some time. Just be sure you have a good mulch on that garden soil for the winter because that mulch will aid in keeping the soil warmer longer, retain soil moisture, and prevent erosion of your soil.

Not sure if as a new gardener you know that rhubarb, asparagus and strawberries are perennials and should not be pulled up next spring. Cut back the old dead growth, add some compost and be prepared to harvest in the late spring. I suggest you read up about these specific plants by searching for info online for each. Dill and basil are annuals. Dill most likely self seeded so you will have more plants than you need germinating in the spring. Check online to see what seedlings look like and keep the amount you think you need and pull up the rest. Error on the side of more than you want. It is easy to pull up and you can pull more out later if you find there is too much. If you want basil it will need to be replanted from either seed or starter plants. Don't know what other herbs you have but many of them are perennials so look for info about those herbs you know you have in the garden already. Common perennial herbs are thyme, oregano, mint, tarragon, maybe lemon verbena in your area. Others have given good advice. Check your state's extension service online sites for starting a vegetable garden. Many local nurseries may have info sheets or online info that is related to your area. Winter is also a good time to read about vegetable gardens on the vegetable gardening forum and tomato forum, and pepper forum. Use the search boxes to find info about "starting a new vegetable garden" and other subjects of interest. If the weeds went to seed you will find weeds popping up for years. Good advice to mulch to help keep them from germinating and/or growing. Next year if you can't keep up with the weeds, at least cut off the flowers/seed heads so they don't self seed. And don't add them to the compost pile unless you are sure it heats up enough to kill the seeds. Beans are great easy vegetables. Bush beans will give you a couple of weeks of beans per planting. Some will plant seeds a couple of times a few weeks apart to have a continuing supply of beans. I prefer to grow pole beans which start a bit later but continue to produce until frost. Easier for me to pick also. Sometimes bean seeds rot in the soil if it is a very wet spring and will need to be replanted. I also cover the seeded area with a cage made of folded over chicken wire to keep squirrels and other critters from digging up the young bean seedlings. The cage can be removed later or just let the beans grow up through it. Lettuce, peas and spinach and other cold season vegetables can be seeded/planted as soon as the soil is workable so get out and clear at least enough space for them as soon as you can this spring. Tomato and beans are warm season crops and aren't seeded/planted until the soil is warm, late spring, so you can clear that part of the garden a bit later. I expect that your dream of "sitting on my porch trimming gr. beans" will be reality this summer.

acauley, you've now spent some time thinking this through (BTW, I used to have poor well water - a lot of iron so I understand why you have a filter!), and it seems like you've come up with the best solution. I don't consider a dedicated tap as 'bling' if this is something you use daily and need (such as yourself) and I would definitely want hot and cold at the prep (I too thought only cold at the prep until I gave it thought). I see no problems with putting them at 10 and 2. I think I'd rather have the faucet at 12 to go directly in the drain with the tap offset in a square sink, but then again, this might restrict the swivel of some faucet necks, particularly in a round sink. So 10 and 2 are probably best in your solution. Also, have you considered putting in a disposal at your prep? Even if you compost, they are pretty indispensable for veggie prep. Below are 2 photos to give examples of what yours might look like: Showing faucet and I assume a tap at about 10 and 2... I think this looks rather nice Showing faucet at 12 with sprayer (like a tap kinda!) offset - if that's a swivel faucet neck looks like it'd bump into a tall tap dispenser which would create a problem I wish you luck in your reno!