Thanks for the replies. I agree it would be really silly to build the chimney if you couldn't burn wood. Apparently, the last people who lived here never used the fireplace (according to the neighbors). They did leave behind a cord of wood though. It seems they thought you couldn't use wood either. I thought about leaving the ceramic logsjust to make it easier to switch between ambient fire (gas) and heat producing flame (wood). Now that you mention it, it would look strange. I think Xanndra hit the nail of the head. I did a Google for gas starters and they look nothing like to large tray type set up we have. I guess we'll have the chimney folks out to give us an esitmate on a good cleaning and retrofit. Thanks again. BTW, I got in a flurry since the furnance went out and we have to wait a couple of days for a repairman. It's not below freezing just yet, but the kids and dog aren't at all happy. The gas fire does nothing but send hot, expensive air up the chimney. We were looking forward to an actual warm fire.

I've framed hundreds of wood chimneys, and honestly not sure the code on insulating the walls. I would say, the walls (inside the chimney) get insulated, then 5/8's rock hung for fire proofing. Is there anyway you can see behind your fireplace? My guess is it has a marble surround. If so, then it will be hard to see behind. There may be a hole on the side of the fireplace that you can get a small webcam in. If you can, try to see if the walls have insulation. If there is no insulation in the walls, thats another problem. The easiest thing would be to get an insulated cover/shield for the fireplace. Just move it when you want a fire. Also there is a pan at 8' for fire proofing. The problem is, if the pipe installer put the pipe in before the in insulation guys got there; it's hard for the insulation guy to get to the outside walls, because there's not enough room. Above 8' is not that big a deal because the wall between the chimney and house is insulated. The only problem I could see, is if the cold air is pulling down into the house.

There are some Swedish/European manufactures that have some very nice small wall mounted wood burning stoves. Modern combustion via a liner through the old chimney. I've seen them with both modern and classic looks to them. I'll have to google around for some links.

Greg here from Hansen Wholesale, where @tigerdunes purchased his ventless logs. I am also the one who has published all of the details at the Hansen Wholesale website regarding the pros and cons and differences between vented and ventless gas logs. Truth is, there are many considerations and we handle each case separately when dealing with our customers. In some cases, ventless makes sense, but in most cases vented gas logs are the best choice. The original thread here is 3 years old, but as I read the entire thread there is some confusion about welding the damper open when installing a direct vent gas log. I think Anapolitan may have confused "Vented" gas logs with a "Direct Vent Insert". There are no "Direct Vent Gas Logs". Direct vent refers to sealed metal box that you insert into the fireplace. There are two ducts that get run up the chimney with a special chimney cap installed at the top. One vent draws outside air down the chimney for combustion while the other is used for exhaust. It is an air tight sealed unit. Because there are 2 ducts, the damper would have to be propped open to feed the ducts up the chimney. Vented gas logs require that the damper is open when they are burning. Some municipalities may require you to weld the damper open when using a vented gas log. The reason vented logs need the damper open is because they burn more like real wood where they intentionally do not completely burn the gas. This creates a wafty yellow flame very much like real wood. It also produces Carbon Monoxide (lethal gas), Carbon Dioxide, Water Vapor and Soot. Hence the reason the damper needs to be open. With the damper open, most of the heat goes up the flue. Because ventless logs burn the gas completely, at least in an ideal situation, the byproducts are Carbon Dioxide and Water Vapor, neither of which present a health issue when used in moderation. Since the damper is closed, 99.99% of the heat produced by burning the gas will come into the room, so ventless gas logs produce a LOT of heat, sometimes too much. The R. H. Peterson ventless gas logs are rated as both vented and ventless. Technically, if they are intended to be used as vented logs the damper must be propped open permanently, but most people ignore that. The best solution to the issue of leaving the damper open all the time is to add a glass door to the fireplace so you can close the doors when the fire is off. Anyways, I have much more detail on our website and in the heads of our gas log experts. Anyone reading this may want to talk to us directly because each case really does need to be handled on an individual basis. Profided by: Greg Tillotson Hansen Wholesale: Gas Logs and Fireplace Doors Feel free to email me directly. If you do, be sure to include some pictures of your fireplace along with the inside dimensions: gregt@hansenwholesale.com P.S. If this comes through all in bold, I tried turning the bold off, but it wouldn't listen.