You can root green ones easiest if you do them like a small tip cutting and make a little humidity dome for them. I use the tall take out chinese soup clear container. Put perlite in the bottom few inches with holes in the lid and the bottom and water it well then put the lid on and watch for roots. When you start seeing them crack the lid open a little more each day until its off then you can transfer it to a little pot. You can use the little mini greenhouse things too but you might want to do it in a bright window if its really hot outside or at least in the shade. If they are pretty firm and not wimpy green you won't need to lid but use rooting hormone on the green ones. Its not too late to start seeds as long as you can keep them growing over the winter the first year.

Here's an update so far. I tried an experiment of putting the callused cuttings into different pots of the same well-draining soil mix. One pot has been treated the same as some Crassula perforata I am trying to propagate after accidentally breaking the head off the stem -- I placed the cuttings in the soil, left it alone for several days, and then misted them. The other pot has not been misted at all. The Faucaria cuttings that were misted immediately developed the same soft rot on their lower leaves, so I threw them away. (Meanwhile, the Crassula heads have developed small roots.) The Faucaria cuttings that were not misted are still green and firm, but (unsurprisingly) no roots have begun developing.

The slime is pretty common in water rooting, I think it's called mucky film or something quaint like that but like everyone has said, just rinse it off every few days when you change the water. I've had great success with rooting in water, I've had some spectacular fails too. The big game changer for me was actually changing the water and rinsing the film off. I didn't do it for years and easily 75% of my plants trying to root in water rotted. I'm currently experimenting with cuttings from an ancient hearty pothos using a rooting hormone in water. Seems a bit counterintuitive but it appears to be working nicely and almost halved the time it normally takes for the nodes to root out.

Hi, Ann ... Please visit the adenium forum when you get a chance. Since you are the original poster, I'll answer you here. If you sowed 19 seeds and they all germinated, that is an outstanding germination rate. The seedlings look healthy ... Congratulations! Regarding the 3 that may be dying ... I believe what I see is 2 seedlings with damaged shriveled tips. Usually, what causes this is pulling on the seed casings or "hats" ... I have just killed one doing just that. It's best to defer from this practice. The casings will eventually fall off on their own. Once the tip is damaged, the seedling cannot produce leaves for photosynthesis and will begin to lose color & die. The white seedling is an albino and will die for the same reason. Enjoy your remaining seedlings. I hope you get a nice variety of blooms. The yogurt cups will keep them for 3 months, after which you can pot up to 3-4" pots. The above photo was to show them in their yogurt cups ... they get cuter & fatter. Here are the same seedlings at 4 months old. Some of my vintage german dolls wanted to say hello: - Maria Elena