I think the critical thing to understand is that fertilizer is not needed for healthy growth in soil that is well conditioned through years of organic inputs. The key points to focus on is that most soils require years of organic inputs and we aren't talking about a light dusting with compost either. We are talking about modifying the soil so around 30+ percent is organic matter. We also aren't talking about growing award winning giant pumpkins in that soil, we are talking about plants that grow healthy and reasonably. Most trees, shrubs and perennials grow well in soils with low to moderate fertility and compost alone is more than capable of doing the job. Annuals grown for effect whether it be an ornamental flower or high yielding veggy will almost always benefit from understanding the plant's growth cycle and environmental requirements for not just good, healthy growth, but optimal yields and then meeting them. Some perennial plants grown for fruit also qualify. If one wants a nice looking yard full of healthy plants that do well, compost alone is sufficient. If one wants a 5lb tomato or a 1000# + pumpkin then one best start researching the plant's nutrient requirements and fertilizers that will optimally meet them.

I think a lot depends on your soil and the amount of time, money and effort you want to expend on fertilizing. Some rosarians make their own organic mixes, some swear by nothing more than Miracle Gro. In my alkaline clay soil, semi-organic garden, I use Mills Magic or a locally packaged organic, called Miller's Blue Label made with dried poultry waste. It's tough to tell whether one is better than the other but MM is sold through a local rose society and the MBL is a local product. I also use another locally packaged product sold through a nursery that isn't organic but it only takes a 1/4 cup per 3ft of bush so it's economical and fast-acting so I use it for the spring feeding frenzy. Another product I really like is that Miracle Gro Easy Feed (or some-such) that screws into a hose-end sprayer harness. That stuff is just WAY too easy to use when 25% of your roses have to be hand-watered anyway. Since we don't fertilize during June through September, I put down a little Osmacote in early June. No matter where you are or what you use, though, make sure you water the soil thoroughly before and after using any fertilizer or amendment. I don't advocate using a sytemic rose food ever. There's something about applying toxic chemicals above the water table that makes me shudder.

Fertilizer spikes are generally considered an extremely inefficient delivery method for applying fertilizer. Ideally, fertilizer should be applied evenly throughout the root system (or across the top of the root spread) rather than concentrated in a specific area. The feeder roots of plants - the ones responsible for accessing and absorbing soil nutrients - are located just below the soil surface but across the extent of the full root spread. A liquid fertilizer, granuals spread evenly across this area or a good mulch of compost is the best way to maximize your fertilization and ensure plants are receiving the nutrients they require.

For in-ground, once or twice a year, I till in a good 2-3 inches of compost with a scattering of cottonseed(or feather), bone, and kelp meals, and just a tad of fast acting gypsum(for the clay and early Ca, while the bone breaks down). Every month or 2, I'll give a dose of fish ferts and/or compost tea. Midway through the season, I'll add a bit more each of the meals. They may not help for THIS crop, but it's a perpetual thing for when I start to pull the plants, retill, and plant my winter veggies. I do the same thing with my barrels. Refresh each year with more compost, maybe some more peat and perlite, and the meals. After about 4 years, it's pretty broken down(not so porous) and it goes into the garden.soil. Sometimes, I'll add a few TB of 15-30-15 right after the 1st big harvest. But, I have found it really isn't necessary -- I'm always drowning in peppers....lol For my #15 pots and smaller, I use 5-1-1. So, CRF's and fast-acting gypsum(Ca) when making, and about 6 months later, more CRF's. Weekly half doses of MG All-purpose and some epsom salts for the Mg. Kevin