Contrary to what most "lawn experts" tell you dethatching is not necessary unless the thatch is more then 1/2 inch thick, and if the thatch is that thick there is a soil problem that needs to be addressed because the Soil Food Web is unable to function well. Whether grubs are a problem depends on the population, 5 or fewer per square foot are not a problem while 10 or more per square foot will be. In a good, healthy soil grubs will be kept under control by predators that will not be present in a sick soil. Recycling your grass clippings can help because they can supply 1/2 the needed 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet lawns need each year. Your soil does need organic matter which will help retain necessary mositure, as well as provide a food source for the Soil Food Web that will feed the grass you want to grow. Start by contacting the local office of your Washington State University Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what your soils pH and base nutrient levels are. These simple soil tests may also be of some help in getting your soil into that good, helathy condition needed to grow a strong and healthy garden. Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Here is a link that might be useful: WSU CES

My MOSAIC BIBLE: 300+ Mosaic Tips, Techniques, Templates and Trade Secrets by Bonnie Fitzgerald I checked out this book at my local library, and immediately knew that this was a fantastic (everything you ever wanted to know about... ) book on Mosaics, so I ordered a copy from the Internet. Before I even start a mosaic project now, I review the information about surfaces, adhesives, indoor vs. outdoor, grouts... . Several years ago, I visited my son in Northern Virginia. And, knowing that Bonnie Fitzgerald was from this area, I contacted her via email before my trip. She was teaching a Children's Mosaic Class, and invited me to stop by. What a wonderful experience; she is a very personable & talented mosaic artist. It was cool seeing the talent and excitement of the children, too, and talking with them about their mosaic projects! And, Bonnie signed my book! Check out the book 1st from your library, and see if you don't agree. (This is not an advertisement - I'm just a very satisfied customer!!!) Susan Griebel Rome City, IN

IMO, Wiring Simplified is about the best book for beginners. That's what got me started, and I still keep the latest edition around for reference. You used to be able to find it in any hardware store. For some reason it's not quite as widely sold now. (Maybe because the price has gone up a fair bit in the last few years.) However, just about all the bookstores have it, and Home Depot also sells it in their electrical departments. Don't skip the chapter on basic electrical principles.

girl wonder, some books I've found useful and enjoyed: Interior Design Master Class: 100 Lessons from America's Finest Designers on the Art of Decoration by Carl Dellatore: "Creating a library-worthy resource on design, the volume’s editor, Carl Dellatore, recruited one hundred top American interior designers to contribute essays on a particular aspect of design, interspersed with examples of their work. Useful for both aficionados and professionals, the volume reveals the meticulous and often heady process that goes into creating great interiors." There's a very good good write-up and interview with the author at the design blog Quintessence. Habitat: The Field Guide to Decorating by decorator Lauren Liess (who is basically self-taught, which is why she calls herself a decorator rather than an interior designer), who has a great blog (not updated much anymore) where she has explained her choices and decisions. Mary Gilliatt's Interior Design Course by Mary Gilliatt Domino: The Book of Decorating: A Room-by-Room Guide to Creating a Home That Makes You Happy by Deborah Needleman The Perfectly Imperfect Home: How to Decorate and Live Well by Deborah Needleman A few of the interior design books I've picked up in the past few years, which gave me a greater sense of appreciation for what interior designers and decorators do: The Interior Design Reference & Specification Book: Everything Interior Designers Need to Know Every Dayby Linda O'Shea, Chris Grimley, Mimi Love Interior Design Course: Principles, Practices, and Techniques for the Aspiring Designer by Tomris Tangaz Some earlier helpful threads in the GardenWeb Home Decorating forum: Where to go for "Home Decorating 101"? What's your favorite Interior Design Book?