Rooting hormones are a relatively inexpensive way to increase your chances. I can't see why you would want to avoid using them. I went the whole route. Bottom heat, a mist system on a timer, all under lath and shade cloth. Oh yes, and a rooting hormone. I successfully propagated hundreds of shrubs and trees. You should check out the GardenWeb Plant Propagation Forum. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/propa/ Mike Here is a link that might be useful: Plant propagation.

heaven4441 - thanks for the compliment! As to your concern, even planting in close proximity as I do, I have not had much root interaction between plants so I haven't noticed any apparent set back caused by this. My cuttings are usually planted 2-3 inches apart which is pretty close. Even things like butterfly bushes that quickly send out a large root clump don't spread too far out from the cutting within the first 2-3 weeks time which is usually when mine are ready to come out and be potted. If I left them a couple more weeks I probably would have problems with the roots growing into each other and causing extra stress on neighboring cuttings when I try to remove them. I actually use one of those hand tools that pry weeds up to gently and slowly lift my rooted cuttings out of the sand box. Some lift right out readily, others you have to get under it with the tool in one hand while gently pulling the cutting up by the stem with your other hand. I seem to lose very few roots to breakage doing it this way and most of the sand still remains in the box. You could also use a trowel but you'll be scooping up extra sand unnecessarily. If you transplant them out of the box in the morning before the heat sets in and get them potted right away and watered most cuttings don't seem to be phased at all. Obviously you can also pot in the evening. Some kinds of plants are a little more sensitive than others but even if they get a little wilty from the move they usually bounce back by the next day as long as the roots aren't exposed for very long before potting and once potted, you put them where they are protected from hot afternoon sun. The main concern I have with sticking cuttings so close together isn't the roots, but rather the potential to spread disease from one cutting to another if they touch. Airflow around each cutting is reduced the closer you plant them together which can encourage disease. I just try to be watchful of any diseased looking foliage and if things seem to be staying too damp for too long I adjust my misting timer accordingly. For most perennials and shrubs this hasn't been an issue except with some of the roses I propagate which are prone to black spot. Danielle

I live in zone 4 so what I often do is in the fall I drop the clematis in a trench dug along the wall and cover it up with soil. This gives the plant a step up in the spring. If I delay digging it up each node will send up a mini plant through the soil. At that point I cut as many as I want, scar the under side at the nodes, dust with growth powder and plant in a potting tray, sterilized, moistened soil. I then use a dry cleaning bag to create a mini greenhouse and place it in the shade and check periodically for soil moisture. (A translucent small storage box from Wal Mart would probably work just as well). Most will root and if they're green they're growing. A month or so later I'll plant them in an out of the way area and ignore them till next year. This method gives you lots of plants to work with and you're not babysitting a bunch of stems that are very delicate. The thing is that this is time intensive (two years to a respectable plant) and buying a plant is quicker gratification. But plants are like people, some are better looking and hardier than others. These are the ones I propagate. Someone will show up and admire your clematis. At that point you go to your patch, pot one up and present it to them. Or if you have a long chain link fence in two years you have a blooming hedge.

Hmmm. That's a good question! Do you have a place such as a well-lit garage where you could winter them, and try planting them in the spring when they're more established? I wish I had some experience with this myself. Good luck :) Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Avenue