Nevermind, I found out that for every 1 Inch you should leave it out for 1 Month.

cactusmcharris.... My NYC background has instilled a great deal of impatience into mt outlook on almost all things, especially now, that I just turned 62. I can't wait for nothing. If I strike out with one plant quest, i.e. Adeniums...I move on to the next...Cyphostemma juttae...both plants being equally ugly, fat blobs,...only one makes a pretty flower. : ) I'll still look for a good Adenium. This will be the first time for the Cypho. for me, and growing it can't be too much different than growing Adeniums. I wonder if it's a slow grower. I would have preferred to buy a larger-size plant, but I can't find sources. The succulent-cactus greenhouse at Wave Hill Garden, Riverdale, NY has a huge specimen of Cyphostemma juttae, and when I first saw the plant a few years back, I thought that the leaves looked like pieces of green plastic sitting on top of a huge, brown, lumpy caudex. Very curious. So, I was hooked, and now I just ordered seeds....but, I'm still looking for a larger plant. Thanks for the comments. Frank PS...does anyone on this forum sell off plants to make room for others? Contact me: fdvpiano@yahoo.com

For the sake of having fun with both sides of the issue, I'll play plastic pot advocate:-). Keep in mind I can only speak from my personal experience of growing tropicals in containers here in Oklahoma over the last 30 or so years. What works for you somewhere else in the world may trump anything I might say. All plastic pots is a stretch :-). I use the Rootmaker inc. plastic pot which probably is the best plastic pot in the world. The one gallon pot has 28 holes (actually 56 with 2 side by side) in it and it dries out faster than your clay pots. I've done side by side tests with a decent number of plants to see. The black plastic Rootmaker 1 with the predrilled holes all around the container dry out faster than a red clay pot of similar size in full sun. I grow almost exclusively in plastic. Big plants weigh too much on their own even without the clay pot. I will put some specimen Adenium down the road in very nice very shallow ceramic pots. If I want an adenium to develop a more shallow and wider root span, I'll take a 10 inch hanging basket (I have a bunch of used ones laying around) and drill 1/4 inch holes in it for faster drainage. The 20-30 holes will be on the bottom and on the sides maybe an 1/8 inch above where the bottom of the pot is. With bulb pans I dont bother. I can make a plastic pot drain much better and faster "easier" than I can modify a clay pot. A modified plastic pot can give you a good run for your money. I've got literally hundreds of clay pots I bought at a garage sale about 15 years ago that I don't use. As far as adeniums overpotted, no matter the pot make up, they will rot if grown in marginal soil. Crappy soil is crappy soil. A pot will not make the difference. Personally I think soil is the most important part of what we do with plants outside of care. Containers or container sizes are probably next. 3 years ago I skimped on soil with a bunch of adeniums because money was tight and I paid a huge price. Over half rotted and many were slow to recover. A few with nice blooms I rerooted after I lost most of the root system. I just don't loose adeniums with good soil. Never have and hopefully never will :-). I can put a nice adenium in crappy soil and kill it over the winter unless I'm totally focused on that plant and watch it very close. I can put a another nice adenium in a great soil mix and rarely have to focus as intensely on it as I do the one in crappy soil. Bad soils can hide rot problems sometimes until it's too late. Good soils with good care hide nothing. There's nothing to hide. randy

70F (around 21C?) will keep them satisfied. I've had 6-month old seedlings survive 16C daytime temps and 8C night temps. But it takes all spring and part of the summer for them to recover from the slowdown. To keep them growing in winter, they need intense light (T5HOs are your best investment but even T12s are good enough). But they also need to be warm. 26C is alright. If you have a T12 setup and place the plants within 2 inches of the bulbs, that will actually keep them warm enough to keep growing, albeit slowly. But 30C and above is optimal. If the seedlings are going to be braided, grafted or subjected to any other kind of disruption, they will definitely have to be at least 30C because cold temps make them slow down. If they are slowing down and trying to recover from shock at the same time, they might not win. Bottom-heating is the best solution, this is why I suggested parking the seedling tray on a radiator. Put it on magazines if too hot, or on metal tray if not hot enough.Or get a heating mat. Also, it takes at least a month out of the pot for seedlings to dehydrate enough to be bendy. Longer if it is larger and older. Pagan