One way to propagate the Draceana is to cut it off and stick the top down in the dirt, the canes will get fresh shoots and the cane in the dirt will root, it takes quite awhile to see any results so be patient. another way is to airlayer, I have never done this so am not sure what you do after you knick the cane and before you put the plastic baggie on the nick:) someone else may know on that. The only way I know how to propagate the Prayer is to divide the roots up, again someone else may know more on that. Your solid green heart shaped vine may be a heart shaped Philodenderon if the leaves are thin and soft:)

Yep, I'm still climbing the curve and likely will be for a long time, judging by your comment. I'm actually a much better photographer ( amateur ) than what the photos I posted allude to. There's only one good photo I ever posted to this GW Site. The most of them are just 'pictures' to convey visual support for my verbage. This dang digital camera is nice, but ... really has some serious limitations when it comes to getting artistic. I have a Minolta XE-7 SLR that I use when I want to do some art. And additionally, I use Photoshop 7.0 to manipulate what I 'scan' in from negatives. The digital camera allows me to skip the negative development, but there is very little control over exposure, depth of field and no interchangable lenses. The digital only give one the ability to get instant photos, kinda like the polaroids did back in their hey day. The best one can do is frame the shot and hope the internal electronics handles the light well enough to get a decent pic. I seriously need to get something better like an EOS. But thanks for you comments. Good News! I just affirmed germination and sprouting of an Anthurium Crenatum ... something new has started to grow!

Oh, that's a mystery. It definitely looks like Philodendron brandtianum, but it's unlikely that you'd find one of those at Lowes. Meanwhile, since we know Costa Farms supplies Lowes, it's more likely that it's one of the Scindapsus pictus cultivars. "Trebi" is very similar to what Sky is suggesting, as is "Exotica". As far as what to DO about it, I would get it out of its pot and look at the roots. Trim off any dead ones and soft stems and repot in a faster draining mix. 1/3 perlite, 1/3 reptibark, and 1/3 potting mix works for mine. Remember too that with variegated plants like this, only the green parts of the leaves have chlorophyll, so the silver parts aren't helping the plant grow. That makes their growth very slow. Also, Scindapsus also naturally grow slower than even varigated Epipremnum (the usual "pothos" plant) and Philodendrons. I keep mine in a southeast window, but up high where it only gets direct sun in the early morning and indirect light for the rest of the day. Its vines cover the shelf it lives on. The leaves curl up when it's thirsty.

Pothos has preformed root primordia and can easily be rooted in a damp (never wet or soggy) medium. If your medium happens to be on the water-retentive side, use a deep pot and be sure the basal end of the cutting is not submerged in water that occupies the PWT - same with the jasmine. Neither should require a rooting aid - more on that in a sec. Propagules started in water produce roots that are physiologically much different than roots of plants started in a solid medium. The root pith of propagules started in water will consist of a spongy tissue called aerenchyma, an adaptation that allows gas exchange from the air above the waterline instead of from the solid medium, as is the case with terrestrial plants that have a tissue called parenchyma that performs the exchange. Aerenchymous roots are very brittle, often break during transplanting, and often die back because they transition poorly to a solid medium. The effect is, you are essentially starting over with a propagule that has already expended a lot of energy to grow a root system capable of coping with its aquatic environment, and is now being asked to use even more energy to adapt to terrestrial conditions. In the end, you'll be way ahead if you learn to propagate terrestrial plants in a solid medium. BTW, if it's a stubborn terrestrial plant that all but refuses to be cloned except by following a strict methodology, odds are about nil it will change its mind because the propagule is inundated. The topics of rooting in water and rooting aids are frequently discussed, so I saved a couple of post I wrote. I hope find them to be of some value: Rooting aids I don't think it's accurate to pitch a particular brand or type of rooting hormone because different plant species respond to different chemicals, whether we are cloning hardwood, summer wood, or herbaceous/tip cuttings. Even though it's generally true that the most effective concentration levels normally vary and can be roughly grouped by the 3 types of cuttings you mentioned, the most effective chemical to use also varies and can be much more important than concentration levels; so, it is a combination of the concentration AND the choice of chemical + type of cutting and time of year that determines the effectiveness of a rooting chemical. The rooting aids are synthesized forms of the plant hormone/growth regulator 'auxin'. Indole butyric acid (IBA) and naphthalene acetic acid (NAA) are the two most common chemicals that have been found to be reliable in the promotion of rooting in cuttings. IBA is widely applied in general use because it is non-toxic to most plants over a wide range and promotes root growth in a large number of plant species. Some plants respond better to either IBA or NAA, some respond to ONLY one or the other, some may have a toxic reaction to one but not the other which will lead to poor or no growth and actually, mortality; and some respond best to combinations of both chemicals, or to other variations of either IBA or NAA based on K (potassium). Both IBA and NAA are commonly available in talc or in liquid formulations of varying concentrations. I do lots of propagating of several hard-to-root species, but only use a rooting aid occasionally for the most difficult. As a generalization, you should know on a per plant basis which chemical and concentration is most apt to be effective before applying it. I have found it mostly unnecessary. Learning a little about the cultural conditions cuttings prefer and some other tricks (like methods of wounding) along with cleanliness will add more to what it takes to be successful at propagating (plants) than rooting aids (except in the very hard to root plants). Rooting in Water Though roots form readily and often seemingly more quickly on many plants propagated in water, the roots produced are quite different from those produced in a soil-like or highly aerated medium (perlite - screened Turface - calcined DE - seed starting mix, e.g.). Physiologically, you will find these roots to be much more brittle than normal roots due to a much higher percentage of aerenchyma (a tissue with a greater percentage of intercellular air spaces than normal parenchyma). Aerenchyma tissue is filled with airy compartments. It usually forms in already rooted plants as a result of highly selective cell death and dissolution in the root cortex in response to hypoxic conditions in the rhizosphere (root zone). There are 2 types of aerenchymous tissue. One type is formed by cell differentiation and subsequent collapse, and the other type is formed by cell separation without collapse ( as in water-rooted plants). In both cases, the long continuous air spaces allow diffusion of oxygen (and probably ethylene) from shoots to roots that would normally be unavailable to plants with roots growing in hypoxic media. In fresh cuttings placed in water, aerenchymous tissue forms due to the same hypoxic conditions w/o cell death & dissolution. Note too, that under hypoxic (airless - low O2 levels) conditions, ethylene is necessary for aerenchyma to form. This parallels the fact that low oxygen concentrations, as found in water rooting, generally stimulate trees (I'm a tree guy) and other plants to produce ethylene. For a long while it was believed that high levels of ethylene stimulate adventitious root formation, but lots of recent research proves the reverse to be true. Under hypoxic conditions, like submergence in water, ethylene actually slows down adventitious root formation and elongation. If you wish to eventually plant your rooted cuttings in soil, it is probably best not to root them in water because of the frequent difficulty in transplanting them to soil. The brittle "water-formed” roots often break during transplant & those that don't break are very poor at water absorption and often die. The effect is equivalent to beginning the cutting process over again with a cutting in which vitality has likely been reduced. If you do a side by side comparison of cuttings rooted in water & cuttings rooted in soil, the cuttings in soil will always (for an extremely high percentage of plants) have a leg up in development on those moved from water to a soil medium for the reasons outlined above. Al Edited to say: The parent plant's state of vitality, how you select and prepare the propagule, and where the parent plant is in its growth cycle, all have a great deal of influence on how likely you are to be successful. A plan is better than a prayer when it comes to propagating plants.