Hello Tammy, You are correct about propagating African Violets, I have not heard of this technique being applied to pelargoniums. Rooting Martha Washington (Regal) pelargoniums is relatively straightforward provided that a few simple rules are obsserved and thes are basically the same for ALL pelargoniums. Select material only from disease-free plants, if in doubt spray the plants with insecticide/fungicide beforehand. Pelargonium cuttings can be taken all the year round except for REGAL and ANGEL pelargoniums which are best taken, in UK, between October and March i.e. the cooler part of the year. The rooting medium I use consists of soiless compost 3 parts, Perlite or horticultural vermiculite 1 part. Mix the two together and moisten. It is also possible to use compressed peat discs. Make sure that the rooting medium is warmed to the optimum temperature for rooting cuttings which is about 16 to 18 degrees Celsius. Do not try to root pelargonium cuttings in cold compost. To aid rooting, dip the prepared cutting in a solution of Ascobic acid (vitamin C) 1 gram per 85ml. cool boiled water. Store the freshly made solution in a brown bottle, make up fresh every two days. The solution should be colourless. Pelargonium cuttings do not like hormone rooting powder or rooting liquid and tend to rot. If there is no Ascorbic acid available insert the prepared cutting straight into the rooting mixture. Water and allow to drain thoroughly. Do NOT cover or tent the cuttings Place them in a warm well lit place, not in diect sunlight and they should root in a few weeks. Some growers recomend that you water pelargonium cuttings from below i.ie stand the pot in a dish of warm water to lessen problems with Botrytis Martha Washington (Regal) plants are prone to attack by Whitefly and Aphids: I use a systemic insecticide based on Imidachloprid (which also protects against vine weevil) to protect the plants. Hope this helps Ron

Hello Karyn, you may very well use other sources of botom heat but I find that the undersoil cable is very gentle and almost costs nothing to run.I have two deep propogating bays both sides of one greenhouse on the staging.They have liners then a layer of sandy gravel.The cable is snaked through and a layer of the sandy gravel on top.The sides to keep it all in is made of plywood boards.I do have a large metal heating pad but I find it gets far too hot unless I put polystyrene boards over.I was thinking of cheapness for you as it works for me. Hazel.

The shoot on the lower left is definitely trifoliate rootstock, and needs to come off. The one to the upper right looks like it has leaves similar to the scion, with a single leaflet and wide petiole wings. If that is the case, it is growing from the scion can stay on.

remove all broken parts ... at a proper pruning spot ... and see what happens this summer ... in fall.. we can decide if you need or want to go further ... nothings dies from proper pruning .... or removal of injured parts ... i cant tell from the last pic.. what needs to be pruned ... you can always prune more later .... so there is no hurry to go down to ground level immediately ... and with no insult to the massive root mass ... you might be surprised how fast it can regrow .. even if you go down to near ground level ... ken