OOPS...got behind on this thread. Peggy, I am still working on my spreadsheets and making labels in preparation to then plant, plant, plant without having to stop and make more labels. I have targeted Thanksgiving for having all bulbs, or nearly all the important bulbs planted. I'm not as concerned about the few NO ID daffs I have and the 250 or so specie tulips and muscari. I can sneak them in easily anywhere anytime before a good ground freeze. You wear me out with everything you have going so many evenings? Has all of the exercising given you more energy? Linda, Congratulations on your very first grand baby. I'm sure he caused a lot of excitement for everyone and hope he is doing great. Sorry to hear of your Mom's fall, but glad it was nothing serious. Possibly it served as a good warning to try and be very careful. She sure seems to be doing well for her age and please tell her I am looking forward to her making it to the next swap...hear? Doris, I'm sure the daffs your boss got will not to too pink. I'm going to guess that they were likely ordered from Breck's. If so, their pics are touched up and are not a good depiction of their true colors. Here is Breck's Pink Collection (not!) Here are some pics that better show their true colors Chromacolor at Daffseek Romance at Daffseek Pink Charm at Daffseek In attending some local Daffodil Shows, I did see many daffs that had a very pretty pink color to them...a true soft pink, nothing peachy about it. Another thing too, is that a daffs color changes as the bloom matures. A bloom that emerges as a yellowy peach can turn its true color of being more pink as it matures. The pic below is Salome on the left and Mrs. R. O. Backhouse on the right. The pic below was taken one day later (and some blooms were added), but you can seed how they have 'pinked up' a good bit. Neither are ones I would call one of the truer pinks though compared to what I have seen at shows. Peggy, your garden club lunch and then work sounds like a lot of fun. I hope it does well and you get us some pics next year. Sue...off to hopefully finish up pretty well on labels today.

I'm sorry, I should have listed it for all, but Debra & I had a thread interaction about the pinched/pleated throats & were commenting on how the dl world needed more & I got a little excited I guess. That gorgeous cherry red one with the teeth makes my heart skip a beat every time I see it.... A friend of mine just received an order from him & let's just say he was very generous!

I'm coming to the discussion late but had to weigh in. Imagine if you saw people in the neighborhood making and eating some stuff out of flour and water and a some lesser ingredients. After it was mixed together, they baked it, smeared some butter on it and it was heavenly delicious! They called it bread. When you tried to copy it at home, you didn't know about the yeast so your attempt at making bread was a disaster. How can something one place can be so delicious and somewhere else, inedible? But that, in fact, is what's happening with crape myrtle pruning on a grand scale. While I fully support the annual pruning (which can be done anytime during the dormant season) I notice that upwards of 90 or 95 percent of the pruning is done poorly, or horribly and could rightfully be termed "crape myrtle murder." But I think this term is unfortunate as, instead of persuading the fearful and uninformed to learn a better pruning strategy, it causes them to not prune at all or only very little. If crape myrtle pruning did not produce SOME beneficial effects, it would cease. So even if done poorly, some good effects result: larger, healthier looking leaves... larger bloom clusters... leaves retained longer into the season... longer lasting blooms... arching branches that nearly create a "weeping" form. These effects, to some degree, come even with the worst pruning jobs. If the pruning is done well, one also benefits by having a "tree" whose form is impeccable, whose size is appropriate to its setting, whose trunk structure is a sculptural object in and of itself and whose overall presence is commanding of its space. A well pruned crape is a sight to behold. Unfortunately, we almost never see one. The terms "tree" and "shrub" are ill defined divisions within the woody plants. I use them to explain FORM, not size: A tree is a woody plant with one or more trunks (vertical) in which the bottom branches (horizontal) are absent. A shrub is a woody plant with multiple trunks (vertical) in which the branches (horizontal) are retained so that foliage is continuous to the ground. Most plants that we call trees, if left to grow in the middle of a sunny field and never pruned, would qualify as shrubs. Plants that we think of as "shrubs" sometimes lose their bottom branches and turn into "trees." It's pretty easy to see that the area between "trees" and "shrubs" contains a lot of "grey." What is the nature of a crape myrtle left to its own devices? It would definitely be a shrub... a very large shrub as crapes can climb to the 40' height range. At such a size, it's spread would likely be 25' or so. It begins to become obvious that if we let woody plants only grow "naturally" we would be barely be able to contain any of them in our yards. So like the maples and oaks, we frequently limb up crape myrtles and other large shrubs by removing their lower branches. Even those who tend to be against altering plants via pruning, are almost universally content to turn crape myrtles into "trees." The question becomes, TO WHAT HEIGHT should crape myrtles be limbed up? The bottom of a tree canopy forms a "ceiling." I suggest that the answer is contained in the idea that plants are serving the needs of humans. When has a person ever found it desirable to have a ceiling dragging on their hair or smacking them in the face? Ceilings created by plants should clear the human head. That means that they will be no lower than 7' at the extreme. But like ceilings in houses, often higher "feels" better than lower so there is rarely an objection to limbing up further. (I'm speaking of how the SPACE seems... not the object within the space.) Look around at the crape myrtles you see pruned... or "murdered." How many of them are cut to a height of only four to six feet? This means that all the branching will occur not above one's head, but directly in one's face. Instead of being a ceiling to walk under, crapes become visual and physical obstructions. (Scroll up to look, again, at the photo posted by pabrocb. This is a very typical pruning.) While you're looking, also take a good look at the trunk structure. (pabrocb, I'm not trying to pick on your crape, I just need a photo to use and yours is already here and it works. But it would be one of thousands.) There is predominantly one main vertical trunk. Two smaller trunks break off to the right and left, defining the overall "V" shape of the plant, within which are a couple more minor "whips." The trunk system viewed from above might look like half an asterisk. For a moment, let's imagine what a handsome bouquet of flowers in a crystal vase looks like. Are the stems organized... or crossing chaotically from any direction? Are they of disparate sizes... or similar? Are they uniform of texture... or with a patchwork of random leaves attached at any point? When viewed from above, are they full (3-dimensionally)... or is their form like that partial asterisk? Take a quick look at a vase of flowers to see why it has appeal. I suggest that putting to use some of the principles employed in creating the vase of flowers when pruning a crape, can produce a plant with statesman-like stature... rather than one that appears to have been for some time homeless. I hunted Google images for an example of a crape myrtle pruned in the way I'm describing, but couldn't find even one ideal example. There are runners up but nothing on the money. I'm attaching a sketch that gives an idea of what I suggest makes a useful and beautiful crape. Nowhere in my discussion am I claiming that a crape myrtle grown in the tree form and left unpruned (as in Kate's example directly above) is undesirable, ugly or in some way without merit. They make beautiful, "natural" looking trees. But... there are many times that one does not want the 20 or 30-foot height... or the smaller, more sparse foliage, or the upright habit or the thinner, more sparse flowering, etc., etc. In these cases, annual pruning CAN turn a crape myrtle into a very useful and beautiful, "right sized" plant. When done properly, even the leafless winter form--beheaded or not--can be an outstanding sight. Also, there is another feature of annually pruned crapes that develops over time if one is consistent in their pruning... that is the formation of swollen, "paddle"-like woody structures at the tips of the trunks. These are hard to describe to one who has never seen them. They become large and let the crape take on a persona reminiscent of a strange and exotic undersea creature... or an unusual artistic sculpture. At least, they are fascinating and interesting conversation pieces. To those who ARE murdering their crapes, you might consider making a few changes to your pruning methods so here's a few tips: If the trunk structure is not good (like a full bouquet) there is nothing you can do but start over. However, you should know if you've ever cut down an undesirable weed sapling in an attempt to get rid of it, it will grow back (with more trunks) in very short order. I wouldn't hesitate to cut a crape back to about 18" right before the spring growing season. It will regrow with many more trunks. (This process is called 'rejuvenation.') Each year evaluate it's structure and if there are not enough trunks, cut it back to half its height. Eventually, there will be enough where you want them. Remove any trunks that start on one side and cross over through the center to the other side. They should all radiate in an outward direction from the center in order to appear organized. After much looking, I consider the ideal "V" shape spread to be about 45*. Narrower than that, crapes just don't look like they have as much money in their pocket. Wider than that, the trunks start appearing or becoming obstructions to use of the space they're in... so it depends on the setting. So I remove any trunks or cut them back so that only those within this imagined cone remain. Trunks are more vertical than 45*; branches are more horizontal than 45*. When doing the annual dormant season pruning, remove all branches and let only trunks remain. In general, cut back the trunk length to one half of the recent year's growth. It will be a mistake to leave it all as it terminates in weak, thin growth of not uniform height. Trimming it back by half allows growth to the overall height of the tree, helps it to keep an organized appearing presence and keeps the trunks stout and strong relative to the weight and burden of the coming growing season. (The trunks also need to "branch" a little on their up in order that the cone shape continues to be full of trunks as it widens out.) Cut all trunks straight across the top. If they are cut at varying heights they do not look good. It is much more bother to create a "domed" appearance and it does not look good either. Straight is easiest and best. As, and after the tree branches out, completely remove all branches that occur below half the height of the tree. While the new branches are just buds or soft growth, this can be done very quickly with the wipe of a gloved hand. Yesterday, I cleaned up a small crape (about 6' ht.) for my mom and it took about 20 minutes. Almost all of the small, twiggy branches can be knocked off with any weighty implement. Strike downward (but not actually scraping off bark) alongside the trunk and they will just quickly pop off. I usually do this with my closed hand pruners, but a machete or even a heavy screwdriver will work. Over a few years, a crape will work it's way upward so that you are cutting the main trunks at the final height of 8' above the ground. This is what I would consider the minimum. It works out pretty well for having the canopy clear a person's head. And it's a cutting height that one can do while standing on the ground... with a good set of loppers. A 5' height person would need a small step-stool to do this job. Depending on the circumstances of the setting, a higher final trunk cutting height might be desired. I know there are plenty of people who will always prefer a "natural" look and will never want to grow a crape as I describe. I'm not trying to convince them to change. But if one likes the features and benefits that annual pruning of crapes provides, I hope they consider looking "beyond leaves and flowers" and examine how much more improved a crape can be if its structure is properly shaped and organized and given the attention it deserves. Then any common crape can become an outstanding specimen. Hopefully, soon, the homicide rate will begin to fall. I realize, also, that my method is contrary to the majority of advice given about maintaining crapes: "Let 3 or 4 main trunks remain." "Cut at 6' height." "Every so often, remove old trunks and let them be replaced with new ones." This is pat horticultural shrub maintenance advice with no regard to the design aspect or purpose a plant serves. Even though I have a degree in horticulture, I've been happily disregarding this advice for decades.

Seedmama, See there, I really can read your mind. Now, I hope you're taking care of yourself and not wearing yourself out too much helping everyone else. You have to save some energy in case one of the next weather monsters hits y'all too. By the way, I saw your thread on 'alerts' and agreed with every word. I like it when the severe weather threads stay high on the page long enough for everyone to see them, but there are times we need follow-up info from folks who are seeing new alerts or new developments and want to share them. It seems like a fine line to walk, doesn't it? Today, I am going to keep posting new alerts as new threads for as long as I can. It might not be all that long if the storms develop here first and move north/northeast. I have watched huge amounts of moisture stream overhead from Texas, across the Red River, above and beyond us and towards all of y'all. I don't like that. I am afraid all the Gulf moisture in the air could contribute to significant storms. It is so nice that your shelter is open to your friends and neighbors. Ours is too, but it is just one of those little in-ground ones that is about 6' x 8' so it doesn't hold huge numbers of people. I've already touched base with some of the neighbors to make sure they know they're welcome to climb into the shelter. I urged them to just come over, open the door and climb in, even if we aren't at home. I've been in the kitchen baking cookies and muffins so I'll have something to feed hungry firefighters if they go out on search/rescue/recovery missions during this round of storms, in addition to their usual fire and accident calls. Hopefully, we won't need the cookies and muffins and I can just freeze them and save them for another bad day. The earthquakes here surprised me a tiny bit when we moved here, but not a lot. We even have occasional earthquakes in parts of north central Texas, although they are less frequent than the ones in central OK. The large number of quakes the last 18 months or so in central OK does seem a tiny bit excessive. We moved here in mid-April 1999 and didn't have a tornado shelter. Then the May 3, 1999, tornado outbreak occurred and we didn't even know it. Because internet and cell service were almost nonexistent here then (later on, the addition of new cell towers fixed the cell phone issue but internet access was much slower) and local TV reception was very poor (DirectTV saved us), we didn't even know tornadoes were occurring in the OKC area until our phone starting ringing with folks from Texas calling to see if we'd been hit by tornadoes. That year, you couldn't get a tornado shelter here because of the huge demand in the OKC area, but we had a shelter put in early in 2000. Prior to this year, we probably hadn't been in that tornado shelter but maybe once or twice a year and some years not at all. We've already been in it at least 3 times this year because of storms. It does make a great root cellar too. I'm hoping none of us have to flee to the shelters today or tonight, but know it is likely some of us will. I think I am almost more afraid of the hail which they keep describing as potentially larger than baseballs than the possibility of a tornado. Neither one is a pleasant option though. I won't blame you for the earthquakes because you redeemed yourself by creating a whole new method for lasagna vegetable composing/bed building and strawberry gardening. : ) I think the genius of what you did there gives you redemption for causing the earthquakes in Oklahoma. C'mon, on a day like today, we have to find something to laugh about..... Dawn