How I protect my palms in Zone 6b

islandbreeze

11 years ago

Here's a link to pics of my protection method:
http://s219.beta.photobucket.com/user/islandbreeze_photos/story/5505

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Comments (11)

jimhardy
11 years ago
Would you mind posting some of those pics individually?

Every time the pics come up before I can really look at
then the page changes and never comes back.
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Sure, it didn't turn out like i would have hoped. Giving it a different approach...
This is my 6 foot Dracaena tied up and wrapped in rope lights. This is the same protection approach I use on my larger palms, including my 4ft trachy and 6.5 foot trachy. Notice the thick layer of mulch I lay down before putting the structure over the plant.
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I would go for it Rick, I think your location is looking even more encouraging, since it is really a zone 7 and not too wet, I'm guessing. Here in NM, pomegranate does very well throughout the middle and lower Rio Grande Valley, with no protection, and no obvious dieback. Most of this area is in zones 7 and 8, but single digits are not that uncommon, especially where cold air settles in the lowest part of the valley. Some of these areas have reached record lows of -19F! I believe this was in the 1970's, but I would be surprised if there aren't at least some tender plants surviving from before that time. There are some very old pomegranate and fig trees in Albuquerque. I'm experimenting with some pomegranates here in my zone6/7 area and so far so good. I'll be able to say more when/if I get fruit. I started with hardwood cuttings which take very easily, so I think this is a plant that is very condusive to experimentation, since it is easily propagated, and grows well with a mimimum of care. Siting in a warm microclimate is definitely very helpful, as others have already mentioned. Good luck
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redsox, I had to laugh, I just did the same thing trying to find out if I'm 6 a or b and all the maps were so small I couldn't read any of them. Really someone has to make one of these for people who don't have 20/20 vision. When I put my zip in the second link it said I was 5b and I know that's not right. I'm smack dab in the middle of that zone 6 chip on the southeastern side of MI. Besides I grow a lot of things that would not survive in zone 5 winters. I like Zack's idea. I do know that the back wall of my house is always way warmer than any other place in the yard.
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Well I did kinda chicken out and protect it as advised by pretty much everybody who responded, with christmas lights, burlap and a plastic bag, so I didn't put it to the unprotected test like I originally planned. However, it has been unprotected for the last couple weeks, all of which have been lows in the low 20s or even mid teens, and highs in the 30s to no more than 40. It is looking good, but the leaflets are still closed up. It's part of the coping mechanism for the cold weather, but I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow. Came out very well, seeing as I didn't use any mulch or lights over the ground for warmth to the root zone, AND it was almost November by the time I planted it.
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islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Dracaena tied up
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Thermostat secured to metal pole alongside plant and set at 40 degrees.
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Lattice bent into cylinder shape and secured with zip ties...
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Insulation lining the inside of the cylinder, held on with bungee cords.
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Put structure over the palm/dracaena...
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Cut sheet of lattice into strips for the roof/top
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
Bend strip of lattice into arch shape and secure the ends to the cylinder structure, making an arched top. This is great for repelling snow/rain. I continue with the insulation to the top, leaving the very top open for light(not sure if it's a necessity though). Finish with covering with a large clear plastic furniture bag and secure around the structure with bungees. This process is good because if plants are getting too tall, you just add another cylinder or half cylinder on top of the original to make the structure taller. They look like mini silos when done. If you live in a zone that's colder than mine, just put an extra strand of lights in there.
jimhardy
11 years ago
Great idea!

have you used the cables wrapped around it like that before?

I hope it doesn't get hot enough to burn it.

I am thinking of trying this sometime-

I wonder if wrapping it with a little burlap and then the
cables would be a good plan.

Have you seen these before?-Li

LINK BELOW WEATHER STICKER

The T-3(I think)turns the power on at 35F and off at 45F
and they are pretty cheap-let me know what you think
and best of luck with the Cordyline(?)

Hope I don't sound like a dick

Here is a link that might be useful: T-3
islandbreeze
Original Author
11 years ago
No, the rope lights don't get hot enough to burn the foliage. Yes I have used them before, along with regular christmas lights.

I'm sure the cordyline will be fine, it's done well the last 2 winters in ground, and just keeps getting bigger faster and faster.

I've heard of the thermocube before, but never seen them. Looks like a good buy for the price, similar to a thermostat.

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How I protect my palms in Zone 6b

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How I protect my palms in Zone 6b

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