In distress, too much or not enough water?

13 years ago

Gang, I guess I've got all kinds of problems lately, but here goes:

As you can see from the first picture I've got some deformed leaves, there were a couple that were much worse that I removed. I assume it is from over or under watering.

I feel like a moron for not knowing which. I believe that my soil, like most of FL, is pretty sandy. It is basically a grey to dark grey sand. I would expect that it would drain fairly quickly and easily. However, I've been holding back on supplementary watering because:

1) my moisture meter, beyond the first few few inches, reads "wet." (I've recently learned this may not be accurate due to soil type or other conditions.) We've been getting rain at least once a week.

2) everything was fine this spring, and then it got (a) very hot and (b) we had monsoon rains for a couple weeks. I'm not sure if the monsoon rains caused the problem, or potentially a hot dry period between monsoons.

3) my neighbor has lots of plumeria (out of view but right along the fence you see in photo 2) that never receive supplementary water, and they always look fine. (they're not getting nearly as much sun though.)

I don't really know how to tell how moist my soil is. If I put some in my hand, it is nowhere close to visibly oozing moisture. But at the same time there is almost certainly moisture content- I can make a small ball, it won't last long but it definitely isn't like holding sawdust.

There are a couple of other variables. My AC unit is behind the lattice, it does have a drain but the water that drains seems localized to a very small area. I don't *think* it is contributing moisture to the rest of the bed. Second, the AC unit probably runs 20 hours a day this time of the year, and the fan is constantly blowing air onto the back of the plant. I'm guessing it is the equivalent of a 15 MPH breeze or so.

Lastly, the hibiscus you see in the picture was wilted today, which makes me think maybe the soil is drier than I think it is. However, the Ti plants and ginger have never complained (the lantana could care less about water.)

I really appreciate any advice anyone has!

Brian

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (8)

Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
13 years ago
How long has the plumeria been in that location? Is it established? or newly planted?
irun5k
Original Author
13 years ago
Dave, I planted it this spring. I bought it at a local nursery just as it was starting to put out its first leaves of the year. It was in a smallish pot for its size- 3 gallon maybe?

The first few iterations of leaves went fine.
Related Discussions
Too much water or not enough?
Q
Comments (9)
To me watering is the issue, not the pot depth. I have many plants in pots more shallow than that. Lately it has been topping out in the upper 90's here and I'm watered very day. One of my grow areas has been hitting 100+ because of the concrete the benches sit on. This plant is growing and putting on leaves and only having about 3/8" of an inch of soil and about 1/4 of an inch of gravel over the roots. It get watered once a day. When we start hitting 110 + around that bench in July, it will need more shade. Bonsai would not have been a reality if things could not be grown in shallow pots. Most bonsai are less drought tolerant than the plants posted on this forum. randy
...See More
Too much water, not enough light etc?
Q
Comments (2)
If you're not planting them out soon - and at your zone, I assume you are not - I think you want to pot them up. They look like they have grown out of their starting cells. I think you will see improvement when they are in larger containers.
...See More
Too much sun or not enough water?
Q
Comments (5)
First, let's start with the same suggestion that virtually every new poster to GW will engender - include your location and/or climate zone with every post OR change your profile to reflect it. You will get much faster and more complete answers that are appropriate to your specific location, if we know what it is. Second, with any plantings, you can't water to a specific schedule. The frequency of the need to water is dependent on soil conditions, siting and weather. When you do water you want to water thoroughly, so the water can percolate down through the soil profile the full depth of the rootball. Third, the hydrangeas appear to be planted in amongst a bunch of weeds or weedy grass. Why are they not in clear planting beds? Lawns, weed grasses and weeds can easily outcompete young, newly planted plants for both soil moisture and nutrients, delaying proper establishment. A defined, clear planting area surrounding the plants (or a single planting bed that contains them all) that is kept free of weeds and grass is preferred. And this should be mulched, both to keep any weeds down and to insulate the soil and prevent evaporation. The leaves of the plants don't look too bad - a little off color and a few showing scorched tips - but overall they look as though the plants are receiving adequate water. The browned or withered flowers are just flowers that have passed their prime. They can be removed to improve the plants' appearance. Depending on the type of hydrangeas they are (another useful piece of info we lack), they may not produce any more flowers this season. Hydrangea macrophyllas that bloom on old wood (the vast majority of them) create flower buds in late summer or fall of the previous year. Once those buds have bloomed, that's it for the year. Reblooming macs (those that bloom on both old and new growth) can generate additional flower buds in season but young, new plants like these are not so much inclined to do so until fully established. The offcolor of the foliage and the faded flowers could indicate these plants are receiving a bit more sun than they'd prefer. This is not a deal breaker but something to be aware of and to work to offset. Or you could relocate these plants in fall to a shadier location (morning sun only) and plant more sun tolerant panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata cultivars) in their place.
...See More
Too much water or not enough? TIA
Q
Comments (1)
Too much water/not enough drainage/ill-suited soil, but I think there's enough light, so if you change the other three, you'll have some nice Kalanchoes (?) soon.
...See More
juicygirl
13 years ago
Hi I'm in New Tampa. Mine look like yours right now. I think we have both high temperatures and too much water. My father in law is in Tarpon Springs, his but his plumies are doing super great they are in the shade and he generally doesn't water them at all. Also it hardly rains. His soil is sandy I have to guess you and I are in the same boat
boo
LL
irun5k
Original Author
13 years ago
Interesting to hear you're having the same issues over in New Tampa. I have found that conventional advice often doesn't apply here. For example, I have Empire Zoysia grass, which everyone says requires a ton of sun. Well, my grass that gets a full day of sun has the most issues. The best? The part that is in the shade over 1/2 the day.

Same apparently goes for my neighbors plumerias and your father-in-law's.

I think the extreme heat and humidity we have is a game changer.

Still, I feel bad that my plumeria isn't has happy as it could be... would love to hear any ideas on how to help it if anyone has any.
Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
13 years ago
I think it may just need some time to get established. But, it really doesn't look all that bad to me! Once roots spread, it will be more vigorous (same with your hibiscus, I imagine).

Mine are in pots, so I can't be of much help. Sorry! I'm sure yours will establish quickly with your long season and warm temps.
juicygirl
13 years ago
I can tell you this much. After 4 years of killing plumerias, this much I've learned about where I live. I will have to grow my plants in pots until they are big.

One of my cuttings almost died from the heat, it looks like dehydration. It was drying like a little raisin. Had me fooled for a while there I thought it was stem rot, but no the stem was perfect. I moved that pot to the shade and about 1 week later my stems have become stronger and a couple of my leaves finally popped open today.

A few other my plumies, love to be drowning in water.

I almost killed a $30 cutting (Donald Angus) that I bought at Exotic Plumerias in Riverview by drowning it to death. Now all I have is a 6 inches left. I've had it 2 months and still not 1 leaf has grown on the blasted thing.

Another cutting I found (at Bush Garden, Singapore Frangipani)is about 1 inch tall. I stuffed the whole thing in a tiny pot and about 2 weeks ago and it looks like a little leaf is starting to poke out. I've kept that one very dry and in the shade

My Aztek gold is in the ground loves the heat, and dies during the frost every winter. It's just a few inches tall except this year it gave me two branches for me to kill it seems. What an ambitious plant.

For my birthday in June my better half thought it would be great to give me some cuttings from Hawaii. Finally almost 8 weeks after we got the cuttings I've started to make some progress. Last week I gave them fertilizer for the first time with Phosphorus, Nitrogen and Potassium. It seems to have done the trick and my leaves finally popped open on all of my plants. I have about 8 new cuttings that I'm trying to grow.

Best advise for your right now, is try a little food for your tree. Summer time is the right time to fertilize plumerias. My new plan will be once a week, on the roots and the following week with a spritzer on the leaves.

Well hope it helps and good luck!
LL
PRO
the_first_kms2
13 years ago
It looks relatively healthy to me for being planted recently. The tips look nice and green. I typically have leaf stress deformation during fast growth and/or blooming cycles.
Loveplants2 8b Virginia Beach, Virginia
13 years ago
Hey Irun5k,

Your Plumeria looks very happy and healthy!!! I would agree with Dave and leave it alone for awhile to become established to it's new permanent home. If you are really worrried about it needing water, your tree will give you a sign that it needs it. When in doubt...wait a few days so that you don't overwater. Some of my larger trees will start to droop and then once watered they perk up quite a bit. You will figure out it's habits soon enough!!

You can always water a little around the outer edge of the tree (drip line) and will make you feel better without drenching the whole root ball... hope this helps!!!

Don't forget to fertilize..and maybe add some epsom salt around the tree (only a small handful)

All looks great with your tree...it's very happy!!!

Laura in VB

In distress, too much or not enough water?

Comments (8)

Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A

irun5k
Original Author

Related Discussions

juicygirl

irun5k
Original Author

Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A

juicygirl

the_first_kms2

Loveplants2 8b Virginia Beach, Virginia

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

In distress, too much or not enough water?

Comments (8)

Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A

irun5kOriginal Author

Related Discussions

juicygirl

irun5kOriginal Author

Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A

juicygirl

the_first_kms2

Loveplants2 8b Virginia Beach, Virginia

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

irun5k
Original Author

irun5k
Original Author