this is second pics, actually I already moved it to this smaller pot and make the rootball exposed again to the air and put it back to the coffee table next to glass door in my apartment. I don't think this is too much water, it looks dry on the yellow leaves...is it stressed out because I moved it with too much sun? I thought echeveria like fuller sun...or maybe because I never water it thoroughly because of traumatic with all the leaves drops and rotten before? when it gonna grow new rossettes on the stem>? I read it will grow new rossettes head on the stem, is it true?? should I water it or just let it be...?? please advise soon...help...i dont want to lose this again

cover it with a good deep layer of mulch, like 4". use whatever you can find, lawn rakings, leaves, chipped christmas trees, anything organic. this soil will not dry out as easily anymore, and you will be feeding it, it will become very retentive of moisture, and fertile. that's what i do, anyway.

First, let's start with the same suggestion that virtually every new poster to GW will engender - include your location and/or climate zone with every post OR change your profile to reflect it. You will get much faster and more complete answers that are appropriate to your specific location, if we know what it is. Second, with any plantings, you can't water to a specific schedule. The frequency of the need to water is dependent on soil conditions, siting and weather. When you do water you want to water thoroughly, so the water can percolate down through the soil profile the full depth of the rootball. Third, the hydrangeas appear to be planted in amongst a bunch of weeds or weedy grass. Why are they not in clear planting beds? Lawns, weed grasses and weeds can easily outcompete young, newly planted plants for both soil moisture and nutrients, delaying proper establishment. A defined, clear planting area surrounding the plants (or a single planting bed that contains them all) that is kept free of weeds and grass is preferred. And this should be mulched, both to keep any weeds down and to insulate the soil and prevent evaporation. The leaves of the plants don't look too bad - a little off color and a few showing scorched tips - but overall they look as though the plants are receiving adequate water. The browned or withered flowers are just flowers that have passed their prime. They can be removed to improve the plants' appearance. Depending on the type of hydrangeas they are (another useful piece of info we lack), they may not produce any more flowers this season. Hydrangea macrophyllas that bloom on old wood (the vast majority of them) create flower buds in late summer or fall of the previous year. Once those buds have bloomed, that's it for the year. Reblooming macs (those that bloom on both old and new growth) can generate additional flower buds in season but young, new plants like these are not so much inclined to do so until fully established. The offcolor of the foliage and the faded flowers could indicate these plants are receiving a bit more sun than they'd prefer. This is not a deal breaker but something to be aware of and to work to offset. Or you could relocate these plants in fall to a shadier location (morning sun only) and plant more sun tolerant panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata cultivars) in their place.

thanks jack, I plan on aerating this fall and de-thatching to remove any dead brown material next spring. The lawn is very thick and weed free. Even though most of the dollar spot is in a full sun area; the large amount of rain we received this spring and some poor judgment on my part with over watering (never had an irrigation system before) provide a rich environment for the dollar spot. I am hoping changes to my lawn care system will alleviate the problem next spring. I am trying to understand the proper timing to water. i.e. when the grass appearance indicates it needs water, screw driver insertion test etc. I also plan on completing a soil betterment program this growing season that Morph had suggested based on a Logan Lab's Soil Test result. Along with supplementing the program with Milorganite in early September.