Best organic pesticide for house plant soil?
algar32
10 years ago
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jean001a
10 years agoKimmsr
10 years agoRelated Discussions
planting a plant into the ground with organic soil
Comments (3)The whole reason the nursery trade sells trees in pots is so they can be planted in the ground any time of the year. I agree with Don that dormant planting is always superior, if only because plants with their entire root system in potting medium are difficult to keep adequately moist when in growth. However there's a lot of growing season left and if the tree is healthy and you keep your eyes on it and water it before the mix dries out for the next couple of months you'll get a jump start over waiting until the end of the season in getting these trees established. This is especially true of indeterminate growers like peaches and Japanese plums that continue to grow vigorously throughout the season. I also agree with Don's advice about planting trees a bit high, but mulch the trees above the potting soil level leaving the potting soil bare so you can easily monitor and water it. If the trees are badly root bound with large circling roots, than you might be best off following Don's advice, although in my experience fruit trees never seem to suffer from girdling roots- but that's just my anecdotal observation. If you need to do any manipulation of the roots wait for dormancy....See MoreOrganic Pesticides
Comments (1)There are lots of product s on the market...I would call your local Nursery and find out what is safe.. What we have here varies from place to place.. MIke Here is a link that might be useful: organic pest.....See MoreBest way to get organic matter into sandy tampa soil
Comments (16)Check out http://www.turfprousa.com/lawn_and_garden_prodcuts.html they have liduid Turf Pro to add microelements, beneficial fungi and bacteria, etc. into the soil to the roots, it is not a fertilizer, it is soil amendment. Exclusively beneficial for turf and all plants as well, it could be sprayed to any plant. Their web explains everything. You may want to apply it now, and then in fall-winter, when your grass become brown, mow it short and cover with thin layer of compost (~1/4") like topdressing, distributing with a flat side of a rake. Good luck!...See MoreOrganic pesticide for large market garden
Comments (3)The only thing I've found to work with vine borers and cucumber beetles is row covers. Two summers ago I had basically no cucumber harvest and very little zucchini harvest, despite planting every 2 weeks. Last summer I covered winter squash, zucchini and cukes with row covers until the plants flowered - I even did a bit of hand pollinating to keep the plants covered longer, but that got old fast. I had a decent harvest of squash and cukes all summer long. I still had cucumber beetle issues, but no squash borers. I use spinosad, insecticidal soap, and Pyganic as a last resort. I keep bees and am very careful about what I spray. In the last few years there's been a push to use spinosad over BT as it's supposed to be more environmentally friendly, but it will kill bees for a few hours after it's sprayed, so I try to spray early in the day or when it's cloudy. I never spray flowering plants. Insecticidal soap can be very effective if you spray often enough to kill larvae. It only kills soft bodied insects so is safe around bees and beneficials. I only use Pyganic when I have a major infestation, such as the Japanese beetles that decimated part of my orchard. Or when I've reached the limit of applications with other pesticides. I think the organic rules only allow me to spray insecticidal soap 6 times per crop (I'd have to double check that), so I have to switch to spinosad and Pyganic by the end of the growing season. The other thing I use is Surround. It's pretty effective in my apple orchard, but I have to coat 3 times, and if there's a lot of rain I can't keep up with it. I've tried on cucumbers, but the plants grow too fast to keep them coated. Surround does work well on eggplant, providing that you don't get too much rain. I only used Neem once, and it killed some bees so I never tried it again. I think if you use some basic precautions it would be ok, but I was under the impression it was nontoxic to bees, and I was wrong. It definitely kills bees. The fungicides we use are Serenade and to a lesser extent, liquid copper. I couldn't grow apples here at all without Serenade, I also use it for blight and powdery mildew....See Morealgar32
10 years agoKimmsr
10 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
10 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
10 years agoLeafhead
10 years agoKimmsr
10 years agoshonman
9 years agoshonman
9 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5