I take it they are getting as much sun as they can receive without getting burned.If you bought your begonias from California they may not bloom till next year;if you bought them from England (through White Flower Farm) they are mature enough to bloom this year.If you planted them directly in the pots as tubers you may have to wait awhile.If you started them indoors early and planted them in pots when groen they should be blooming.I have more than 20 in pots ,most of them from White Flower Farm,the rest from Antonneli's in California.So far only three have been blooming but there are buds on most of the others.You could use a bloom booster fertilizer(don't overdo)>Antonnelis has a special fertilizer to encourage and sustain blooming.Two years ago most of my the 26 begonias did not bloom;I gave them more sun and they bloomed their heads off.It depends on where you are and how long the growing season is.I'm in Northern Va.and the season goes (for begonias) tii the very start of October(but by then the su has gone down lower in the sky).Good luck and dont give up.

In commercial groves here in central Florida, the normal peak bloom for all oranges would be the 2nd or 3rd week in March. As to how that relates to a potted plant outside this area, I don't know.

Be sure to stake those tomato plants well. What kind of tomatoes? That matters. The plants are 8 weeks and only a foot tall? That's odd (for all the varieties I've grown, that is). Got pics? I seeded 4 varieties on 3/16 and they are all nearly a foot tall (10"). They aren't hydro exactly. They are in a medium of worm castings from my worm bins, sifted compost, perlite, and coco coir. Mortgage lifter, brandywine, zebra, and san marzano are the varieties. I will choose the strongest of each for hydro, the rest for the ground. I will say that these are the strongest and best tomato plants I've ever grown, though. It's also the first year for using fresh castings in a seedling mix. Coincidence? I think not. Anyway, my hydro tomatoes have always grown even faster. I'm not bragging as I am no expert by any means. Just pointing out that it seems odd to me for two month old plants to be only a foot tall. Algae: I've used a few methods for preventing it's buildup, though it isn't going to significantly harm the plant if you don't have algae in the reservoir. One method was to just remove the layer with algae and wash it. Then put it back. Too much work and that was early on. I've used peroxide spray, but since reading about how peroxide breaks down root tissue, I have chosen to just cover the perlite with a pie pan with a slit in it. Be sure to make a hole big enough to go around the stem after it grows thicker. I would also put some duct tape on the edges of the slit to prevent accidentally cutting yourself or you plant as you put it on. So, you put a hole in the center. You cut a straight line from the edge to the hole. Tape the razor sharp edges. Open it and slide it on. I have also used some plastic discs I cut out of shower stall lining. Not the curtain stuff. The wall stuff that is glued on. We renovated and had some left over. It works great for this and for covering Autopots. It's more flexible and won't cut you like a pie pan can. I usually get blooms within the first 8 weeks. You don't have to trigger blooming, though you can with stressing. There are a variety of ways people do this. I don't force flower, though. I adjust nutes when I see flowers and the plant has a decent body to it. This varies based on the type. By adjusting nutes, I mean flush the system and use a new concoction. If you can use a different container so that you can clean out the growing one, that is better. Plus, it is just more convenient to pick up the plant and set it down in another reservoir. Some say not to worry about flushing too often, but I try to every two weeks or three weeks. I don't keep track like I should unless it's an experiment. I also use weaker solutions than the instructions state. I use the old solution on my flowers in the ground. Make sure it's not too acid or you'll kill your valuable worms in the soil.

Male and female flowers are not common. The Dioscorea is an exception, not the rule for cacti and succulents. Another exception are the Euphorbias. Treat most cacti and succulents as having both male and female parts on each flower. I think a single plant is usually either male or female if the flowers are only one sex.