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Do my apple trees have a disease?

9 years ago

I just planted my first set of apple trees this spring. 3 Honeycrisp and 2 Zestar. The Honeycrisps have stopped growing since around 2 months ago. Their leaves have been getting a spots on them along with turning black. The leaves are also very brittle. The Zestars appear to be growing healthy but they are starting to get a few spots on their leaves. Can anyone tell me what is on the trees and how to get rid of it?

Comments (7)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
fall is on the trees.. time for the leaves to shut down.. and fall off ...

one has been slowing down properly for a month.. as you note..

i wonder why the others are in fast growth phase ... plants need to garden off before winter.. not grow lushly ...

you might want to check in the fruit forum ... as well as mentioning where you are

ken
tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
9 years ago
The fact they stopped growing is not a concern. The leaf damage, however, could be apple scab.

tj
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What kind of spray program have you been using? Fruit trees, especially stone fruit need to be on a antibacterial and fungal spray program. The bacteria and fungus thrive in warm moist weather, so after every wet spell we need to spray our trees to help prevent bacterial canker. Looks like you had an episode of bacteria that got covered with sealer. You need to spray copper on it. The sad thing is once you get a canker there is no spray that will get rid of it. Sprays only keep it in check and most of all help prevent it. Reading on a university site they say to cut all wood out that shows signs of infection. I think they are talking when its at a small fisher state looking like a crack in the trunk. If that tree's oozing sap all the way around the trunk you might need a new tree. You might be able to chip graft below the canker, and if the upper part of the tree dies you can cut it all off just above your graft. You would have to graft low away from infection. Trees with cankers usually show die back the next spring, so if your graft took and grows you have a back up plan.
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Here in middle Tennessee, I would categorize it as "highly" susceptible. It does fine when sprayed, but left untreated the leaves eventually become nearly completely covered. I'd say about the same as Gold Rush, which I'd also consider as highly susceptible - at least in my climate. I have another variety called "Gold Star", that even when treated still got a moderate amount of CAR. Would hate to see what it looks like untreated.
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Thanks mes111, the linked article made the process very easy to understand. I had tried to be as organic as possible and used sulfur this year but I will be using Immunox next spring. From what I have read, ( and what I experienced last year on my trees,) older trees can be devastated by CAR. Unlike younger trees, older trees don't grow many new leaves after spring and the danger of CAR infection is past, and so, are not able to store up engergy through the leaves for the next year. Last year, all the leaves were covered with CAR and most dropped by late summer. Looks like the same will happen this year. Is there anything I can do to help the trees compensate for the damage done to their leaves? Should I try to remove any apples that are left on the tree? Would doing any pruning and water sprouts removal encourage some new leaf growth? Should I fertilize?
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Kimmsr
9 years ago
Apple Scab usually only appears in the spring and there needs to be old, infected leaves around to spread the fungus. I would 1) talk with the horticultural agent at my state universities Cooperative Extension Service office about this and then 2) talk with the nursery where these trees were purchased about replacing diseased trees.
kimpa zone 9b N. Florida.
9 years ago
Spots and Dots...It's fungus you gots! The time to treat leaves is before you see the spots. Fungicides work best by preventing and protecting new growth. Here is a link to information from penn state.

http://extension.psu.edu/plants/gardening/fphg

It is a great, free online book called Fruit Production for the Home Gardener. But of course it is written for Pennsylvania gardeners. Maybe your climate is similar.
Kimmsr
9 years ago
Contact your local office of your state universities Cooperative Extension Service and they will be able to help you more than anyone here can.

Here is a link that might be useful: USDA Cooperative Extension
kimpa zone 9b N. Florida.
9 years ago
You should look at the book, kimmsr. Your extension may not have one for your area. It has so much information that can be applied. As a master gardener volunteer for my cooperative extension, I often send out or quote other state's materials.

It is always a great idea to contact your county office. Sometimes people don't like the solution to their problem though! and by the way, where do you live, original poster?
nateshoe745
Original Author
9 years ago
I live in northwestern Illinois.

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