Thanks you all for the responses. I may have been letting them get "too" dry between watering. Not to the extent they are falling over or anything, but at the first signs of wilt. And yes it's a seed mat, however it isn't on. No, I don't fertilize really. They were started in some MG potting soil, but I'm thinking it may start needing to be fed perhaps? And I should be able to get them out by the end of this month if everything goes well. It's starting to get into the 70's of a day here, but nights are still too cool for peppers. Another thing that I wasn't thinking of that may be an issue is being two plants per pot. So I'll head out today and get some more potting soil and separate them today probably. I did mix up some of my nutrients I use for my hydroponics for lettuce and watered one of the plants that were yellowing, and seems to be turning back to the green it should be so that's great. Will watch them over the next day or two and see how it goes.

William, Because soil friability and drainage varies, and because water percolates down into the soil and evaporates from the soil at different rates, no one can tell you how to water on a 'schedule'. Every one of us on this forum probably has to water our gardens at different rates and for different time frames because our soil and our weather varies. All I can tell you is to keep the soil evenly moist. My peppers get one good soaking weekly from a soaker hose and I water them until the soil is moist about 6" down. How long that takes will vary depending on how dry the soil was when I started, etc. My peppers are in heavy red clay that has been very heavily amended for 10 years with lots of organic material, so it is fairly ideal soil in that it holds moisture pretty well but also drains well because it is a raised bed. I would put all the peppers in the same bed because they do have similar fertility and water needs. Last year was just your 'lucky' year and either the aphids didn't find your plants, or you had 'clean' aphids that hadn't picked up any diseases yet to vector, or your pepper plants had great disease-resistance. This year, your luck ran out. If crookneck squash are falling off, that usually means pollination failed to occur, which is puzzling since the zucchni are pollinating just fine. However, there are a couple of other things it could be as well. First, if by chance, you planted your crookneck squash early and the plants were exposed to very cool temperatures for a few days, that can cause them to be stunted and nonproductive for their entire life. Secondly, it might be one of the rot diseases that sometimes appear on squash and, if it is, it likely is choanephora fruit rot. You'll see this rot in high heat, high humidity conditions. With it, you'll see immature fruit form but then shrivel, turn a very light tannish-brown and will decay or rot. Once this happens, there is not much you can do. There are no organic or chemical controls for this. I just remove and compost all the bad squash, cut back on moisture if possible, and hope that the next squash that pollinate don't have the same issues. To prevent this kind of rot on future plants, plant in raised beds which drain more quickly so the plants don't stay too wet, space the plants far apart to allow for good air circulation, and water less often, preferably with drip irrigation or soaker hoses that put the water into the soil and not on the leaves. Once again, my squash plants get watered once a week deeply and that's it. To much moisture causes all kinds of issues in a veggie garden and I go to the opposite extreme and probably keep my garden a bit too much on the dry side to avoid the diseases. To return to the pollination issue, be sure you're seeing bees and that pollination is occurring. It could be you had bees, they pollinated the zucchini squash and then something happened to the bees and they didn't come back and pollinate the crookneck. Be sure you aren't using any insecticides that might have killed or discouraged the bees. The female blossoms have tiny squash at the end of each blossom. If they aren't being pollinated, they'll turn brown and fall off. The difference in fruit drop caused by a lack of pollination versus fruit rot is that the baby squash don't enlarge and just brown/fall off if it is a lack of pollination, but the fruit begin to enlarge and grow some before turning brown and falling off if it is fruit rot. Dawn

leaf curl is almost always the plant praying for you to give it some magnesium. peppers need magnesium the way tomatoes need calcium. try a foliar feeding with an epsom salt & water solution.

Your Caribbean red looks healthy in the picture, minus the wrinkling. I sometimes have the same problem with the exact plant. I have 10 of them, plus 12 ghost peppers, plus 8 chocolate habas, and a few more different varieties of hot pepper plants. All and All I have over 70 hot pepper plants and have been growing for nine years and even crossed a few species. "NO" it is not a bug problem. Over the years growing hot peppers plants, I have noticed a few things that affect my plants. (1) How hot is it where you live? When a plant grows new leaves at night then gets hammered by very hot days of 100 degrees or hotter like in Texas the structure of the leaves deform especially with little humidity. The cell walls harden before they can fully develop. When I control the sun�s contact everything goes back to normal. People have the idea the more sun the better. That�s "BS" when I control the temperature in my green house below 98 degrees and the sun�s contact my plants get huge. Last year my ghost peppers got over eight feet tall and produced around 100 pounds of product. "Think about it" plants thrive in their habitats� "specific soil, Temperature, humidity, PH, and rain". If you plant them in the ground and did nothing to help them, they would be dead in no time, unless they are native to that area or live in same environment. (2) PH can affect them. Try to save rain water. (3) Try to stay away from over fertilizing them and over watering them. When you do excessive watering your plants will stop absorbing nutrients and they will stop growing roots, keeping them smaller in size. They need to dry out a bit to absorb oxygen unless you are doing hydroponics. I only fertilize around 4 � 5 times a season.