I highly recommend Inca Gold. It has what I describe as a classic 'frangipani' fragrance, similar to Celadine and Singapore, and is almost as strong. It definitely has a 'waftability factor'. I have to say as far as fragrance goes, it is the best of the ones I have. And Iike that it is a pure, solid, bright yellow, instead of mostly white like Celadine. My second is my Key West Red, which is a gorgeous deep red, and smells like roses. Miami Rose is next, while I love the fragrance;coconut, it is very light and doesn't project at all. And I like it's deep pink color. I have to say my biggest disappointment has been my Kauka Wilder. Not only does it not bloom every year, its fragrance is very disappointing. While it is amazing to look at, and I think the colors are even deeper and more intense than they were when it first bloomed, it goes from not having much fragrance at all, to having one that I don't find very appealing. The first time it bloomed, two years ago, I thought the fragrance was kind of a weak version of a blend of rose and jasmine, but this year, I smelled it this afternoon and it had hardly any fragrance at all. I smelled it tonight when I got home from work, and while it had a bit more fragrance, it had that jasmine/rose aspect, but I also smelled radishes! I've smelled a radish or nasturtium-type scent on plumerias before and I find it very odd and unappealing. I remember going to the Dean Conklin Grove on Oahu years ago and smelling what was called a Kauka WIlder tree and loving the fragrance; it smelled like a tropical fruit salad or punch. I vowed I had to have one. I wonder if it was a different tree I was smelling? I've heard that many of the trees in that grove are mislabeled.

Yoo hoo golddust ~ Welcome to the other side LOL. I'm Nora from mid New York State. I've been married for 20 years and we have a 26 yo DS. DH and I got together when Eli was a little over 4 years old and we married when he was six. There is definitely truth in nurture vs. nature because they are like two peas in a pod ;o) We live on 7 idyllic acres in a small hamlet in southern Dutchess County with our pug, Tootie, and kitties Bitsy and Bundles. DS and his GF live in a cottage on our property, which is a blessing. We love to renovate anything that isn't nailed down and it seems that we're in a constant state of flux (no pun intended considering your metier). We also love to garden, which we do with fervor, though not always with as much success as we'd like. The earth tells us what it needs and most of the time we pay attention. But when we don't we learn early on that we should have listened to Mother Nature. Welcome!!

Your plant does look like it has a mite or thrip problem, and photo-oxidation (sunburn) might be an explanation for the large brown areas, but the fact there is significant browning on the margins of the leaves makes me think it might be attributable to one or more of several other possibilities. First, if you are to do a good job at fertilizing, you have 2 important considerations. You have to make sure your plant has all the individual nutrients it normally takes from the soil available in a concentration high enough to ensure there aren't any deficiencies, without the concentration being so high that it actually inhibits water (and the nutrients dissolved in that water) uptake. Something that complicates this issue is, everything that manages to become dissolved in the soil solution, whether the plant needs it or not, has to be considered because it increases the dissolved solids concentration of the soil solution and impacts the plant's ability to absorb water. If you water only until you see a little water in the collection saucer, almost all of the minerals (salts) in your tap water + the fertilizer in your fertilizer solutions is accumulating in your soil. It's a distinct possibility that your plant is suffering from a lack of water, even if you keep the soil wet. Which brings us to keeping the soil wet. Water and nutrient uptake is an energy-driven process. The plant needs plenty of O2 in the root zone to burn (oxidize) the plant food (sugar/carbohydrate) to create the energy that drives the process. W/o sufficient air in the root zone, the plant can't take up water or nutrients efficiently, and the leaf tissues die due to dehydration. So, too high a concentration of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil causes a drought response and spoiled/shedding foliage. Strangely, too much water in the soil (from over-watering, or more frequently a poor soil) also causes a drought response due to lack of O2. Your plant can die of thirst in a sea of plenty. While plants lose foliage due to natural senescence (aging), root-bound conditions is a prime cause of leaves being shed. If your plant hasn't been repotted or potted up (there is a big difference between the two) in the 3 years you've owned it, you can be assured that root congestion is playing a big part in the appearance and vitality of your plant. For best vitality, plants should be potted up BEFORE the root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact. If they are allowed to get to that point, potting up will only partially restore a plant's ability to grow to its potential. IOW - once a plant is allowed to become severely root bound, it will be permanently limited, even if it was planted out (in the ground) at some point, unless the root issues were addressed during a repotting session or the plant was root pruned to correct root issues before planting out. The 3 issues likely to have the greatest impact on your ability to consistently provide conditions that allow your plant to realize as much of its genetic potential as possible are A) a soil that allows you to water correctly w/o having to worry that your soil will remain soggy so long it affects root function (due to lack of O2) or root health (as in root rot) B) the right light C) a fertilizer program that suits the plant's needs - so there are no nutrient deficiencies or excesses. Many things have the potential to severely limit your plants, but you'll make the most forward progress if you concentrate on optimizing cultural conditions in these areas. A plant is like a spinning top. Everything runs smoothly until one of the plant's systems becomes unbalanced, which sets the top to wobbling. If the wobble isn't corrected, it affects other systems and just gets worse, until eventually the top stops spinning. The best growers are those who are able to identify and eliminate the things that are limiting their plants before the top starts to wobble. These observations aren't plant specific - they can be applied to everything we grow in containers. If there is anything specific you'd like to ask ..... Al

hey.. checked on both my plumeria's... neither have sprouted anything... I pulled em out of the soil.. the 1st one's bottom is as solid as the day I bought it... the 2nd one's bottom is a little soft (about 1/4-1/2'' of it)... so my questions are do I cut the 1/2'' of the soft bottom ?? and replant?? I planted both in a very light soil mix in pots... can I take em out of the pot they are in, and replant in perlite in a clear 16oz water bottle so I can see any progress of roots growing?? ... I don't have any 1 or 2 litte bottles... thanks