If placing the cutting directly into a glass of water is your only option, I suppose it is worth a shot.

That is not a recommended way to root cuttings. There is no way for the stem to get oxygen and slime will easily build up and rot the stem.

I would recommend placing the cutting under a humidity dome in moist potting soil, perlite, rockwoll, etc. Short of a humidity dome you can cover the cutting in plastic.

I've seen rooting hormone in every large hardware store with a garden center. You will find a larger selection at a hydroponic store.

The trick to cuttings is to keep them moist and humid without rotting them. Cut down on tranpiration by removing all but a couple leaves. Cut the leaves that are left in half to cut down on transpiration. Rough up the end of the stem a little (that helps encourage roots). Rooting cuttings requires a little patience and a lot of gentle care. If your lucky, you'll have a high rate of success. If you go into it expecting a high rate of failure, you'll be twice as happy when you get a good clone.

An inexpensive cloner can be built out of a very small rubber maid tub and an air pump for a fish tank. Place a bubble wand across the bottom of the tub and drill small holes in the lid to hold your cuttings. As the air bubbles burst on the surface of the water they sprinkle the cuttings with a fine mist of water. I place a second tub upside down over the whole thing to keep humidity high until roots appear and they need more air. I've had good success using this type of cloner and I haven't been using my rooting hormone (just plain old tap water). I think it cost me about 15 dollars.

Jdog006,

Can you post a pic of your set-up? I am very interested in seeing it. I am trying to learn more about how to successfully root pepper cuttings. It's my project for 2006.

Chris

I will try to remember to post a pic when I get home tonight.

opqdan,

sounds like you are on track. imo you might see roots any day. I hope you have been replacing your water every 3-7 days. if you add an aquarium bubbler stone to your water you would get faster results. the hormone helps get faster and better results. you can get it at wal-mart. everyone has a wal-mart. you can also steep willow tree branches into a tea and cool to get the hormone but i've never done that.

Michael

btw - my prefered method for cuttings
1 inch thick sheet of styrofoan with holes drilled in for the cuttings. brush rooting hormone on the stem after cutting and scraping.
float this on a tub of water that has some heat (75-80 deg) and an aquarium bubbler. for me they seem to take @ 2 weeks to start to root. about 3-4 weeks from cut date to potting date.
doing cuttings this way i can go into hydro settups or dirt.

Very nicely illustrated jt.

JohnF

John showme,
yes very nice illustration. i had read about air layering while reading up on bonsai trees. using the peat pellet like that has to make it look very easy. looks like you dont even scar the branch first. thanks for sharing.

Michael

before rooting compounds were invented they used to root things by setting them in water for a good week to 10 days depending on the plant. this softens up the outside so the roots can grow. this is the same thing the rooting compound does faster. then they put the stem into soil to root. you dont need rooting compound now and it might hurt them. rooting compound is for fresh cuts not ones that are in water for a week.

Dip n Grow is cheap and works fine. many professionals prefer this.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=rooting+cuttings

In hydro, I see roots in 7-21 days and use no gel or ammendments of any kind.

Make sure all your cutting tools are sterile.

willard can you be more specific to your method. always interested in new stuff or angles.

Michael

Koolguymike,

Can you post a pic of your set-up with the bubbler?

Chris

I take a top axial slip and do a 45 deg cut with sterile scissors, and cut off one set of leaves nearest the cut leaving at least 2 sets of leaves on the slip.

I have been experimenting with side branch axials and, so far, they work as well as top axials.

I put the slip in a rockwool cube (a small one), put cube in a basket with grow rocks and put it in aero/hydro.

Willard,
"and put it in aero/hydro"..... that the one with the lil sprinklers/misters?

Chris,
I can take a pic for you. I have to dig out my stuff and there wont be cuttings in it.

Michael

John method works well because he included two nodes.The nodes are the most active growing area (the cell can become anything roots, leaves)

Any pussy willow or weeping willows growing near you? At my home in the 70s & 80s (7 natural springs) there was a large weeping willow and I planted several pussy willows just for the natural hormone they produce. Easy to grow and now is a good time to find them at garden centers.

Thanks for all of the great suggestions. My attempt was really just a test to see if it would happen, but now that I know there are better ways to root the cuttings I think I will try that.

I think I will try the air layer method, but how do I know if it has rooted? Eventually I would need to remove the new plant from the stem (I assume I could cut directly below the peat pellet), but how do I know when it is ready?

I may try some other methods too, and if I remember I will update on my progress in a few weeks.

> ...but how do I know when it is ready?

It was suggested by fellow pod-head AllenB (Florida horticultural instructor) to enclose the peat pellet with something that would block the light so that new roots would show themselves rather than hide from the light. I'm content to leave as is for 3 weeks or longer before unwrapping and checking, but it would be so easy to just enclose with some tinfoil and check every now and then for visable roots.

Product that I bought last year but have not yet tried--after reading about John's experiments

Here is a link that might be useful: Lee Valley

"1 inch thick sheet of styrofoan with holes drilled in for the cuttings."
How much of the base of the stem is exposed after sticking it through the hole in the styrofoam?
Doesn't the hormone come in contact w/ the water? That would wash the hormone off, wouldn't it?

I may attempt to root some plants or trees this year.

Paul B.

actually it is 1/2 inch. 1 inch was just sloppy typing by me.
1-3 inches of stem into the water. trimed nodes and scarred end.
yes hormone comes in contact with water. I use gel. any that wont stay mixes in the water which doesnt get replaced, because of the bubbler keeps the water oxygenated.

Michael

Chris,
found some pics of my settup. no cuttings in it though.

Michael

Here is a link that might be useful: bubble cloner

about 3-4 weeks. ive got some hungarian hot wax that are just now starting to root 10 weeks later. lemon drop didnt want to root at all. rocoto red rooted easily and quickly. i use olivia's or a powdered rooting hormone and rockwool.

If you drill a small hole just for the stem to go through then it seems to me it would be stuck.

How do you get the plants with the new roots out of the Styrofoam when you are ready to plant? Do you cut the foam??

"The Rooter Pot" looks pretty sweet for trees but too big for plants like peppers and tomatoes.

Over all though it seems pretty easy to copy with tiny plastic pots, a peat pellet, and rooting hormone.

If you want to make one that lasts I was thinking of cutting the pot in half and attaching little hinges on one side and a latch on the other. Those teeny pots that they sell cacti in at Home Depot seem like they would fit the peat pellets.

Just support with a stick and there you go!

I like the idea of "Air Rooting" more then fighting with rot and keeping the cats off the bubbler exc.

I canÂt wait to try Air Rooting on a nut or fruit tree though My patio may be small but an air rooted tree should be good for a few years until it gets too big!

Thanks for all the picÂs and links!

I wonder why all these suggestions are for rooting in water, when it seems like I heard/read that the plant
then has to form all new roots for soil? I have noticed
that a plant rooted in water doesn't just take off in
glee once it is planted in great soil. Even easy mint
doesn't go as fast as expected. Any ideas? -- Mel

Mel,
i think i am the only one suggesting that in this thread.

yes roots formed in water are hydro roots not soil roots and the plant has to change to soil roots. it is best to transplant into soil as soon as a root is seen on the plant.

Personally I can not believe all this fuss about rooting. peppers should root very easy in soil.

get a test tube. 12 or 13 mm by 2 1/2 to 3 inches long. put in a few drops of Dip n Grow and almost fill with water. you will want a cheap plastic eyedropper for this.

drop the cut into the test tube and let sit for a minute. now remove and stick into damp soil. stand back and keep warm. it should root.

the longer the stem under the soil the better. but do not let the pot sit in water or it will rot the stem. just keep it wet but not super wet. the stem needs lots of air.

if you use 50 50 coarse potting soil and perlite you should have some oxygen down there. coarse sand works great. boil the sand to sterilize it.

keep the leaves in a high humidity but dont spray the leaves with water. you want the cut to need roots.

use low light level. you are not trying to grow the plant. just keep it alive. fluorescents work good. one light bulb is good. dont need 2 like in a shop light. or put on the edge or in the shade. but keep it warm. 75 F should be good. even up to 80 F.

dip n grow will probably use 1 drop dip to 10 drops water. but one in 5 is stronger and might work better. you dont have to measure it. just estimate in the test tube. somewhere from 1 in 5 to 1 in 10.

if you dont want to buy dip n grow then you can use plain water. stand the cuts in water for 7 to 10 days changing the water as often as practical. at least once a day. an air bubbler in the water is good too. then plant the cutting in soil and it should root.

the water soak softens up the surface and makes it ready to root.

the stem should be in the dark to root.

I dont like air layering because the plant gets all it needs from the natural roots. so it can take a long time to root. but if you have a cutting with no roots then it better form roots fast or die. works better.

when you root things make sure everything is new and sterile. no germs around.

opqdan,
are your cutting still going? roots yet? just wondering.

Michael

They seem to be doing fine. I have one stem with leaves in soil, and one in a wet paper towel. I Also have one leaf cutting (half a leaf plus the leaf node) in a paper towel and one in just water. The leaf cutting in the paper towel is the only one that I shows signs of rooting with 2 roots about 1mm long. I will be moving it to soil at the end of the week before they can grow too big. The advantage of rooting them out of the soil is that I can see the roots and guarantee that something will happen.

The stem in the paper towel shows some action at the nodes (swelling, healing of the razor cut), but no roots. I'll let you guys know if it ever does.

I had an air layering experiment going, but accidentally split the stem and ended up cutting it and placing it in soil, we'll see how that turns out.

All of the cuttings are from the same plant.

organic_nut, do you have an resources that point out physiological difference between hydro and soil roots? I looked (very) quickly, but the only ones I could find were some gardenweb posts in the hydro forum.

I dont have any resources. I would try

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=plant+propagation&btnG=Search

you should put some work into it. that is the fun of the hobby. reading and learning and experimenting and having success.

Can't find my notes as to times but a few years back I tried a bunch of varieties--mostly just to see what would happen. I remember a pretty wide range of times with some rooting quickly and others taking quite a bit longer. I use rooting hormone and stuck them in vermiculite.

organic_nut,
It is very offensive when one asks a question and somebody responds with a simple Google search. Presupposing that I do not know how to use Google to search for what I need, is disrespectful and FAR from helpful. The following quote about the fun of the hobby was probably the most offensive thing anybody has said to me on this forum and I DO NOT appreciate it. I love this hobby and I love researching this hobby. I love it so much that when my B.S. in Computer Engineering is finished I plan on returning to school to work on Horticulture.

Of course I did the same thing (although if you think that the search term "plant propagation" is going to return usefull results on the difference between these roots, then you need some lessons on effective search techniques) and found nothing that was helpful to me. Nothing even mentioned that there could possibly be a difference.

Not doing the work yourself ("I dont have any resources", not filtering the results), and then following it with a comment about how I should enjoy the research (that you did not do yourself) makes me think that you are far less concerned with helping people, than seeming superior by rehashing unfounded ideas.

At this point all I can assume is that you simply made it up or heard it in passing. It is up to you to provide reference for statements that you make, not others. If there is eviddence (and I am still looking) then your point stands, all I asked was for information, not a lesson in Google.

OMG opqdan.

I suggest that the next time you ask a question you also include a list of acceptable and not acceptable answers. I assumed wrongly that you were open to any and all answers.

I suggest that if you are sensitive to answers that you do not ask questions. and if you do ask questions that you will just have to be open to the answers that are provided.

thinking and love are opposed to each other. thinking will always decide to not love. thinking has no idea what love is. I suggest you stop thinking and try loving.

everything you wrote came from your thinking. it has nothing to do with the love inside of me. all the judgements you make about me are always judgements about yourself. All that you wrote was a way for you to see what you need to spiritually heal inside of yourself.

remember rule #1. It is always always impossible for any person to ever judge another person. we are always judging ourself. besides we are all ONE. so when you look at me, you are really seeing yourself.

You are my spiritual brother in Oneness with me through Love.

Please embrace everything that has happened here as you will then have great spiritual progress. for I have come here in Love so that you may look upon me to show you what you need to heal. the spiritually enlightened know at all times that every word I have said to you, you have asked me to say to you. the feelings you feel are the feelings you wanted to feel. for these are the feelings you need to spiritually heal. and feeling them give you the opportunity to heal them when you decide and embrace that

I DID NOT DO WHAT YOU THINK I DID.

Peace and Spiritual Love

O Nut

I will ignore the on my (apparently non-existant) capacity to love and your proselytizing and stick to the matter at hand.

It is far too often around here (and in the other various gardening forums) that somebody asks a question and another responds with a Google search which they think is being helpful. It is a dismissive comment that implies the person asking the question has not done any research. Whether this was your intention or not, now you know for future posts.

Anyways, to put this topic back on its tracks: you mentioned that plants grow different roots depending on whether it is water or soil that they are growing in. I asked for evidence, or references. I would appreciate anything that you have on this subject. I assume that you must have something, as the idea had to come from somewhere. I am not attacking the idea. I have no knowledge of whether it is true or not, I simply thought it was interesting and had never heard it before. I am always up to learning something new, that is why I would like to know more. Please help me with this, my research has turned up nothing. I need you to point the way.

Peach and Love back at you.

boys, boys, boys

I've been thinking about this issue & why there might be a difference. If I'm right, what it comes down to is oxygen:

I think it's safe to say that plant roots need some oxygen, whatever type & no matter where they formed. So the difference between a liquid non-aerated environment and a medium (including a liquid) with aeration (ie bubbles of air) would be how the plant roots get at the oxygen that is present.

In a plant rooting in a glass of water, the rooting tissue only has access to disolved oxygen, not air. So those roots have to get their oxygen in disolved form--like a beta fish breathing through its gills, the plant uses roots best suited for a disolved oxygen rich environment.

In a plant rooting in an aerated liquid, on the other hand, the rooting tissue would be able to use either the disolved oxygen or the air bubble oxygen--like a beta using its labyrinthine organ, the plant uses roots best suited for an atmostpheric oxygen rich environment.

(please note that I said "uses": I'm assuming the beta & plant have both options already available to them biologically)

My guess is that either method would work for growing roots provided that the disolved oxygen in the first wasn't allowed to deplete. However, when forced into an aerated environment, those roots would still be relying on disolved oxygen...

fledglingardening, It is an interesting idea, and I agree that it even seems plausible, but plausible does not mean that it occurs. I still have not found any references noting that there is a difference.

I think that you hit upon a good point though that the roots have both capacities available to them. I think that this is probably the case. A root grown in water (with DO) would then require no physiological change to then grow in soil.

Anyways, the cutting and the leaf in the soil seem to both be doing well. I have no way of telling whether or not they are growing roots, but they have not wilted so that seems to be a good sign. There has been no new growth, so I assume that any root system is not yet extensive enough to allow for the plant to begin growing above the soil.

It's a good thing I have all these clones going, I accidentally sunburned 2/3 of the leaves off of the original. I'm hoping that it survives (it should), but just in case, I now have an insurance policy.

opqdan,
the theory I use is when the growth tip starts growing again you have roots. Since I can see my roots untill I pot them I can safely say if your growth tip is growing you have a very good start at a root ball and you can treat it as a plant again and not just a cutting.

Michael

something else to ponder,
after a plant has a large root ball uncover the top of the roots and you can watch them change to bark-if you know my meaning. this has been shown in bosai and all trees. still no indication of water roots. just soil and air, or rather covered or exposed roots.

If google is for researching, why do people get mad when a google link appears? You asked a question, you got an answer. Say thanks and keep going. Just like our pepper plants, you reep what you sow.

Good luck guys with the pepper plants! I am getting my first plant today and looking forward to caring for it.

Peeing contest:

And appropriately statues pissing since this is an 8 y/o thread.

In regards to chilli cuttings in water, I see alot of people saying it either cant be done or is very hard.. I have had a huge success taking Trinidad Moruga Scorpion cuttings, I took a lot when I was pruning our 2 year old plants, and each and everyone has been a success so fare. I start by letting them root in water, changing the water once a week, then when I see two or more single roots form I begi. adding a very small amount of soil with a few days apart, when I add the soil I see that the singel roots start to form smaller roots shooting out of its sides, growing a very healthy root system. I have also somethimes added a small amount of H2o2 to a water solution wich I gave them a very little of. when I see the roots are good and pleanty I have also given them a touch of chilli liquid fertilizer, this is my first time taking cuttings from chillis, and it is going great, I also did

it with our citrus chilli and they too are a success. After they have been it the water with the soil for awhile, I then plant them directly in a ph 6 soil with sand. It will take about a month for roots to show up, but then it grows fast. Just my personal experience.

PS I tested some with rooting hormone and some that did not have it, all of them was a success.