Go to the bottom of opening page and type "germination" in search function.

Your question is not unique.

It may be the seeds you are purchasing. Trades or gifts from the great people on this site seeds have always germinated for me. Also less is more, using tea? I germed super hots using paper towel, water, ziplock bag and DVR. You said you have a heat mat so as long as you have a good potting mix search 5-1-1 mix and keep around 80 degrees should not have an issue.

Yep, tons of info on germination of pepper seeds. Just search for "Germination Pepper". Otherwise, if you have a specific question you cannot find an answer to, just ask here and you will get plenty of help. There are many causes for poor germination and after researching a bit, you will likely find the cause of your low success rate.

Bad seed, incorrect moisture and improper heat are the major factors in poor germination. do the search and after reading, you will have a good understanding of what the problem is. If you still have specific questions, ask away.
Bruce

It almost sounds like you're trying too hard. There's probably one thing that is off and causing you all this grief.

I have had mixed success with germination (both peppers and tomatoes). One set this year I had near 0 success, another I had about 90%. I think I let them dry out too much once, and over compensated and some were too wet after that. I also did the dome and heat mat (but, not orchid mix or tea). I had better success when I removed the dome and just moistened the soil with a mist/spray bottle as needed.

So, my advise is to simplify and change something up. You have all the pieces, you just have to find the balance.

Regarding where to get the seeds, I got them from peppermania and tomatogrowers this year. Both have Guajillo, tomatogrowers had a thai. First year for me growing those varieties.

Guajilo is the dried form of Mirasol chile. But I can understand your frustration with germinating chile. But its not that difficult. This is my 1st year growing toms and chile from seed.
Not sure where you are located, but I started my chile (poblano"ancho for dry" & pasilla de bajo "chilaca/ negro for dry") in February, and transplanted in Aril.
...
Most big box stores have chile, 40 miles to the closest one? Where are you? Alpine?
T

Thanks for all the feedback guys/gals. Let me start off with my follow-up by saying I'm not a complete noob to pepper growing--- I've actually had pretty good success, but SOMETIMES the seeds just don't germinate! That's why it seems I'm so frustrated. I just hate to waste 3 weeks waiting, then to find out I have to start again---wait another 3 weeks, the next thing you know, it's April and the nurseries are carrying some of the "flavors" you want but not the others you want.

Now, onto the feedback--- I've read a ton regarding chile growing ever since I started about 6 years ago. That's why I'm simply asking for a true "best" way to germinate chile seeds. Certainly, there must be an "expert" amongst you all. I thought I was trying to be "specific." Please excuse me all if I've been vague

willard3:

I did a search for "germination" and 16,000 results came up. I was hoping you may point me to a few posts(or even websites) YOU may know of that you may have found to have GREAT information on the tricks of CHILE seed germination. Thank you.

habjolokia: I did a searcg for 5-1-1 mix and 22,000 results came up. This 5-1-1 mix interests me since I've read that chiles don't like too much peat and the seed starting formula I've been buying is peat based I believe(E.B. Stone, Jiffy, Miracle-Gro). Can you possible point me to a specific post where I can read up on this mix.

Thanks.

Esox07: "pepper germination" equaled 2,700 searches. Like I've mentioned, I'm not a complete novice and I've done a ton of reading on the issue, but could you possibly point me to a few posts or websites that have helped you with your chile germinating endeavors? Thank You.

tsheets: LOL. Sounds to me you have about as much success and cluelessness as I when it comes to this particular issue. I've tried changing things up and sometimes get great results... That, I guess is what I'm trying to eliminate. I'm getting old and I just want to take my seeds EACH January, get them germed, starting growing the little babies and then in late March, early April,get them in the ground The rest is gravy. One of the most carefree crops I've grown once their established. I'm thinking it just might be the seeds. I've gone the cheap route thus far--- ferry morse, burpee, and saved seeds up to this point. Next winter, I guess I'll invest in some mail order seeds. Thanks.

Tonio: Yep... frustration is the key word because I KNOW it's not the climate---LOL Actually, you misunderstood me. I'm in Santee, which is about 40 miles from Vista-- I think it's Altman Farms that supplies the Lowe's here in Santee.

In closing to all, I guess I'm just looking for the equivalent to the Cannabis Growers Library when it comes to chile germination. You know, a site or post that's the unchallenged authority when it comes to chile seed germination and growing.

Thanks to all. Happy Capsaicin Day! ;)

You will have to spend some of your effort to answer your germination question, there is no silver bullet that pops fully grown from the forehead of Zeus.

Read the search results and change your search query until you get what you want.

I'm currently experimenting with outdoor germination. I recently performed a test run with fresh hab seeds which resulted in 100 percent success, I would be happy to share specifics:

The Mix (Modified 5-1-1):

4 1/2 parts pine bark (range: 1/8" - 1/2")
1/2 part pine bark (range: 1/16" - 1/8")
1/2 part coarse perlite (range: 1/8" - 1/4")
1/2 part coarse perlite (range: 1/16" - 1/8")
1/2 part turface (range: 1/8" - 1/4")
1/2 part turface (range: 1/16" - 1/8")

1 tbsp dolomite lime per gallon of finished mix.

I use this mix for all of my container plants, and it appears to be very good for seeds as well - although I'm thinking that I may alter the seed starting formula to a 1-1-1 with a smaller range of bark....more like a gritty. When planting the seeds, I just made a very shallow impression on the top layer, placed the seeds, then covered them with a thin layer of turface (range: 1/16" - 1/8"). I germinated these outside in bright shade, as the temps here are perfect. I simply covered each cell with an inverted disposable clear plastic cup for extra humidity (I don't have a picture of that stage).

I'm currently keeping them in full sun in my little homemade seed hut, as you may have seen in my last thread. Eventually they will be moved to some variation of this design (I've got some new ideas for them as they get bigger!!):

Anywho, that's what I did and it seems to be working well so far.

Good Luck!

PJ

wiilard3:

I HAVE spent lots of effort and querying and searching and asking. I think I mentioned that in my original post. Hence the frustration in my tone. Sorry, I thought maybe some of you experts could point me in the right direction instead of suggesting that I read 16,000 posts on a suggested query with 15,900 of those posts having nothing to do with the original query or posters taking the subject of the topic and going off on tangents. I wasn't asking you to come to San Diego and water and hand pollinate my garden. I just thought that maybe somebody in the forums might have a surefire way for chile germination--being that I've noticed it to be a problem for many gardeners.

Thank you for, at least, responding and trying to help.

DaMonkey007:

Thanks for the formula. Yeah. It's a tad cooler in the winter here than it is in FL. My problems really hasn't been getting them to be healthy seedlings. It's pretty much emergence or no emergence from the soil that I have had some problems with. If I do get emergence, I usually get them going pretty good by artificial light in the garage in January. Little bit too cool here to put them outside. The more and more I think about it, I'm leaning toward the seeds themselves may be the problem. Anyhow, thanks for the info.

Here is what works for me and I get 90% germination. I start seeds from prior year harvest in MG Orchid mix also used 1/2 MG Orchid mix 1/2 Organic soil both work just as well. Place next to heat vent (I start my seeds between Dec-Feb)

I am sure it's that the older the seeds get the lower the germination success. If you could get seeds that are fresh a year old would be ideal for success.

I also have used the wet paper towel ziplock bag method placed on the DVR though this method 85% germination rate.

I will see about the 5-1-1 mix post for you, I got to get it anyways as next season I plan on using it.

What do you have to lose? Give this a try:

Remove some seeds from a fresh pepper, or some seeds that are not more than a year or so old that have been stored properly. Myself, I just air-dried a store bought hab that I got about a week ago. I don't think that its necessary to even dry out the pepper, fresh is OK. The skin of peppers contain germination inhibitors, so the seeds need to be washed. I rense them off and place them in some weak tea for 24 hours in the refrigerator. How weak? I just want to see some color in the water from the tea ( I drink tea every day, so I just grab a used tea bag and squeeze out the remaining moisture and add enough water to wet a paper towel with the seeds between a single fold to fit into a sandwich baggie. After an overnight stay in the frig, I set the seeds (still in the baggie) some place around 70 deg until they germinate. Most of my seeds germinate now that I have started using this procedure (90%)on average.

I found information about washing off the inhibitors in this publication:

SEED GERMINATION 993
THEORY
AND PRACTICE
SECOND EDITION
Norman C. Deno, Professor Emeritus of Chemistry
Published June 1, 1993
(Second Printing November 1, 1993)
Based on Experiments on 145 Families, 805 Genera, and about 2500 Species Every species has some mechanism for delaying germination until after the seed has been dispersed. The Science of Seed Germination is
the discovery and description of such mechanisms and the development of procedures for removing them so that the seeds can germinate.

To Plant a Seed Is a Noble Deed
Propagation Is Conservation.

It can be found online as a PDF file if you are interested.

Here is another method:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dj-M3mj1AA4

I never had very good results until I started washing the seeds. The overnight refrigeration is probably not necessary, but I just happened to read this method on another posting and tried it. It worked well for me, and so, as the old sying goes, "if it aint broke, don't fix it". So I didn't bother trying without the refrigeration. But according to the good professor Norman Deno, all that is necessary is at least 4 hours of washing (maximum) which I took to mean putting them in a water tight container like a tupperware with a lid and agitating them in water ever so often over a 4 hour period. I however just wash them once and then go to the weak tea solution and refrigeration. If nothing else, you can prove me wrong, but I think you will be pleased if you give it a try.

BTW I grew up in El Cajon, 63 Grad ECVHS chuck

Here is a link that might be useful: you-tube video

The fool-resistant method that will surely show up in a search

Clean you hands and tools and get a zip lock bag and sheet of paper towel. Fold paper towel in half

Spread chile seeds on paper towel

Insert paper towel in zip lock bag and wet paper towel.....wet, not soppy.Close zip lock bag. Put in a place that is 85F (measure, don't guess) and wait.

I think you're just seriously overdoing it. In my experience, the tea, the heating pads, the domes, they just aren't necessary. Says you're in zone 10, it must be plenty hot outside for you already.

Just get some potting mix, put it in a small container on the porch, water it, put the seed in, and cover it with a quarter inch or so of soil, and then let it be. The more you fuss over it the worse its going to get.

I agree with Edymnion. What I do is put 2-4 seeds in each starter container. I used 3.5" ones this year so I put 4 seeds in each. Keep the soil moist but not soaking wet. If you are in zone 10, you won't have any trouble keeping the seeds at 80-85 degrees without using external heating. Within 7-10 days, you will likely see 50% or better germination and within 20 days, you will likely see 80% plus. With 4 seeds in each container, you will likely be cutting 2-3 of them off after you decide which of them is the more healthy looking. I use MG Orchid Mix. It is tried and true and works well.

One thing I would differ on with Edymnion is that I plant closer to 1/8" deep than 1/4". But anywhere between those two depths should work good. And soaking the seeds for 2-4 hours in warm water before planting won't hurt.

Remember, you dont need any light until after they sprout. If you are having problems with germination, I would look at 4 things:
1. Seed viability - bad seeds?
2. Soil - basic well draining soils are all you need (some say dont use peat - others never use any thing but peat)
3. Moisture - are you over watering them or letting them dry out completely?
4. Heat - keep the temps between 70 and 90 (80-85 is best)

Bruce

Chuck:

Thanks for all the great info. The idea about using fresh peppers I've tried and actually had good to great success that way. In fact, I actually got some dried guajillos and chile de arbol and those even sprouted(still waiting on some pasilla/ancho). The seeds that I seem to have had most problems with are store bought Ferry morse or Burpee and I pretty much have convinced myself that it has been the SEEDS all along. I'm probably just going to harvest my own seeds(although that may be a slow problem because isolating from cross pollination is difficult to do at a tract home...LOL). Santee Santana High '82.

Willard3:

No. I haven't tried that method yet. /sarcasm :)
Like I said before, thanks for at least some form of feedback--albeit not the "expert" knowledge for which I was looking.

Edymnion:

You are correct. Plenty warm. Now.

But, I like to take advantage of the long growing seasons. I can truly get 8 months on warm weather crops. But if I don't get seedlings into the ground until late June/early July, I only get a couple months of fruiting. I'm beginning to believe it's the seeds. Like I mentioned in the beginning post, it's not supposed to difficult to get a seed to at least SPROUT. Thanks for the feedback. I was beginning to think that it might be something I was doing wrong.

Esox07:

Thanks. Orchid mix, huh? Perhaps I'll give that a shot. Is it also good for tomatoes, squash and any of the brassicas?

The four items you mentioned, viability of seeds seems to be the item that may be something that I didn't WANT to believe. One would think that seed companies that have been around as long as Ferry Morse and Burpee would be able to put out decent chile seeds.

Thanks for the feedback everybody.

I presprout using a method similar to willard's. I can see which seeds have sprouted and can plant them into pots, no second-guessing whether they will germinate or not.

whoohooman:
They orchid mix would probably be good for container plant that requires good drainage.
As far as isolating your peppers so that you get pure seed, try the bagging method where you construct a bag out of "Tule" fabric and "bag" a branch on your plant with several unopened blooms. The blooms have no choice but to pollinate themselves or each other as no insects can get in. Tule fabric is sold in any sewing store...I get mine at Walmart in the craft section. It is about two bucks for a yard of material.

Here are a couple photos of a Naga that I bagged last year.

Very nice plants Bruce. As far as germination, I'm in zone 10 as well. All I did was put them outside for a few hours each day just to get the soil warm and then had them under grow lights for the rest of the time with a timer having light on them from 6am till 11pm. Simple as that.

Donna in Sask:

I've also done it that way with great success--- at times.

It's when I get a BRAND NEW pack of seeds and do it that way and not one seed sprouts that I feel like I've done something wrong. I guess I just may be overthinking this--- keep damp at warm temps and if nothing sprouts, it's the seeds! LOL

Esox07:

That's a great idea. Obviously you want to isolate some blossoms that are very young and haven't had a chance to fully bloom. Correct? Also, so the orchid mix you're NOT recommending to actually start the seedling? What medium are you using to start the seedling?

Muskaman67:

I like to get an early start--like in January. It's a tad to cool outside at that point in the year. What I usually do is use the baggie method on a heating mat until I see some sprouts. Pull some. Put some in cells with some seed starting mix and then back on the heating pad they go until leaves emerge. Then off the pad and under lights for the next 10 or so weeks. That's when things go right. It's when I don't get one sprouted in the baggie that I start to question my actions. It's a loss of 3 weeks and I certainly can't go back to home depot/lowes and pick up another pack--- those seeds will be from the same lot #. I guess I'll just resign myself to harvesting my own seed or buying them online.

Anybody recommend some good online stores? Anybody try New Mexico Chile Institute run by New Mexico State University?

Bruce: Yeah. Nice plants. Btw, what's in the big 1 gallon milk jug?

woohooman - a lot of people do use the orchid mix for seed starting.

I would think using the baggie method would be pretty telling. You can see if the seeds have popped / sent out a tap-root. It's when they are in mix from the start that you really start guessing. It sounds like you have just had some bad or very stubborn seeds. Particularly since you have had good success as well.

New Mexico CPI is a great source for seeds. Others that I have used and never heard anything bad about are tomatogrowers.com and peppermania.com

Whoohooman: Yes, Isolate a branch that has just buds on it. If there are a few on the section that have already opened, then just snip them off. Be sure to make the bag much bigger than the branch, as the branch will grow a lot. Keep the bag on until you get the number of pods to set that you want, then you can take the bag off but be sure to mark the pods. I just tie a little piece of white string around the stem of the pods. That way you know which were isolated and which were not.

And regarding Orchid Mix. I use that to start my seeds. It is a good medium and has some built in nutrients to get started. When I pot up, I recommend a 5-1-1 mix. The Orchid Mix would probably be a good solution but it is very expensive to be filling 5 and 7 gallon pots with the stuff.

The gallon jug was just some old water that I had in there. It was pretty rank by that point. I just put it in the photo for a size reference.

Bruce

Bruce:

Thanks for all the help. Yeah. I've been using the standard seed starting mixes in small pony pack cells or peat pots and then after they have a few sets of leaves, I transfer them to larger 3 or 4 inch pots with a mix of the same mix and some potting soil until their ready to go in the ground.

You mention 5 and 7 gallon containers--- are they large enough to allow CHILE plants to reach full size? I grew 2 habaneros last year and one is is a 5 gallon container and the other was in one of those half oak barrels along with a cayenne and the one in the 5 gallon was much smaller and less productive.

I see you're in Wisconsin. Maybe your season ends before they reach full size but here in So Calif., I can still be harvesting in January if a frost doesn't hit me.

Thanks again for all the info.

Yah, I dont know for sure. I am sure your will grow bigger no matter what size container you use due to the longer season. Most people say minimum 3 gallon. Many say 5 gallon or larger is best and a few say nothing smaller than 7 gallon. Personally, I think 5-7 gallon for most varieties is enough. Most of my containers are 7 gallon. My plants were not even close to being root bound when I emptied them last year so I feel no need to go any larger here. My season ends in September however.

Bruce

Just be careful with taking advice on this topic. For one, some people refer to gallons as a reflection of nursury pot sizes, some other use true gallon measurements, which can make things a bit confusing. Also, and more importantly, depending on your growing environment, bigger is not always better. I'll give you an example. We have excessive amounts of rain here in the summer, I'm finding that my peppers in 5 gal pots are STRUGGLING to deal with the daily rainstorms, they just don't have an opportunity to dry - even with the 90 degree temps - and some are showing signs of root problems.

Conversely, my peppers in 3 gal pots are absolutley thriving in this weather, because no matter what happens - they dry out within a few hours of full blast sunshine - which we also get every day. Now, of course your not going to grow 7 foot tall plants in a 3 gal pot, but I would rather grow a few extra smaller plants to compensate, rather than lose all my plants to root rot every summer.

That being said, my plants in the 3 gallon pots are big to my eyes..lol! I'm completely fine with 3 and 4 foot plants! I've taken dozens of ripe pods, with dozons more on the plants, and dozen's of buds in the wings...I'll take that any day of the week.

I guess the point is, that there is no one size fits all answer to "What size pot is the best for my peppers?". It's going to depend heavily on the plant variety, the medium, the weather, your latitude, your altitude, your watering habits, your fertilization habits.....on and on.

Additionally, I think that in most cases people greatly underestimate a plants ability to thrive in a smaller pot, given that the caretaker of the plants is attentive to the needs of said plants, of course. Example: A few weeks ago, I finally pulled 2 cherokee purple tomatoes that were over 8 feet tall, which gave me probably 50 or 60 large fruits EACH from 10 gallon pots. I got that even with a late cycle infection of TYLCV. I hear people swear up and down that you need a 20 or even 30 gallon pot for a large tomatoe to thrive...I do not support this idea...lol, not at all.

Anywho, take from that what you will. Happy planting!

PJ

DaMonkey007:

Thanks for the feedback. In short, so you think a 5 gallon bucket should be fine for a ghost chile plant?

Many many people on this list use 5 gallon buckets...the pail kind that paint and other products come in.
Bruce

Hey Woo,
Sorry for the delay, I didn't see your question @ me. I think that a 5 gallon pot is acceptable for any pepper, given that the environmental conditions allow for it. From my experience, if you have a short(er) season anything larger than 5 gal is just a waste of growing medium, as your plant's roots will never overpopulate that soil volume in that time frame. Although, as I said...under certain circumstances a 5 gal pot might be too big for its own good....it just depends. That being said, for you being in So Cal...with all that perfect weather....if your very proficient with your caretaking, you may just be able to cultivate a plant that outgrows a 5 gallon pot. Either way, it's much easier - and less invasive - to pot up, rather than pot down. So I might suggest starting smaller, with the expectation to pot up if needed - rather than starting too big and being forced to pot down to save your plant.

PJ

Hi, Dbl poster here. I obviously can't spit it out in one post...LOL.

Let me also add that ~some~ of those folks that suggest 7 or 10 gal pots for a pepper plant ~may~ be using soils that support a significant perched water table, thus rendering as much as 20 percent of their soil volume virtually useless for the development and expansion of the fine root system.

Food for thought.

PJ

ok woohooo
i must say i am a bit surprised at what i have NOT heard here on you question...

1) you used a heat mat---does it have a thermostat on it;
if not, then they can reach over 100 degrees and thereby
cooking your seeds......bummer, no germination

2) since you tried the soaked paper towel in bag, on
that heat mat and it didn't work well....well here is
a thought....do the same, only instead of using the
heat mat, go and put it atop your hot water heater and
check in a week to see if any tap root thingy is growing
and if so, pot that sucker up and let her grow....some
will take a week, and others up to 3 weeks

i know this isn't much, but i have done the hot water heater method for the six years previous to this year and always worked fine...its easy...and no mess. This year i tried on a heat mat, in trays with soil and had way worse results. WE bought property last year and so we only have a 5 gal hot water tank hidden by styro foam in a travel trailer....with luck, next year will be more set up.

maybe if you still have some seeds left from those seed packets you've had failures with, try the hot water tank and see if you get any germination....and let us know

lastly, do you have to grow in pots? My in-laws live fairly close to Mt. Soledad and we visited in febuary.
In the backyard i found a jalapeno with 5 red peppers on it, and a 1 1/2 to 2 inch diameter stem, and a few leaves i believe. i grabbed the seeds from one of the pods, ate the pod. those fresh seeds germed in 4 days....fastest for me ever. Overwintered in the ground....i am so jealous. it would be so much easier than starting seeds each year (i would be starting some anyway just because i would have to).
Do you have a place to plant straight into the ground? whatever you do, i hope it all works out and good luck to ya-----bob

ok woohooo
i must say i am a bit surprised at what i have NOT heard here on you question...

1) you used a heat mat---does it have a thermostat on it;
if not, then they can reach over 100 degrees and thereby
cooking your seeds......bummer, no germination

2) since you tried the soaked paper towel in bag, on
that heat mat and it didn't work well....well here is
a thought....do the same, only instead of using the
heat mat, go and put it atop your hot water heater and
check in a week to see if any tap root thingy is growing
and if so, pot that sucker up and let her grow....some
will take a week, and others up to 3 weeks

i know this isn't much, but i have done the hot water heater method for the six years previous to this year and always worked fine...its easy...and no mess. This year i tried on a heat mat, in trays with soil and had way worse results. WE bought property last year and so we only have a 5 gal hot water tank hidden by styro foam in a travel trailer....with luck, next year will be more set up.

maybe if you still have some seeds left from those seed packets you've had failures with, try the hot water tank and see if you get any germination....and let us know

lastly, do you have to grow in pots? My in-laws live fairly close to Mt. Soledad and we visited in febuary.
In the backyard i found a jalapeno with 5 red peppers on it, and a 1 1/2 to 2 inch diameter stem, and a few leaves i believe. i grabbed the seeds from one of the pods, ate the pod. those fresh seeds germed in 4 days....fastest for me ever. Overwintered in the ground....i am so jealous. it would be so much easier than starting seeds each year (i would be starting some anyway just because i would have to).
Do you have a place to plant straight into the ground? whatever you do, i hope it all works out and good luck to ya-----bob

oops, sorry about the double post....don't know why

PJ: Thanks for the reply- Normally everything goes into the ground. I just have a few containers(so far.) The peppers that I put in the oak barrels did great, and that was even with 2 plants in each. The habanero that was in a 5 gal did good also, but it was much smaller than the one in the oak barrel.

I actually overwintered the smaller one because I could move it in and out of the garage(we actually get near freezing and some days freeze. it's in the ground now but after trimming back, I think it's just going to be a small, bushy, stunted thing. No biggy---I like the heat of habanero, but not to crazy about the taste. That's why I was jazzed to go to the nursery the other day and find a thai hot and a ghost ready to join the others in the garden. it's when i read that ghosts are finicky that I got more interested in the whole container 5-1-1 container thing. I may still have to shove the new guys in the ground because I can't find any pine bark.

Anywho...Go Celtics and Thunder!

Bob: Thanks for the reply. :)

Yeah. No thermostat, but I keep it on the low setting---there's no way it's over 80-90. Actually did some guajillos the other day with no probs. I'm guessing it's been the seeds when I've had issues.

Soledad huh? Everybody! Bob married into money! LOL JK ;)

Yeah. Self-harvested seeds I've had great success with also. I'm thinking that I just might buy a fresh pepper each year from the grocery store for each of the varieties I grow (Bell, Anaheim, Pasilla, Jalapeno, Serrano, Poblano, Habanero- even guajillo and chile de arbol in the dry chile section). And any specialty peppers, I'll purchase online from reputable suppliers). I may not even do that any longer since I found out the nursery has ghost chile. Now that Bruce showed me a way to isolate pods, I'll harvest my own also.

I can't really overwinter too much(see above in my reply to PJ). I'm a bit inland here in San Diego County. Soledad may freeze maybe a day or 2 once every few years if they're unlucky.

Hot water heater huh? Not too hot huh?

If you think it may be seeds, I buy my seeds from pepper joe,I get about a 95% germination,alsoI use potting soil and even though you are not suppose to use anything but water to start i use miracle grow starter.

i think everyone built up around them....owned since early 50's. not counting any chickens.(not laughing, but always hoping)

good luck, and no, the hot water tank is not too hot, unless maybe you are using it to run a steam bath

Thanks for all the help everybody. After self evaluation and your feedback, I'm pretty convinced my germination problems pointed most likely to crap seeds.

Burpee and Ferry Morse-- not good suppliers for pepper seeds.

Kevin