They are all safe for plants, and humans, if used correctly. But, they are also contact killers, so usually one can rinse them off a few hours after spraying to prevent "possible" harm, like burning foliage et al. The possible exception would probably be the neem, for it also has anti-feeding properties, so NOT rinsing is a wise choice. Again, as long as the conditions are right. For instance, never spray a pesticide when the temps are above 80F or the sum of both the temp AND the relative humidity is greater than 140. Let's get back to WHAT you were trying to control??? Sounds to me that you visually saw the insects. Next time, take a pic and post it here or in the Garden Clinic forum so it can be identified. After that, it's pretty easy--- You can then attack in the appropriate manner. Drying out? Sure. Peppers like to dry out between waterings anyhow. But first rinse them off real well and if the bugs show back up, take a pic. Good luck. Kevin

The simplest, quickest, easiest way to get rid of Aphids is a sharp stream of water to knock the wee buggers off the plant. A hand held spray bottle does work really well for this because your garden hose pressure could wreak havoc to the plant. If an Insectidical Soap is desired, and it is not really as effective as simply knocking the buggers off the plant, you need a real soap and none of the "dish soaps" are soaps. The "dish soaps" are detergents which can cause serious harm to plants. Murphy's Oil Soap is a real soap and can be used just as an of the other real soaps. Mix 1 teaspoon of that soap in 1 quart of water. More often than not when spraying the IS on Aphids you knock the wee buggers off the plant anyway so adding the soap to the water is not all that more effective. Spaying with the IS after you clean that generation of Aphids off the plant may help control the future generations that will be moving in. The best, most effective means of control of Aphids is to be sure the soil your plants are growing in is a good, healthy soil that will grow strong and healthy plants that will be less attractive to insect pests such as Aphids.

I just finished reading this entire post and am so glad I did! I've been using bleach ( or should I say, did use) since spring up to about June, when the hosta first emerged. However, I was using this treatment to combat slugs. It works well. i missed an area and it shows...neglect on my part, sadly..but what a difference.....no slug bite holes in treated area, lots of holes in untreated area! Little did I know I was also keeping nematodes at bay. What a relief! However, I do have a problem with my beautiful Whirlwind that started end of last week.. I just didnt know the problem was nematodes until now. I hate unsightly leaves and when they appeared I ripped them off. . .3 so far! I slacked off with the bleach treatment after June and Whirlwind is one casualty...hopefully one only. I will be treating the plant and area today after reading these posts. Thank you, All for the comprehensive information, especially "Kines's report" , Bruce's area of expertise as a chemical engineer, and "Playinmud" for posting such a valuable thread that drew out all this extremely useful information. I've earmarked it for easy reference as well. I'll be trying your recipe, Playinmud! :-) Grateful, Jo.

thanks for the reply dan! i had read on another website that someone used a homemade insecticide soap against leaf miners which is why i was planning on trying it. i have read some of the many threads on leaf miners, but nothing too promising has been revealed. is there anything you, or anyone else here, has had success with against leaf miners? the most useful advice seems to be to pick off the infested leaves, but that's pretty much going to mean all of my tiny chard plants... any ideas if i can still pick off nearly all the leaves and the plants will still produce new leaves? this is my first year gardening, so any advice is much appreciated! i know that for harvesting the chard you can pick off some stalks and new ones grow, it's just that my largest plant is only a few inches tall at this point, so i'm worried about the resilience of such small plants. and any reason why i shouldn't use murphy's or other soaps on plants/leaves that i plan on eating? thank you!