What type of peppers are they?
C. chinense and some C. baccatum types are slow growers until weather and/or soil conditions warm to their satisfaction.
In my experience, C. annuum types seem to grow quicker w/ a lesser regard for warm conditions.

What are your peppers receiving for light? Natural or artificial? If artificial; fluorescent, incandescent or other? What duration of light?

I started germinating 3/6. My plants are still in starter mix in 8.5 oz. cups. Up until a few days ago, they were under fluorescents 15 hrs./day and average 9"-10", some 12"-14". They now sit in my hobby greenhouse where they'll be hardening off for a few weeks. To this point I haven't applied any fertilizer and don't believe I will until they're planted permanently in the garden.

Paul B.

I was hoping to see you in here Paul. I am a novice gardener of about 4 years but I seem to have a green thumb. I read about your epson salt spray you use in another thread - "Opinions on highest yielding HOT chili"
How soon do you start spraying your plants?
Do they also "green up" right after you spray them?
Think you said 20 g to a gallon? 20g = ?ml or ?tsp
I was interested in what you said and went to spray mine. I am not sure of the mix but I think it was about a tbsp in a gallon. My plants mostly were planted around the 2nd week of January along with a few cuttings about the same age. I am also growing inside under a 400w mh. blah blah blah anyway -> the next day they were all so dark green I thought my light was not all the way on. lol. They also seemed to have a growth spurt but that could be 'mental' lol.

tan thumb - good luck and sorry i dont know much to give any solid info for you. have fun

Michael

Hi koolguymike. I'll attempt to address your questions /concerns regarding an Epsom Salt spraying regimen.

"Think you said 20 g to a gallon?"
I make 2-liter batches of a 2% solution (20 grms./liter). Speaking in gallons, the avoirdupois equivalent would be approx. 2.8 ozs. per gallon.

"20g = ?ml or ?tsp"
Grams are a constant expression of weight, tsp /tbsp are expressed in volume. With volume, depending on the substance, weight or specific gravity may not be a constant.
Without actually measuring it, my best guess is 2.8 ozs. of Epsom Salts is equivalent to approx. 4-5 tablespoons.
I'm not convinced an exact concentration really matters so long as you have a 1% to 3% solution.

"How soon do you start spraying your plants?"
Giving them time to become established I generally start spraying 1-2 wks. after planting then at 2 week intervals depending on precipitation.

"Do they also "green up" right after you spray them?"
Initially there is noticeable greening up within 2 days and they also take on a much darker, healthier appearance. Thereafter, the plants become bushier setting out many more buds which lead to pods. They ultimately become larger plants in height and width.

Like I said before, there has been much debate here in the past regarding this technique. You have believers (those who have tried it) and dis-believers (those who discount the practice but have never tried it).

I'm one of the believers.

Paul B.

FWIW

Epsom aka Magnesium plus sulphate plus water

Magnesium and sulfate are used in making the plants chlorophyl

My county agent says that epsom should be applied to the soil because the magnesium and sulfate must be seperated for the plant to absorb these chemicals. Magnesium is not available in most fertilizers.

Last year I had read something about mag. not being in most ferts and was said to be good for the lawn to add epsom. I tried this and the results were really good, but I really didnt get all scientific about it. I have the assumption that your lawn also needs more mag.

Paul - I guess it sounds better to weight it then for % reasons.

Byron - Does your county agent say if it will work folir or not?

In the past I had read up on the Mettlander Method (sp?) and they presented some pretty interesting info on the main and trace nutrients plants need.

I am the type to not believe stuff untill I try it myself so when reading info I always take it with a grain of ...salt. lol

Michael

Michael

He said no, the soil chemistry needs to break the compound up.

A couple thoughts.

The leaf epidurmus protects entry to the plant, How does foliar chemistry get into the leaf? AFAIKT even if the minerals made it thru the epidurmus, what is the vascular system used to transfer the minerals to the plant?

If you add 1 tbsp of epsom to the soil per plant, vs spraying a bunch of plants at the 1 TBSP per gal. rate, Who gets more epsom?

Take a box of mirical gro, add Magnesium and calcium, that is your mineral needs for most plants.

Paul,

I don't know what latin species they are, but their common names are Anaheim, Cayenne, & Mulato Isleno. (Side note: the Cayenne's seemed to suffer especially badly from the wet-feet I gave them).

I am in Portland, Oregon which is Zone 7, but that's no matter (yet) as the plants have never seen the outdoors. I'm providing artificial light to them with a 150-watt Wonderlight that is about 2 feet above their tops and with an ambient room temp of about 70degrees. I consistently turn the light on at 5-6AM when I get up and off at 9-11PM...so 15 to 18 hours a day. I have forgotten to turn the thing on only once and didn't make it home to turn it off once or twice.

I have varied this temperature considerably as I also have a heating mat. The seeds germinated in about 5-7 days with the soil thermometer reading about 85 deg. About a week after germination I shut off the heat mat, but temps were still running in the 70's-80's with the heat provided from the artificial light. I seriously doubt the seedlings have EVER felt temps below 65 degrees.

To be honest, the seeds don't seem to have changed their rate of growth ever. It's just been slow and plodding the entire time. Of note, this artificial wonderlite is a wide-spectrum light, not a fluorescent. If I had a digital camera I would prove to you that neither the peppers nor any of the other plants under this light are the slightest bit leggy.

How's that for thorough? :)

Paul..Greetings from another Portlander! I'm having some of the same issues as you, my plants have "stalled" in their growth. I have 7 varieties, and all of them gave me great seedlings EXCEPT the Tepins, which didn't give me that many. I planted mine the first week of March and got germination 5 days afterwards. I have transplanted all the seedlings to 4 oz cups and now have them all outside (though undercover) on my deck. They are all doing well EXCEPT my Chocolate Habs, which are suffering. I was wondering if it was too much water, not enough water, not enough natural sun...I wish we'd get our temps up here just a little and get some sun, I think that would solve a lot of my problems.
Cool to see another Portlander on here, good luck and keep in touch.

Like I said, people who dispute its use as a foliar application most likely have never tried it.
Outside of giving advise, I often wonder if county agents actually ever gardened. LOL

Information made available by Dr. Paul W. Bosland and Dave DeWitt states "A home remedy calls for spraying the blossoms with a solution of one teaspoon epsom salts in one quart of water....the magnesium in the epsom salts assists in the setting of fruit."

The following quotes were derived from researchers at Do It Yourself.com. who were asked to evaluate Epsom Salts in the garden. The article is "Fertilize with Epsom Salts"
These people actually TRIED IT!

"When diluted with water, and especially when applied as a foliar spray, Epsom salts can be taken up quickly by plants. Epsom salts' magnesium content, high solubility, and ease of application as a foliar spray are the main reasons for the positive results many gardeners see in their plants."

"Testers each grew six 'Gypsy' peppers. They applied 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts mixed with a gallon of water as a foliar spray to three plants at bloom time and again 10 days later.
Four out of the six testers reported that the Epsom salts-treated pepper plants and fruits were larger than the controls. For the treated roses, testers reported greener foliage, bushier plants, and more roses than on the control plants.
Kathy Stone Downie of Alameda, California, noticed many differences in her treated 'Gypsy' peppers. "The fruits were much bigger, almost twice the size. They were juicier, sweeter, and triple the thickness of the untreated peppers." Tommy Owen, in Rogersville, Tennessee, said that his treated roses had greener foliage and bigger flowers with deeper colors."

"In their studies, researchers applied Epsom salts directly to the soil. Foliar applications, such as those our test gardeners used, appear to be a better way to guarantee that the plants get the benefits of the added magnesium."

Scientists are beginning to test its use.
Renee Schloupt, horticulturist at Delaware Valley College in Doylestown, Pennsylvania states:

"The peppers have greener leaves, and it seems the 1- and 2-tablespoon doses yield a better result than the 3-tablespoon dose, but I haven't seen any dramatic effects on yields so far," she says. "The magnesium in the Epsom salts applied to the soil could be getting tied up with other nutrients. We might see better results when we apply Epsom salts directly to the leaves."

"Plants may not efficiently take up magnesium sulfate in granular form, especially in alkaline soils or soils that already test high in potassium, calcium, or magnesium. If you have tested your soil and know it has those qualities, a foliar application is a faster way to get the nutrients to the plant."

Tomato and Peppers:
"Epsom salts can keep plants greener and bushier, enhance production of healthier fruit later in the season, and potentially help reduce blossom-end rot. Apply 1 tablespoon of granules around each transplant, or spray a solution of 1 tablespoon Epsom salts per gallon of water at transplanting, first flowering, and fruit set."

Roses:
"Many rosarians agree that Epsom salts produces more new canes at the bottom of the plant (bottom breaks) and darker green foliage.
Apply a foliar spray (1 tablespoon per gallon of water per foot of shrub height) after the leaves open in spring and again at flowering."

Here's the whole article. It discusses Epsom Salt use as a soil supplement and a foliar spray.

Hopefully more people will be encouraged to try it and list their results.

Paul B.

But Blossom end rot is a calcium problem NOT a magnesium problem..

When and if you decide to compare, when you do a foliar feed, cover the soil with plastic so the run off from foliar doesn't get into the soil

So far no one has covered the soil while appling a foliar feed. ( or at least said so )

Thanks Paul for sharing your info. I knew that you would have some interesting input. I also am a fan of folar feeding. I use a seaweed based fert 1-2-1 for a spray when I transplant and they all seem to jump right into action.

Michael

Byron - I had a problem with blossom end rot on my tomatoes last year. From what I understand it is a calcium problem but usually from not enough water to make the calcium avaliable. I added eggshells and watered more and the problem seemed to go away. As far as the epsom foliar feed when I did mine the other day they are in 2L bottles and the run off didnt go into the soil. But I didnt do a side by side, and a few did get runoff.
Michael

Steelwheels,

Definitely nice to see another Portlander on here. Maybe next time I should title my posting with a less attention-getting name so I actually get my question answered and not a side-tangent discussion going, hmm? MY peppers, people, MINE! Teasing, teasing.

Anyway, the weather has been awfully crappy as of late, but I'm leaving for Alaska this coming Saturday for 6 weeks of rotation. My parents, g/f, and sister will be the responsible parties for making sure my peppers and tomatoes don't die. God help their souls if they screw it up. ;)

-Tobin- (Paul's the guy who knows lots)

Michael

Blossom end rot is a multiple problem

1. Lack of even watering
2. Lack of calcium usually in potting soil
3. Excess of nitrogen, potassium, phoshorous, magnesium
can depress the uptake of calcium
4. Soil pH, too acidic or too alkaline can depress the uptake of calcium Needs to remain pH 6.5 to 7.5
5. Dr Male says the excessive wind can cause transpiration
and cause a calcium uptake problem but ~ I haven't found another source of the info ???

Byron, what your county agent said doesn't make sense to me.

From what I remember of chemistry class, most ionic compounds dissociate in water to the component ions (so for Epsom, Mg+ and SO4-). Why would putting the granular salt in soil help it dissociate better than putting it in water? The testimonies of users of foliar epsom seem to back up the first part of the statement, not the second.

I would also try not to overestimate the effects of the leaf skin. If it was that good at keeping water in or out, then peppers would never wilt.

fledglingardening

I have done the experiment myself, my County agent tells me the same

Run the test yourself, see which answer you like the best..

Just make sure that when you foliar feed, nothing hits the soil surface

Do at least a dozen plants of the same variety

Byron

COUNTY AGENT...county agent; I'm tired of reading "one liners" of ONE persons' opinion.
County agents are paid by taxpayers to give the general public advice. That doesn't mean their advice is gospel.
They generally take a more conservative "devils' advocate" approach while assuming nobody will debate their so called "knowledge".
Rather than this practice being de-bunked by one or two lines of ONE county agent, I would be better served if someone could provide written testimony that plant leaves CAN NOT absorb nutrients.

The testimony of many, many end users should be to be tossed aside for the sole opinion of one county agent whose horticultural practices and background are unknown.

Foliar feeding is not a new technique. Here's yet another article from 1988 on foliar feeding methods from a leading organic gardening magazine Mother Earth News.

Another informative article written on foliar feeding; not by a county agent, but by a person who has her doctrine degree, Dr. Lynette Morgan.
The forth paragraph begins like this:
The Process of Foliar Fertilization
"Most leaves have stomata either only on the underside or on both sides of the leaf which enable gas to be exchanged for photosynthesis and respiration as well as releasing water vapour in stomatal transpiration. The leaf with its epidermis can also function as an organ that absorbs and excretes water and substances which may be dissolved in it."

Did I read that right? The leaf with its epidermis can also function as an organ that absorbs and excretes water and substances which may be dissolved in it..
YES, I wasn't seeing things, that's what the Dr. wrote.
Here's the complete article for those interested.

The bottom line; readers who elect to try foliar feeding can judge for themselves without negative influence from so called "experts" (county agents).

Paul B.

Paul

I am assuming that your claiming that my County Agent doesn't know much

He as a Masters in an Agi Science
He has been a county agent for over 25 years
( Not a Master Gardener with about 3 hours of class for 12 weeks)

He sets up the master gardener programs for my county
He controls the pesticide applicators for this county
He is a key player in not allowing Bt/GMO veggies in this state.

He is one of the key educators for the NE Berry and Vegetable Growers.

As far as writting book chapters for answers, if you want those go to the tomato forum, I have 3 broken fingers and I don't intend to write a book chapter for every question poted here

Now let me see photographic proof of foliar feeding vs root feeding of a pepper plant.

I seem to recall an experement done here last year on that very thing, with pictures, mesurements, etc. I'll see if I cna find the thread.

I think that thread was in the experiments forum by a poster named jimster, it was intereting and in my opinion proved foliar feeding was of value.

ahha! Found it!

Here is a link that might be useful: Foliar Feed Experiment

I've visited many websites that advocate foliar feeding. I'm yet to come across a site that dis-proves it.

The Internet is full of credible resources including people w/ PhD's and some universities which have horticultural programs describing the benefits of foliar feeding.
This is not to say that we should side step soil feeding, foliar feeding is merely a supplemental method.

Like I previously stated, it works very well in my situation and I'll continue to include it in my plant growing techniques.

These forums are a venue were visitors can ask and answer questions to the best of his/her knowledge and bounce ideas off one another.
We are not here to push our ideas onto others no more than we should be shooting holes in old or new ideas submitted to these forums.
If a reader happens to try a suggestion or recommendation and is happy w/ the results, then so be it.

What works for some in a practical world may not work for others who speculate in a theorized world.

Paul B.

I just now found this blog. I signed up to comment on this thread.

I believe that Epson Salts are good for many plants used either as foliar feed or mixed into fertilizer water.

My only comment is that it is a salt. and in general you dont want your soil to have a high salt content. Most fertilizers like Peters and Miracle Grow are SALTS. so a little salt is OK.

My belief is that some plants are very good at picking up foliar feeding and peppers are included in that list. I decided to run out and spray all my plants with a little epson salts. so lets see how they do.

i have been reading your debate here over the epsom salt method. i'm a first year grower so i can't take sides. however, i am gonna take a few plants and try the method that lil rhody uses. byron says not to let the solution hit the surface. questions! lil rhody, do you also not let the solution hit the surface? byron, what are your concerns with letting the soil hit the surface.
sorry if these questions have been answered somewhere and i missed them.
probably a stupis question to you guys, but i'm trying to gain a little quick knowledge. everybody knows how easy it is to get bogged down on the internet with site after site that doesn't answer the question.
thanks again!

i meant (solution hitting the surface) not "soil hitting the surface". i'm sure you figured it out, but just in case.

ttkz

If the solution hits the surface, this can equate to surface feeding, Some folks foliar feed until the soil surface has the equivalent or more. So how do you tell ??

Marie

Regretfuly that experiment did not continue for the whole summer under real sunlight, with full grown plants with a fruit load.

Sorry, I am a tad picky with 1/2 done projects.

I have started to test the last 3 years but we had way to much rain to make my results valid..

"lil rhody, do you also not let the solution hit the surface?"
I use such a fine mist spray early to mid-morining that the solution dries b/4 noon. I choose the days I spray when there's no rain forcasted for several days or longer. I don't water my plants from above, a drip irrigation system is built into my raised beds.

Paul B.

thanks guys, i'll let you all know how it turned out.

I had put some epson salts into a hand sprayer and it seemed to help. now I have applied it a 2nd time. I also added a touch of epson salts into the water.

So far so good. I think they are greener. but I did not scientifically measure it.

All mine are indoor seedlings. They will not go outdoors until almost June 1. but then I will probably get anxious and put them out early in May and they wont grow since it will be too cool then.

I am in Massachusetts

I WENT AND BOUGHT EPSOM SALT LAST NIGHT. I'M GONNA GIVE IT A TRY.
MAN THERE'S DEFINITELY A CLIMATE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MASS. AND NV. EVEN THOUGH IT'S HOTTER THAN NORMAL HERE TODAY, IT WILL BE HIGH EIGHTIES OR NINETY.
MUST BE NICE TO HAVE COOL WEATHER IN MAY.

I got some Epsom salt as well (just an hour ago in fact). I was first looking at the Spice aisles, but no go. My wife told me Cosmetics/medicine? so we headed over. Had no idea that it is used as a Laxative :) He,he! Anyway. Very cheap (less than $3 for 4lb). I just sprayed my pepper plants (some are already 13 inches high) and took some pictures. Will take pictures every day the next few days and compare. I used 1 tsb of Salt in a 32 oz spray bottle. I did not drench, just sprayed fairly lightly over and a little underneath.

kj

I think you mean teaspoon tsp not tsb the b goes with tablespoon which is bigger tbs for tablespoon.

anyway I use a big pinch in the quart sprayer. I have notices some improvement. the epson salts are super low cost to purchase. amazing.

ttkz
last may was super cold up here. the coldest in over 100 years. it was terrible. then came about june 1 and the heat wave hit. it was crazy. but this spring seems warm so far. I usually can get some plants outdoors in may. even early may if I cover them when it frosts at night. but they grow better if I keep them indoors and wait to plant them out.

I took some time off from gardening but am back into it this spring in a smaller way. I put some nice lettuce plants outdoors today. the start of the outdoor planting. all I have for this year are peppers the main idea. some lettuce and tomatoes. that will be it unless I try something else.

I like to add some mizuna but no seeds. my old mizuna seeds did not germinate. lots of old seed did not germinate but some did ok.

I keep thinking how nice it would be to live down south where it is warm and a longer grow season.

You guys are lucky you found the big boxes first place/time you looked. I needed some for a foot soak & all the places we went seemed to have pint size boxes, up till this week. Maybe the stores stock more of the large size for summer.

Anyway, going by Paul's estimate, 1tbsp ~ 5g. Wouldn't that be less than a 1% solution? Yeah it'd be .5% solution(by weight). (Damn, I forgot how nice metric can be. lol.)

Paul said he makes a 2% solution. 20 grms. of epsom salt to 1 liter (1000cc's).
For all intensive purposes, I equate 1 grm. to 1 cc.
Grams being a weight measurement while cc's are volumetric. Weight in grams is always a constant. Weight of liquids are dynamic. Depending on the liquid, "X" amount of cc's can weigh different amounts based on density or specific gravity.

Anyway, I make a 2% solution of a 2 liter batch.
40 grams of Epsom salts to 2 liters (2000 cc's).

Paul B.

I did not weigh mine. But I used maybe 1/4 teaspoon in quart sprayer. it works for me. I dont think the strength is important. just so it is not too strong and kill the plant. I say so slow on salts.

I will also give a 2nd spray not long after. I think spraying twice with low concentration is better than once with strong.

I am doing this on my indoor seedlings. outdoors with big plants I am sure they can take a stronger solution. but indoors with seedlings, I prefer to go slow.

Just my opinion.

Hmm, I am kind of at a loss for which one I actually used! I have a small scale that I probably could have used The resolution is 4 marks per 100 grams (25 grams). I just took a pot-shot at it. They're not dead yet, so I probably got it at least partially right :) I only sprayed very lightly kind of like a mist though. One thing's for certain, the leaves are very green and feels pretty hard to the touch (very soft and hanging a little when they are thirsty or unhappy). One of the pepper plants is now 14 inches tall and most of them have flowers. Definitely grown a lot the last few days. I would not be surprised if the Epsom salt worked wonders. I have taken pictures every day. I'll see if I can compare them in a couple of days.

I got 1 plant that is both slow growing and has been more light green with a yellowish tint than the rest the entire time. I have no idea what the plant is and it is growing leaves and all and seems to be doing what it's supposed to do. Just smaller and very slow. It is supposed to be one of the 5 pack Burpee types. Maybe it's unique and just takes longer or maybe it's a seed that somehow erroneously ended up in the Burpee pack. Have no idea. But, I am definitely not getting rid of it until the fat lady sings which I doubt will happen. I just took a peek at it and it's definitely got a much greener tint now than b.e. (before epsom). Also has tons of new leaves popping out everywhere on the stem. It is a mere 4 inches "tall" by the way :) Do not think it's necessary to transplant that one for a while yet!

It's encouraging to see people experiencing positive results using Epsom salts as a foliar application. The solution concentration works fine in various amounts. I simply weighed 2 grams of it on the digital scale at work and marked the container w/ a pen. When I make a solution, I fill the container to the pen mark then add the salts to an empty 2 liter soda bottle and top it off w/ water; shake it and I'm all set for a while.

Paul B.

Typo: That would be 40 grams on a digital scale.

Hey Guys,

I think everyone is missing the point! The point is that many experts agree that epsom salts probably will help your plants. Try adding a little directly to the soil on some plants, try foliar spray on some others and wee which application method gives you the best results.

The bottom line is that we are getting advice from some of the best PEPPER growers in the country (Thanks to Byron, John47, and lil_rhody for all of their contributions here on Garden Web), and the reality is that the exact method that works for one may not work for others.

Byron, When you add epsom salts to the soil, do you mix it in the soil, or apply to the surface?

I have tried the following: Mixing in the soil when transplanting, sprinkling a little on the top of the soil, and foliar spray (this was not an experiment as to which was most effective, but rather the method of application that seemed the best at the time). With that being said, there is definitely a benefit to using epsom salts, try it and see what works for YOUR plants.

LF

Tobin,
It has been almost 3 weeks since your problem. How are the peppers?

Best of Luck
Michael

I put some seaweed extract into my sprayer yesterday. Today I noticed one plant was very green after a month of dieing. finally got what it needed. hope it revives.

now I have been spraying with epson salts so i dont think the seaweed could do the trick that quick.

I also went online and found a place with low cost seaweed. I ordered some. It was only about $4.50 a pound. that is really good price. I figure a pound should easy last me the rest of my life.

I try to add mine just before a rain, I just toss it on the surface.

If it looks like the next rain is way off, I mix a tbsp in a gal of water, then water the plant.

Hi, just gotta kick in since I'm poking around this forum now. I freely applied a couple handfuls of epsom salts to the soil in the garden last spring, and again in the fall, and got some BIG basil and parsley plants in an abbreviated growing season. And now with spring arriving, my year-old lovage is taking off like nuts.

I dunno how much I can attribute to the epsom salts, but I sure doesn't hurt. :)

here is my take on the epson salts.

I think doing a folar spray is less dangerous than watering it into the soil. but I can see a use for the soil with basil. I dont think you necessarily want to eat basil with epson salt on it. although it is safe to eat.

now salt is salt and too much salt in the soil is not good for a plant. the fertilizers like miracle grow or peters are salts. and using a full teaspoon per gallon of those salts can be too strong. so I would not advise a full teaspoon of epson salt per gallon to water my plants. I think if the tiny amount on leaves is enough then a tiny amount is all that is needed coming up the roots.

To me I think of it as taking my miracle grow and mixing in some epson salts so that there is some magnesium included in the fertilizer. now I would not put an equal amount of epson salt in with an equal amount of fertilizer. the plant only looks for trace amounts of epson salt magnesium compared to all the fertilizers. therefore only a little is needed. I also dont want to make my soil salty.

lastly what I am doing now is I have my quart spray bottle and it has epson salt and seaweed combined. the seaweed has about xx trace elements I think. well it has a lot anyway. I am not sure. but seaweed is a proven foliar spray and a proven use in the water. seaweed also should not make the soil real salty like epson salts will.

so I am using only a little bit of both in the bottle. maybe an 1/8th of a teaspoon or less of each in the quart. so I guess I am using about 1/2 teaspoon per gallon not too far from the 1 teaspoon per gallon but I have sprayed about 4 times in the last week or so and so I will now have to cut back.

also I think it is more ok to use a higher concentration of epson salts in the spray than in the water. the total amount given the plant is much much less.

all this said, I must say that I see a lot of good greening up on my pepper plants since I started spraying. And I did give one shot of watering the plants. but there I put maybe 1/4 teaspoon in 5 gallons.

I will quote from here:
http://www.kelpproductsofflorida.com/

Norwegian Kelp contains over 12 vitamins, 60 major and trace chelated minerals and 20 amino acids.

"Norwegian Kelp contains over 12 vitamins, 60 major and trace chelated minerals and 20 amino acids."
Sounds like pepper steroids. Give your plants a good workout after feeding them that stuff.
Those are the peppers that will make it to the SUPERmarket. The produce person has to test them for steroids though. LOL

Paul B.