Planting (re-planting) tulips and daffodils and such in OK
tadasana
10 years ago
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mulberryknob
10 years agotadasana
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Winter thaw - OK to plant tulips in whiskey barrels?
Comments (1)Hoping is giving it a shot - go for it. Tulips don't establish roots in the fall so can be planted late....See MoreWhat's the latest time to plant tulips, Daffodils, etc in De, Pa?
Comments (2)There are really no absolutes. By moving the planting date later, you increase your risk of problems but do not guarantee problems - they could very well grow and bloom fine, there may be minor issues, or they could fail. The greatest likelihood is that there will be minor issues. To my knowledge, your greatest risk is that the plants won't be able to grow roots in time for the soil to freeze (most spring bulbs - all varieties that you listed - begin growing roots in fall when the soil is still warm, and are normally well-rooted by now). That means that in the spring they will be trying to put up flowers in conditions that look like drought even if the soil isn't dry. When it comes to tulips that means "dwarf" plants - they resemble a mature full-sized tulip, but are smaller in all ways, especially in height. When it comes to narcissus it's a full-sized flower that blooms 2-3 inches above the soil line, much shorter than the leaves, which are also a bit shorter than they would be. An additional risk is that bulbs are more susceptible to rotting if they don't have developed root systems before the temperature plummets. So although the plants would have a harder time absorbing water, you do NOT want to over-water to compensate. Water them the same amount that you would in both winter and spring. Do water them well as you plant them to kick-start the rooting process (additionally, moist soil holds more latent heat and resists freezing). Also, do plant them deep enough - or even plant them 1-2 inches deeper than the package says as long as drainage won't be a problem. This will give them a little more time to root as the frost slowly advances downward. By planting them deeper you may even get them to be below the farthest extent of frost, which will allow them to continue rooting all winter. The problems I mentioned could happen, but they may not. There is a risk that you could deal with flowers that fail to develop, but I think this risk is pretty low because as you pointed out, they'll still get a cold period. They don't have to freeze to chill and 40-45 degrees is fine. You'll also get flowers 2-3 weeks later than usual, unless you put them in a particularly warm, sunny spot. As for your alliums, they will probably be fine because they are summer-blooming plants and have more time to develop in the spring. As for your narcissus, I think it's pretty likely that they'll grow and bloom a little shorter than the package says they'll be - but maybe not noticeably so; it's hit or miss. Your tulips are your biggest risk of problems because they're pickier plants; they're the most likely to rot if the soil is too wet, and the variety you picked doesn't perennialize well. However, in my experience of planting tulips very late, they do come up in spring, and the "dwarf" sized leaves continue to expand in size after the blooms die so have a good opportunity to photosynthesize for next year if you do hope for perennialization....See MoreJust Planted Tulip Bulbs in Z7 - What now?
Comments (7)If it were me: I'd remove the weed cloth now. I've not seen it do anything good for the development of a good soil structure in clay. Gravel: I'd be thinking a mix of sizes rather than a single screen size. My preference would be for 2,5,7mm which can be useful when it gets dug through the soil/clay. As I'm using it as a mulch I wouldn't put it on any thicker than 2". Less could be better.(Sand is a no-no. It's like uncreamed butter and sugar in an angel cake...). As I'm planting into clay, and if I didn't have too many bulbs, I'd dig out circular shapes for my patches of colour to the depth for my zone and a little extra. Into the extra I'd put a layer of about an inch of the 2mm grit so the roots can get started into a better-drained area. If I could, I'd get a grit that stood out in colour from my soil. Later, when I come to lift the bulbs, I'd be able to see when I've 'hit bedrock' and I'd know to move carefully so I didn't harm my bulbs. Because I'm wanting to improve my soil over time, I'd add some agricultural lime - about an ounce to the square yard. Once I'd covered my bulbs I'd ensure that I stayed off that ground to prevent it from compacting. That's particularly important over times in the year when it's wet. The sad-looking bulbs: I'd plant them up in containers and I'd plant them quite shallowly. Barely covered, and in a free-draining mix - even 50:50 small grit and potting mix with no peat. I wouldn't want the water to stay close to them and I'd want whatever roots they can produce to have lots of encouragement to forage. (I'd even rescue the ones I tossed and give them a go, too.) Those containers I'd put where they get not much more than a couple of degrees of frost, moderate water, and good sunlight. A bit later on, when I see green noses above the soil/gravel (yes they DO come up through gravel) I'd feed them at the prescribed amount with either some potato or tomato food - powdered so it slowly breaks down, and lightly stir it in to the surface of the soil/gravel. Just once. With the damaged bulbs - some might flower. Some will die. Some might only put up leaves and split into smaller bulbs. Which is fine, because I can grow on those daughter bulbs for a year or two to give me 'free bulbs'. Any with streaky leaves I'd dig up and burn because they might have a virus and I'd rather be safe than sorry. All it needs is one travelling aphid and it could spread. No thanks. And next year, when the bulbs are finished for the year, I'd be putting my grass clippings onto the garden strip with a light sprinkling of lime, followed by as many autumn leaves as I could scrounge. Welcome mats for the earthworms. As an aside - if you do use the smaller grit sizes you can plant into it. The small 'johnny-jump-up' pansies, florists' anemones, verbascum, dianthus-pinks, linaria, eschscholzia, and a good range of other annuals will grow there - especially if you can provide some water over the summer. They may not be huge/lush but they will be sturdy and colourful. When it comes to weeding over the gravel (yes you DO have to weed...:-( ) use a two-tine hand fork or weed hook rather than anything conventional. If you use a knife, that will work, too. Forget spades - and rotary tillers. They're often not good for the health of the soil structure on clay....See MoreNew person here, ? re: tulips, daffodils
Comments (8)I refrigerate my tulips from the first of September until the first week of December when I plant them under my roses. The tulips will bloom about when the roses begin to leaf out. My roses I always prune down to 18 inches or less in January. The tulips will be died down by the end of April and are removed and dried before being stored for use next year. I have good results with all tulips 12 CM or about 4 1/2 inches in circumferance reblooming next year. I have a separate refrigerator used just for the garden. Two inches of compost is added before tulips are planted and again when tulips are removed. No fertilizer or sprays are ever required. When my tulips are in bloom (average height is 24 to 30 inches) most people do not notice the roses. Al...See Moremulberryknob
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