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Tip damage and branch questions

Kristiina DiOrio

13 years ago

I have 4 plumies roughly 3 feet tall that I over winter inside in Vermont. Normally they are in a brightly lit sun room, leafs stripped and minimal water to prevent dehydration. This winter (out of my control) they spent a good amount of time in the cool basement with virtually no water. When I was finally able to bring them up to the sun room, they were severely dehydrated and I feared I would lose them. Thankfully I didn't lose any or branches but I did have some damaged growth tips. Now that things are warm enough to start bringing outside, I see that it looks like it forced those branches to create new branches. Is that really what's happening? Take a look at the picture I included. The 2 plumies with the most damage isn't shown whole, just the tips. I know these pots that they are in are woefully small. I had planned on cutting them apart and planting up in larger pots this spring but I'm not sure if I should now considering the stress they are already facing. Any advice would be appreciated. Oh and what's going to happen with the branches that look a little girdled? It appears as though the damaged area is splitting even though the growth tip is moving along nicely. Thanks!

Comments (5)

tdogdad
13 years ago
These have hardened black tip which is no longer a threat to the plant. The new branches will grow and just let them do so. After they get about a half inch long, select the best looking ones, no more than 4, and cut off the others. The plant can produce many (one I had had 14 new branches) but it cannot support a large number into healthy branches. With 3-4 you get large, healthy branches for plant growth. I first let them grow and then realized over many years that cutting produced better plants. Bill (Just leave the bottom pictured plant alone and let it grow. It will have an ugly trunk scar later but as long as the new growth comes, let it go.)
Kristiina DiOrio
Original Author
13 years ago
Great! Thanks for the info Bill. That's what I thought but it's good to hear the confirmation. :-)

What about the size of the pots and planting them in larger ones? Should I wait til next year because of the stress of separating them or go ahead and do it?
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I can't tell if that is clay or plastic. If clay, I would move because clay pots are not good for plumerias. Roots stick to the side and there is too much breathing by unglazed clay. The longer you wait, the more tangled the roots will be. I found if I plunged the pot in a tub of water I could untangle the roots by removing all the soil but if it is not well rooted this can be tricky. Those can go into 5 gallon black nursery pots that can be dropped into better looking pots if needed.
Kristiina DiOrio
Original Author
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Shoot! It's is clay. Very thick, heavy clay. They have spent their whole lifes in these pots since I rooted them. Detangling will be next to impossible. I was thinking that I would just saw between the two of them. Would this be ill advised? The pots are probably 50 pounds or more and I doubt I could find a tub large enough (other than my bathtub...which is upstairs). I know they are root bound and in need of more soil.
tdogdad
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Cut in half and then run a long knife around the inside edge of the pot to cut the roots that will be stuck. Use B-1 and/or superthrive and water to ease the transplant shock and do not fertilize for about 10 days. Just continue B-1 and water when they dry down.

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