Mike, According to the label of Rally, which is the commercial counterpart of Immunox (i.e. myclobutanil) it should not be stored below 32. Since most pesticide labels don't warn against freezing, I would say it's very possible freezing could damage your Immunox. Some pyrethroids (same class of insecticide as Triazicide) are susc. to damage at lower temps, but I think the main concern is separation of the compound. The one concern I'd have about Triazicide is that when I've seen it, it looks to have a water base, whereas other pyrethroids are emulsifiable concentrates which have an oil base. I would think oil based concentrates would hold up better under freezing (since they don't solidify) but that's just a guess. I agree with others that most pesticides can take freezing. I suppose the best thing to do is look for separation of material. Heat is generally much more destructive to pesticides. Good luck with it!

I'm surprised by the answers because you stated you would be willing to use something synthetic. I suggest, and members of this forum repeatedly suggest, that for the grower who is not devoted to growing free of man made insecticides and wants to use a product with very little risk to the user should run with a pyrethroid such as Spectracide's Triazide, Once and Done (for fruit and vegetables). You need to spray very very soon (probably late next week) and again in about 2 weeks. I manage orchards not far from you and know that the odds are good that's all the insecticide you will need. E-mail me if you want a detailed description of my spray sched. You will probably need at least a single fungicide ap as well- probably in early to mid July for peaches- maybe just a couple weeks before fruit is ripe for cherries. Order Montery Fungus fighter for that.

hoosierquilt is not correct - citrus mites (and there are several species) are just a form of spider mite common to citrus. They are microscopic - most sources indicate magnification is required to see them as they are about .15mm in length, immature forms even smaller. Dunno what he/her was seeing but it wasn't mites! Stippling of the foliage is the typical damage, caused by the sucking out of the plant juices, although some mite species can damage the fruits' appearance as well. Not all mite species will produce webbing but that is what you might see - not the creatures themselves. Growing citrus indoors is not an easy task :-) They dislike the low light, overly dry conditions and often high heat of an indoor setting. There is a strong tendency to overwater to compensate for this and that just creates more problems, especially with a not very good quality potting mix, like the MG. I'm sure repotting with a less dense, less moisture retentive soil will help. And I'd try misting often to bump up humidity. A glass of water in close proximity will help also or standing the pot in a saucer of pebbles with a small amount of water. This is the easiest method to keep mites at bay. Just be on the look out for other insect pests, which are all too common with indoor citrus (as mentioned). Citrus also tend to be heavy feeders, so fertilize routinely. I would use MG's Miracid (3-1-1 ratio) or FoliagePro by Dyna Gro (3-1-2 ratio) -- the nitrogen component (first number) should be the highest. Nutrient deficiencies and improper watering/drainage are more likely to be the cause of your foliage problems than insects or any fungal issues. The most important notion I can leave you with is not to make assumptions on what the problems might be and start spraying. Even attempting an online photo diagnosis is tricky at best. Take the plant (or samples of the issues) into a local nursery that specializes in houseplants or to your local extension service for an accurate diagnosis. They can also recommend an appropriate treatment. But don't start spraying a fungicide until you are sure you have a fungal issue. That can often do more harm than good.

My first recommendation is that you do your research very carefully and be sure to match up the fungicide you decide to use with both the plant on which you'll be spraying it and with the disease or diseases you're dealing with. Some fungicides are only labeled for use on certain vegetables and some fungicides are only effective on certain diseases, so it can be a waste of time and money if you buy a fungicide and take it home only to realized that (a) you cannot spray it on some of the things you're growing and (b) it is not effective on the particular disease or diseases you're dealing with. Also, be sure that you understand which fungicides are organic in nature and which ones are synthetic, if it is your preference to use only organic products. Most of the fungicides that are readily available to the home gardener do not 'cure' a fungal disease once the plant already has it. Most of them can slow down the rate at which the disease spreads and that can mean your plants may live long enough to produce a crop. Most of the home gardener-type fungicides work by coating the plant, in effect sealing it, so that the fungal spores cannot attach to the plant parts. In order for them to be as effective as possible, it is best to carefully remove every diseased leaf from every plant and then to spray. However, in a rainy year like this, the fungal diseases can spread very rapidly and you may find yourself in the position of having to leave some diseased leaves on the plants to prevent the crop you're growing from sunscalding and being ruined. One of the best multi-purpose synthetic fungicides available, sold under such names as Daconil or Ortho Disease-Control Spray, is chlorothalonil. It is most effective, though, if sprayed on the plants from Day 1 that they are put into the ground (or sprout, if grown from seed) and then re-sprayed at regular intervals per the label direction. Beginning to use it well after plants already are infected will help a little, but not as much as using it regularly from Day 1 would have worked. Other synthetic fungicides available for use on some vegetables include Maneb and Mancozeb. Some of the organic fungicides available include Green Cure (Potassium bicarbonate), Serenade, neem and copper. To answer your question, no it does not harm a plant to be sprayed with fungicide IF that fungicide is labeled for use with that plant. It is important to read and follow all label directions. Some fungicides will help many veggies but harm or even kill others. Some fungicides are fine to be used at any reasonable temperature, but others burn plants and can kill them if sprayed in hot weather. Some fungicides cannot be applied within a certain number of days of some other products (like oil sprays) being sprayed. Some fungicides cannot be combined with other products (like an insecticide or water-soluble fertilizer). Do I think fungicides are worth the time and expense? To me, it depends on the time of the year. I sprayed my tomatoes with Daconil once or twice in May in an effort to slow down the spread of fungal diseases. It worked okay but not great (totally the result I expected given that we over 25" of rain in May alone and everything in the garden stayed wet 24/7). I am not sorry I did it as we are getting a gigantic harvest of tomatoes. Would I do it again? No, now that we are in mid-June I wouldn't spray the tomatoes again. First of all, I don't like eating any food crop that's been sprayed with anything. Since I am a realist though, I do know that in a year like this, spraying once or twice with a fungicide gives my plants the best chance of survival. Secondly, when you read the MSDS on any given product and see that it is considered a possible carcinogen, you ask yourself "Do I want to use this on plants I'll eat?". Also, notice my remarks are confined to tomatoes. It is very hard to keep tomatoes happy here all summer long. In a dry year, the stink bugs damage the fruit heavily and the spider mites sometimes damage the plants heavily. So, I'm content to harvest tomatoes early and often from late April through late July or early August and then to let the plants go. I'd rather be starting over with fresh new tomato plants for fall tomatoes. My decision on whether or not to use a fungicide depends on the plant being affected, how well it will produce if it survives, etc, and whether or not there is a safe organic fungicide that I can use in high heat. Also a part of the equation is whether the rainfall is continuing. Rain will wash fungicide off the leaves of your plants pretty quickly, so it can be hard for them to remain effective in rainy years. LSU has a great document that gives very detailed info about the garden fungicides generally available to the home gardener. It includes a chart showing which fungicide is effective on which diseases. I'll link it below. Hope this helps, and there's no need to apologize for discussing a garden-related topic on a gardening forum! : ) Having said that, I do feel bad when I focus too much on my poor garden and forget the plight of others who have been badly affected by the floods. I keep telling myself that if the garden's issues are my worst problem, then I'm pretty lucky indeed. In a few minutes, our son will be arriving home with a friend of his who is going to move into our guest room and live with us for a while. This young man is fiercely independent and has been trying to stay afloat financially by selling all his personal belongings after losing his job when his employer (a golf course) was shut down after suffering massive flood damage. My heart goes out to him, and I am happy we are able to offer him a place to stay. I wish he'd told someone he was having trouble before he sold almost everything he owned. When I think of what he has been through and how upsetting it must be to find oneself in that position, and how he was just planning to live in his car, I feel immensely small for worrying and fretting over spots on my tomato leaves. I am going to try really hard to bite my tongue and not complain about any of my garden problems (which ALL are so minor compared to what he is going through) to him. His situation helps me put my yard and garden issues into perspective, you know? Now, the great LSU link is below! Dawn LSU: DIsease Management in Vegetable Gardens