I've found that more often than not if 1 out of a line or group of trees or bushes planted dies, and then it's replacement does the same thing there's something in the soil. In most of the cases, I've gone back and dug deeper and found large chunks of construction debris, a giant rock, slap of concrete, etc. ie. It's always been a physical barrier to proper root growth or something that is "polluting" the soil(like something which is dramatically altering the pH(acidity) of the immediate area). It's also possible that someone dumped out a chemical which is affecting your 1 Italian Cypress. People often flush out old radiator fluid, wash out old paint brushes, etc. in their lawns(usually around the edges or in a low spot that drains away from the rest of THEIR lawn). I'm not saying that anyone of these specific chemicals could be the cause, but I'm also not saying they aren't; it's just a possibility.

This is a very typical problem and has come up a lot lately. I think this type of deterioration of a newly installed tree is most often a product of having a poorly grown product and /or having it improperly installed. Mulching a newly planted tree is really important. But you need to do it right. More often the worst possible practice is used. A wide (several feet) circular mound of mulch should be built around the planting area to try to create a well around the rootball so that more water will penetrate around the roots - before it drains away. That's a good idea in my opinion. But the exact opposite is more commonly used. There is no reason to mound up mulch right up to the trunk, like a giant anthill. I see landscapers do this all the time. I cannot imagine what purpose it serves. In fact, it's probably much, much worse than not mulching at all. Mulches (or soil) shouldn't ever touch the trunk of a tree!! They defintely should not touch 12 inches of trunk in a weird volcano shape. Tree trunks are not supposed to be suffocated or wet. That shold be common sense. Trees do not grow like that in nature. Trees should be installed so that you can see the trunk flare out right at the soil line. When fresh bark (the most common mulch) dries, it sheds water, it certainly doesn't direct it to the roots of the newly planted tree. A volcano of mulch will only keep water from getting where a newly planted tree's roots are. When I see trees mulched this way in shopping center parking lots, I'll sometimes kick the mulch away into the street to help out the idiot landscape company and prevent the needless death of a tree. No "professional" (for money) landscape work in my area is ever done "professionally" (in a responsible, workmanlike manner according to certain standards). People forget the word "profressional" is supposed to imply that certain standards are observed. When neighbors ask me about good nurseries or landscapers I can't tell them anything. No one does better work here than I do in my spare time as a hobby. I've said it before - but growing plants is a race to the bottom, lowest common denominator business -- and planting and selling them is too often the province of illegal immigrants who don't speak English, more less know the best practices of their trade. I'm not disparaging people who are just trying to earn an honest buck - but just pointing out they generally don't do their job well. What's worse is that people look to nurseries and landscape companies for advice - and both generally have very low standards and knowledge - at least at the employee level. Just my opinion.

preppyjock, We all have a lot to learn from gardening, every year. I think you need to start from the basics. In reading your other post, I can see you are having a tough time, as many of us are this year. Many suggestions have been given, and I know you can't do them all at once, but to garden you have to have some basics in place. Since the season is coming to an end, unless you plan on doing a fall garden, which many of us will do, you need to start to prep you area for next year. Look at your soil, have it tested, make adjustments,add compost,manure as needed. Get your soil ready for next year.Nothing gives plants a better start than this! Then look at plants and varietys that do well for your zone. Maybe only do a few until you get those down then add a few more. But believe me start with the basics, you will be so much better off. When you start to do this and that to your garden you really start to mess up the balance. Start small, and add to it year after year until you gain the knowledge to add to the things you grow.

The difference in outcomes between the Cypress and the Box could be due to them having been two different sets of plants. The way to have tested the conditions in the two different parts of the bed would have been to have planted the same plants throughout. The pointedness of the Cypresses emphasizes the height and narrowness of the planting space rather than softens it. So this is another characteristic of the Cypress that was not actually suitable for the situation. One of the main reasons to plant trees and shrubs in front of architecture is to provide some toning down of bold architectural lines - something your house has in abundance. You should consider moving the width of the foundation bed out to the edge of the drive so it can accommodate shrubs tall enough to match the house without them looking too tall for the bed. And for the most flattering effect the plantings should be planned so there are multiple elements present resulting in variations such as taller, different kinds of shrubs at the corners of the house than are below the windows. And perhaps a round topped tree of some height in the nook where the Cypresses were planted. If such concepts are an utter mystery you might think about bringing in a garden consultant, garden designer or landscape architect to be sure an attractive and compatible setting for your house is created.