Hi Krolik, How's your plant doing? Here are a couple of thoughts. 1, Travel can be stressful for plants, they can pick up exposure to who knows what. 2, Bathroom humidity, It may not dry out enough, in there, to kill unwanted organisms, or let the plant cells move water. Consider moving the plant out of there for a few days, or a couple of weeks. Just give it a light morning spritz in it's new home. A flor. plant light -10$ and timer -8$ if the light needs adjusting+ a little, somewhere else. 3, Light anti-fungals/microbials, Neem oil from Logee's, that stuff is good! Meanwhile, have you tried watering with a little green tea, or black tea or coffee that's been thinned, or a spray of water and white vinegar, say from 1/10th to 1/3rd vinegar? And there's lysol spray, or other similar cheap substitute [saw that in gardenweb, just don't remember if it was on begonias]. My begonias perk up with the vinegar spray. One liked half cup of old coffee in its quart+ watering pot too. 4, Soil changes/repot.I had an ailing Sophie Cecile, one I had growing on from cuttings. I took a chance with it, because I didn't want to throw it out. I repotted it, down a little, because of fewer roots, with a little good soil from the yard. The soil had a little clay, a tiny bit of wood ash, some peaty compost, and maybe a little dog residue. They are supposed to like a little clay, and potash is good for fighting ills, and the texture was open from the plant material. It turns out that there's something in dung preferably cow, that helps fight off some virus or fungus or other. It was happy at the end of the summer,when it came out from under a shrub. I'm hoping that you can hold out till spring when you can set it in a protected spot.

I have the same light-colored spots on geranium leaves brought in from the garden for their third winter. THey are different than all pictures on the web. Only one leaf had miniature aphid or scale like insects. The disease is not on all leaves. A few of the stems are rotten which points to a bacterial infection now perhaps transmitted through the soil. I'll spray with neem oil, but I bet I loose these big healthy hardy gorgeous geraniums. My light colored spots seem to stay under the surface of the leaves but develop some orange coloring on their edges as the plant matures. But it's not rust or any of the other fungus diseases pictured. I lost a rare scented geranium that dropped it's leaves and grew in the same pot several months ago. My guess is it's bacterial and I'll have to destroy the plant and throw away the soil. What have you found?

Ok.I went to wallyworld and they had LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE by Southern AG. Got home and it said to peel label open for directions. i peeled and there was nothing!!I googled it and found out there was also a NEUTRAL COPPER FUNGICIDE. Did I get the wrong one? Only directions they had were what I pasted below.Could not find any info about how soon I could pick veggies after using.I am guessing that this stuff is not too bad for us ;-( Some of my plants looked like they were wilting at the top this afternoon. I will see how they look tomorrow and also follow julieann's advice and pick off all the bad leaves. I think a couple of these plants are gonna croak.I was thinking of spraying wih the ortho also tomorrow. Good or bad? Also, What is Aspiring the mixture? LIQUID COPPER FUNGICIDE CONTAINS: 31.4% Copper Ammonium complex (8% Metallic Copper Equivalent, 0.784 lbs per gallon) USE ON: Many Fruits, Vegetables, Turfgrasses (algae control), Live Oak (moss control) and Ornamentals CONTROLS: Many bacterial and fungal leaf spots, rust, blights. Also controls algae in Turfgrass and moss in live oaks. RATE: Rates vary greatly depending upon use. See label. Ex. Peaches - 1.5 Tablespoons per gallon, Tomatoes - 2 ozs per 1,000 sq. ft. in 2 gallons of water, Ornamentals - 2 teaspoons per gallon, Moss control- 4.5 ozs per 1,000 sq. ft., Algae control in turfgrass - 1 pint per 1,000 sq. ft. in 5 gallons of water. APPLICATION: Mix with water and apply as a cover spray. PACKED: 12 x 8 oz. - #02901 12 x Pt - #02902, 12 x Qt - #02903 4 x Gal. - #02904 * This description is a new formulation. Check label.

Carolyn: I have sprayed with Kelp, but not for a while. It seemed that every time I sprayed with something, even Kelp, it burned the leaves. I try spraying only in the evenings so the hot sun does not burn the leaves. Last year, you diagnosed my tomato plants as having TSWD and I pulled them all and burned them (No tomatoes that year). But these plants don't look the same as those I had last year. These start at the bottom of the plant and are yellowing with purple veins. The ones last year, started at the top, and especially the newest foliage at the top was effected--and the leaves themselves last year, had a purple tint. I thought this might be a phosphate problem because I bought some bone meal and feed it to the plants having this problem and it did seem to help some. But I hesitate about using more because I don't want to over do it--I was afraid the Nitrogen in the Bone Meal might make the plant bushy and stop producing blooms and fruit. In order to prevent Thrips and Aphids this year, I have occasionally spayed with Pyola & Bulls-eye from Garden Alive. What do you think do you think about a deficiency? Thanks, Sheila