it will most likely come back unless you're too nice to it. Keep it dryer than usual because it doesn't have any leaves. Keep it in a warm place and expect it might take 4-6 weeks before it actually starts growing actively again. They seem to have a delay time before they start growing again after they're frosted, like they're waiting to make sure that the weather has really changed.

I'm a northern gardner: zone 5a in western Catskills with a relatively short growing season, and I grow seven or eight (who counts) Miscanthus cultivars. I divide only when I must, as determined by size (whether or not plant has outgrown its spot) or performance (excessive floppiness and/or dying out in the center, which often go hand-in-hand). I do not see value in Ms Harper's advice to divide yearly other than for propagation. Otherwise, why bother? In my experience, it is better to wait until their centers die before dividing. (There are many reponses in this forum dealing with "how" to divide, so I won't go into that much.) Taking a chunk of a plant from just one side is something I don't recommend, because the plant is apt to grow lopsidedly. Center die-back is a natural habit of grasses (from their first year) and becomes noticeable in most M. sinensis cultivars after about three years. But that does not mean they must be divided that frequently. (Early die-back that is apparent in Spring may not be so at summer's end, as they are apt to "fill-in.") Usually five to seven years of growth will necessitate division, or once a plant's overall width noticeably exceeds the height of its foliage. A rule of thumb for most sinensis cultivars: the bigger the plant the longer before it must be divided; M.s. "Adagio" or M. "Purpurescens" about every four to five years. This coming spring I will divide a M.s. 'Variegatus' in its seventh year; and a M. "Purpurescens" in its sixth year (I should have divided the latter last spring.) Waiting so long to divide, means that the plant is more easily divided while it is in the ground (in Spring before or as new growth begins). Be sure, though, to remove all of the plant's dead center to prevent lopsided growth. Have new beds prepared or line up many willing recipients (or buyers).

Here are two pictures of it. I had already cut off several of the totally dead lower branches before writing my initial question. It has been in the pot about 3 years. My initial thoughts were that the pot was the problem (i.e., more affected by the cold or perhaps it was rootbound) But then I saw all of the liquidambar in a similar condition in the nearby shopping centre I began to think it might be something else. Those are planted in ground and have been growing strongly for at least 10 years and look similar, even worse in some cases. Thanks for any thoughts!

size can be related to the leaf size... on elatior.. make a round figure with your arms.. and then move your hands 6 inches part.. and an extra large LEAF.. will fit in the area ... no matter how big the clump gets... Squash will NEVER have leaves that large .... the clump may be large.. the leaves will not be huge ... in theory .. you could get a clump of golden tiara to be 5 feet across ... leaving center die back, etc aside ... and you will have a HUGE clump ... but the size of the leaf will never be large.. there.. i think i said the same thing two or three times ... starting to talk like my f-in-law .. lol .. ken