Lots of people think coffee and tea are "tonics", but they would be wrong. Forum discussions frequently center on the question of adding dilute coffee/tea or grounds to plants as a 'tonic', but Arabica (coffee) and Camellia (tea) are known for their toxic alkaloid (caffeine) content and their allelopathic affect on plants as well as autotoxic (poison to their own seedlings) effects on future generations. Caffeine interferes with root development by impairing protein metabolism. This affects activity of an important bio-compound (PPO) and lignification (the process of becoming woody), crucial steps for root formation. We also know that the tannins in both coffee and tea are known allelopaths (growth inhibitors). There are ongoing experiments to develop herbicides using extracts from both coffee and tea that cause me to want to say they might serve better as a nonselective herbicide than as a tonic. I would not use either (stale coffee or tea) by applying directly to my plants - especially containerized plants; nor would I add tea bags/coffee grounds to my container soils. When you ask a plant to live under saturated soil conditions, it complies by forming an airy light root tissue called aerenchyma instead of the parenchyma we usually find when roots are grown in a healthy, well-aerated medium. Problems arise when the plant is put in a position where it's required to go back and forth from 'soggy when the soil is full of water' to well-aerated conditions as the soil is allowed to dry down to the point it again becomes well-aerated. 1 tissue type will serve you well under 1 set of conditions, but poorly when asked to play a dual role. That fact is where growers who expect the plant to do well when transitioning back and forth because, "..... after all, the plant DOES grow well in the riparian settings where it naturally occurs." Overlooked is the fact that Mother Nature doesn't ask in situ plants to adjust to soggy conditions one day and dry the next. A heavy soil in a pan of water that keeps the bottom several inches of soil continually saturated will work, as will a well aerated soil you can keep damp but not soggy - one that can be used to provide a continually damp but well-aerated home for a happy root system, but a heavy soil that goes from soggy for days to almost dry and then back again, will work poorly; this, because the plant isn't programmed with the ability to transition back and forth between both sets of conditions. Al

I agree, cut off all the plants and soak it with a hose to get rid of remaining spider mites. Neem oil is suppose to help too. Ive used it on aphids and the first time it didnt work that well but it was better the second time. Also keep the plant outside and water well. Try not to put it in full sun. These are strong plants so they can handle neglect pretty well. By the end of the summer they should look pretty good but dont be surprised if the spider mites do return when it goes indoors. Good luck! -Alex

Pretty newly acquired cat palm, some feet tall and stays in a bright room. Still in the mix it came in from the store. Putting out new fronds. What's up w/these pitted spots? I water maybe less often than I should but I'm afraid of overwatering

My indoor cat ran out the door when guests were leaving after a dinner get-together. As guests were leaving, I was saying goodbye at the door, my nephew started chatting while the front door was open. Kitty shot through the door. We ran out immediately trying to find him but it was dark. I ran back inside to grab a flashlight as my nephew started his car to pull out and the cat ran out from under his car. He shot across the street into the dark. I ran but never found him. Its 6 yrs and I still look for him. He was neutered and chipped. I put his pictures all over the neighborhood, but never found him. I was told he was probably caught by a coyote or something else. He was an orange, long hair and I even went door to door in the daylight looking to see if I could see fur. Knocked on doors, etc. Still wonder what happened to him. Jane