Well, that was bizarre, to borrow a word. I'm still trying to figure out how affording us way more info re the daughter's level of intellect has bearing on the intellect of who we're actually dealing with? A non sequitur. Something I wrote and have posted frequently when the myth that coffee/tea serve well as a tonic, and/or coffee tea grounds are a beneficial addition to container media. Even when there's incoming, I'll try to be helpful even if 'deferential' isn't in the cards. ;-) Coffee/Tea Grounds Forum discussions frequently center on the question of adding dilute coffee/tea or grounds to plants as a 'tonic', but Arabica (coffee) and Camellia (tea) are known for their toxic alkaloid (caffeine) content and their allelopathic affect on plants as well as autotoxic (poison to their own seedlings) effects on future generations. Caffeine interferes with root development by impairing protein metabolism. This affects activity of an important bio-compound (PPO) and lignification (the process of becoming woody), crucial steps for root formation. We also know that the tannins in both coffee and tea are known allelopaths (growth inhibitors). There are ongoing experiments to develop herbicides using extracts from both coffee and tea that cause me to want to say they might serve better as a nonselective herbicide than as a tonic. I would not use either (stale coffee or tea) by applying directly to my plants - especially containerized plants; nor would I add tea bags/coffee grounds to my container soils for reasons noted. Al

Much like coffee, if the leaves/grounds have been used to brew the drink, much of the acid has been removed. Used coffee grounds (UCG's) and tea leaves will have some tannins left in them but far less than if used before the brewing process. Laboratory tests sponsored by Starbucks have shown UCG's to be only very slightly acidic to almost neutral with regards to pH. Either way, they are not an effective method of lowering soil pH - they just offer too little to make much of an impact. Same with most leaves and conifer needles -- contrary to common belief, tests have shown that these materials generally considered to be "acidic" amendments or mulching ingredients have minimal impact on soil pH. They may offer a slight lowering of pH at the soil surface if used as a mulch but once incorporated in to the soil and beginning the decomposition process, their contribution to soil pH is negligible. And once decomposed, like other compost, they will be nearly neutral in pH. Using the brewed liquid rather than the remains should provide better results - that's where all the acidity is - but even that is not going to do much and not for long. Soil pH is dependent primarily on the mineral component of the soil, not on any sort of organic matter that is added to it. Organic matter decomposes and disappears over time while the minerals remain. Altering soil pH to any significant degree is an ongoing process, not a one time thing. You'd have better results with applying sulfur or incorporating peat moss in the planting hole but these methods will need to be repeated as well.

Hi, Bob. I used peroxide on some tropicals over a period of years. I have used it on orchids, mostly in the winter or after a week or so of rain.. Usually I just put it in the watering water each time for a couple of weeks. Mostly, it just gets too expensive to use it constantly I have used it full strength, half water half peroxide, and other mixes down to a couple of glubs in a gallon of water, depending on what I thought the medium/plant needed. The glub-glub per gallon was for regular watering. The higher concentrations was for definitely water-logged media. This is on both tropicals and on orchids. Definitely no harm done. Is there a measurable benefit? It would take a controlled experiment, which I'm not equipped to do. It does oxygenate the roots in water-logged medium. You can see the bubbles as the peroxide works its way thru the pot. I couldn't tell you if there's some other benefit. I keep it around, and mostly use it for a couple of weeks in only problem situation. It's too expensive to use constantly. However, if I thought a plant needed the boost, I would use it each time I watered for a week or two. However, I don't think you need it as a preventative unless a problem arises and you suspect rot, or find a poorly-draining pot. It's expensive to use often on a lot of plants. There's no harm from it so you can use it on a few plants and draw your own conclusions. If you do try it, I hope you'll update this post and let us know what you think.

Had some Labrador Tea tea at bedtime last night. And it was a good thing that I had all night to "think" about it, as any definition initially failed me. The best one word description is smooth. I wouldn't call it sweet, yet adding sugar is not necessary. There is a light taste of a tannin, reminiscent of the earthy bog where it grows, but not strongly astringent or biting. Quick brewing, the color is golden. Unlike pekoe teas, brewing more than a minute doesn't seem to enhance or strengthen the flavor. I include Basswood tea here because Labrador Tea tea is similar. Both seem to have the same base tanin flavor: Labrador Tea with the earthy bog twist, and Basswood with the added flavor of its flower's aroma. Not surprising as the tea is made with the dried flowers themselves. If you have ever had Basswood honey, the same flavor is there too. Basswood tea is even more smooth than Labrador Tea tea, but there is a quality about it that, for me at least, was not offensive yet it needed a bit of getting use to. In North America, Basswood (Linden) is Tilia americana. In Europe, it is Littleleaf Linden (Tilia cordata). When we visit our relatives in Slovenia, this is the tea they had and used almost daily, gathered from the nearby woods. And since I don't like coffee, this is why I got used to it. Littleleaf Basswood is also the national tree of Slovenia. Unlike our state tree (any guesses?), they take it very seriously. The two species of Basswood teas taste the same to me, although I have never tried them side by side. Rick P.S. The Minniesota state tree is the Norway pine or Red pine (Pinus resinosa).