Nicotine. That was the first which really worked to me, I had to spray my plants - tomato but they love peppers even more) in every two week or so or they came back. I put some plants outside from the green house, that helped but I couldn't put out every one of them. As we both smoke and even my granny used nicotine I am not over worried about it, more worried about its price. On the other hand, for white flies terrible amount of sticky tapes hanging on the plants which helped. I think the poisonous effect of nicotine is overestimated, slugs don't mind chewing on tobacco plants, in fact they don't even mind chewing the Aztec tobacco plant (highest nicotine content), just wear gloves when spraying as it is a contact-poison and big drops can fall to your skin, but part of the story we have cats and absolutely nothing happened with them what I can't tell about when we used permethrin (for another problem) which absolutely poisonous to them. Wear gloves, soak tobacco (2 boxes of strong cigarettes' contents) in 1 liter water for a day or two, then filter it and put the liquid into a spray bottle, kick the cats out of the greenhouse / conservatory (if you have) while spraying and wait till it dries on the plants.

JoJo--you really think outside the box, fish tubing sounds like a great idea! Purpleinopp--I have done the squirt bottle watering in the past also--at least they were getting something and I think I had better flowering, too. But when the sunroom starts warming up in April, I'm afraid if I don't give them a good drink, the roots will suffer. Especially my Notocactus since I don't take them out until late May/early June.

i would go as far as saying.. that ALL INTERIOR YELLOWING.. and eventually browning .. IS NORMAL ... no conifer.. nor any evergreen... holds its leaves forever ... varying mostly 1 to 3 year.. with a few to 5 years ... and when they shed the old.. its always the oldest ... and the oldest are always interior to the newer outer growth ... most of you common bugs.. like the fresh new softer growth.. so its rarely bring insect to thought ... with the qualification.. that some get so congested from such.. there can be some bug issues.. but that has nothing to do with the browning itself ... interior browning is complicated by: transplant lack of full establishment drought extreme winter might change my mind... on a pic of the whole.. but i bet such would confirm my suggestions ... ken

One of my first years gardening I found my string beans had many moth like bugs fluttering around so I went to HD and bought some pest control concentrate and a pump sprayer. Never having done this I mixed up a batch and sprayed vigorously but there was a lot left over so I spayed some more. A few hours later hundreds of worms came wiggling out of the ground in broad daylight and died, I had sprayed too much contaminating the soil. I'm fortunate I've never had to use that type of pest control again by trying to garden as organically as possible and tossing plants that are infested rather that treating with harmful chemicals as in above Bayer product, Imidacloprid. To members of the genus Apis, the honey bees, imidacloprid is one of the most toxic chemicals ever created as an insecticide. The acute oral LD50 ranges from 5 to 70 picograms of active ingredient per bee, making it more toxic to bees than the organophosphate dimethoate (oral LD50 0.152 µg/bee) or the pyrethroid cypermethrin (oral LD50 0.160 µg/bee).[28] (For comparison, the weight of just the DNA of a human cell is about 7 picograms.[29]) The toxicity of imidacloprid to bees differs from most insecticides in that it is more toxic orally than by contact. The contact acute LD50 is 0.024 µg active ingredient per bee.