You did make a diagnosis: I would say those to have some viral disease transferred from the seeds. So what viral disease? If I and others didn't recognize that the issue was 2,4 D herbicide damage, I could diagnose the problem as root weevils, or root knot nematodes, or voles, or sun-soil level stem damage, or a lightening strike. But then I would have to support my claim with specific symptoms, signs to check for. So all I am asking is what supports your claim that this is seed borne viral disease? Just the fact that you don't think that only two plants out of 60 could be affected? First we don't know that any other plants were not affected. It may not be as obvious. Second you don't know how these plants were planted relevant to each other or to the sprayed location. But only a few plants being affected happens all the time. Some plants are more susceptible, it depends on where the plants are located relevant to the spraying that was done, the direction of the wind, any clothing or skin contact, the age and development of the plant, and many other variables. But the fact that only 2 of the plants appear to have been affected does not prove it is not 2,4 D damage in any way. And it certainly does not prove that it is a seed borne viral disease. So how does it help the OP to argue that it is? Providing correct info helps the OP and others learn, if nothing else, how to avoid the problem in the future. Providing mis-leading arguments doesn't help in any way. It only mis-leads the OP and confuses the discussion for other readers. So to avoid that let's assume for purposes of a learning discussion that it is a seed borne pathogenic disease. What are they? What are the plant symptoms of them? How are they prevented/treated? How long does the plant survive IF it has one of them? What geographic regions are affected by them? Dave

Agree that you have some sort of caterpillars and leafrollers are a very real possibility as Taz said given some of those tightly rolled leaves. Bt dust or liquid spray (Dipel or Thuricide) is an effective control for them as well as any other caterpillar pest. Some of your leaf roll - the ones without holes - could also just be what is called 'physiological tomato leaf roll' and it is caused by stress. But it doesn't make the holes you have. ID and eliminate the source of the stress and it goes away but your growing method itself could easily be the source of the stress - rootbound, over-crowded, inconsistent soil moisture levels, etc. - so you may be stuck with it. Dave

I suspect everyone hardens their plants a little differently, and if you search this forum you'll undoubtedly find many methods. But I start by setting the plant in the shade for an hour, the next day 2 hours, the next day 4... maybe starting to give it a little sun, gradually building up to them being outside all day (and all night - here, nighttime temp is a concern.) Sometimes I kinda have to do it based on my work schedule and what the weather is like. I'd say take at least a week to 10 days to harden. It looked like your seedling was healthy when it went out, so I think you'll be successful this time around!

Well, I think it is solved. Saw some nice pepper seedlings at the nursery that looked a whole lot better than mine after 3 weeks so decided to just pull them out. Sure enough, they came out easily and the peat pot had only a couple thin roots that made it out, everything else was balled up inside. So replaced them with new peppers, but decided to try and see if I could save these as well. Peeled off the peat pot from each- was surprisingly not that interwoven with roots- and replanted. Probably a lot for some pretty sick peppers to endure but will see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions!