Ilex Nellie R Stevens

12 years ago

Hi everyone!

I'm been trying to do lots of research on the above mentioned holly. It seems to be one of those...almost...a tad marginally hardy??? Though almost all sites say zone 6. I like "her" in photo's and readings as a windbreak and fast growing/privacy. However, I'm afraid to spend More money on a tree that may perish if we have an exceptionally cold winter. (I heard on one site she's not good if temps go below zero, which occasionally I'm sure we may have in some years). She would be a windbreak, so a protected spot (if an abnormally cold year) isn't an option.

Do any of you around this area (SE PA??) have one that's been fine for you over the years? If not, is there any evergreen faster growing holly for a windbreak that's "better" for our zone?

Thanks for any replies!

I have some of the meservae, they don't like winter winds I've seen. Deer like them.

THANKS!!

AMy

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Comments (2)

Mike Larkin
12 years ago
I dont know that hollies grow all that fast. I have seen Nellie Stevens grow in the Harrisburg area. ( we are now zone 7a - was 6b )
I would consider a planting that included a variety of conifers. What do you want to screen and how much space do yo have to plant. Full sun, part sun, wet soil dry....

arborvitae seem to be ok with deer.

Mike

Here is a link that might be useful: my blog
greyandamy
Original Author
12 years ago
Mike,

HGi, THANKS SO MUCH FOR GETTING BACK!!!!! sorry so long in delay, nellie reportedly is fast growing and great for windbreaks. Further reading claims she needs protection winter winds (there goes windbreak theory). I've had POOR luck with conifers, most died,blue spruces/norway spruces are out, too many diseases where I live. Arbs (occidentalis) reportedly don't live too long in this climate (like it a bit cooler).. I never tried other kinds of arbs. I want something not too susceptible to diseases, esp. as various fungi are killing half my garden here. Abies concolor i have, that's it for windbreak at present. I'd take anything else, most E.G's need wind protection... Screening, my goodness, too much to afford, space, a lot but gotta watch money now... Full and part sun, both types of soil... main EGS for screening listed for this part of PA (Pittsburgh area) from Penn state are I believe Pines (but then I read they shouldn't be grown this area- pine blister- it's killed so much).. and norway spruce (again, susceptible to numerous diseases, after a loss of 4 I'm too afraid.. Concolor abies (I'm getting from forest farm)... and some say Nellie R stevens, but messsages conflicting. I always thought arbs needed protection from winds? Just some??

ANY feedback helpful, for now may just have to be some trees I'm getting (decidous), the winds are rough here due to my house, others houses, windtunnels.... few landscape around here so there's not much shade, privacy, anything...

The man beside me is on raised area (my yard drops about 5 feet under his), the lady behind has steep yard with no trees, winds sweep down, erosion and rain from all for sides, messy complicated situation...

house beside just has 2 screaming babies and 2 dogs that are vocal..

Amy
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I have a similar privacy screen along one border of our property...tall evergreens for the back row and flowering decidous shrubs in front. For the back row, we planted on 10' centers and came out about 10' from the property border. We used leatherleaf Viburnums, Carolina cherry laurels, chinese variegated ligustrum, and Ilex 'Nellie R. Stevens' in a balanced pattern across the length of the row. For example, if you were to follow the back row across, we planted: viburnum, cherry laurel, holly, ligustrum, cherry laurel, holly, cherry laurel, ligustrum, holly, viburnum. Because we used a mixture of the same plants on both sides of the center and ended with the same plant, the screen is balanced. For the front row of deciduous flowering shrubs, we followed a similar pattern, but staggered the shrubs so that they wouldn't align with the plants in the back row.
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If you had a hard time finding them, then I would keep them. Hollies respond well to pruning, so they should end up nicely shaped, with a little attention on your part. I would wait until winter to trim anything off - with the obvious exception of dead, crossing or truly wayward branches - the more leaves, the more energy the tree(s) have for growing a good root system, which is what they should be doing this year. Next winter/early spring, you can shorten the 2 outside "leaders" back by about a quarter, so they are a good height to give the shape you want, and trim off or shorten the most awkward of the shoots. Cut to an outward facing bud/leaf, or to the trunk or to a smaller/larger diameter branch - DO NOT leave a stub. You don't HAVE to do all the pruning in one session, so look carefully before cutting, visualize what the cut will look like, and if in doubt, wait for another day. In any case, don't take off more than a quarter of the canopy in any one year. In future years, you can refine the shape, until you have your nice cone shape. I agree, it would be really nice to have the shape now, but if you don't think you can find other N. R. Stevens hollies, then go for it. If you haven't mulched, it will help the tree(s); use any good mulch, with NO landscape cloth or plastic under it, as widely as possible, no deeper than 4", and no mulch in the couple of inches next to the trunk. For the next 2 years, pay careful attention to watering - water only when a finger - or pointed stick to the equivalent depth - pushed down to the second knuckle feels dry - if wet, wait and test again. You should apply the water slowly and deeply, about as much as an inch of rain per week would give.
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Ilex Nellie R Stevens

Comments (2)

Mike Larkin

greyandamy
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Ilex Nellie R Stevens

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Mike Larkin

greyandamyOriginal Author

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greyandamy
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