Zeolite as a soil amendment
ocor25
13 years ago
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Kimmsr
11 years agodchall_san_antonio
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Soil amendments options for blueberries after soil test?
Comments (2)Don't know about more Miracid, but I just did the calcs for langbeinite for you ... Langbeinite can satisfy two things you need - potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg). Langbeinite is 18.8% K and 11.7% Mg. Your soil tests recommends 140 lbs/ acre Mg and 110 lbs/acre of potash (83%K) which translates to 91 lb/acre of K. For the K: 91 lb K/acre @ 0.188 lbs K/lb langbeinite leads to 485 lbs langbeinite/acre, or for your area ~14 lbs langbeinite For the Mg: 140 lbs Mg/acre @ 0.117 lbs Mg/lb langbeinite leads to 1196 lbs langbeinite/acre, or ~ 34 lbs for your area. If you use langbeinite at the amount needed for Mg, you will be adding about 2.5X as much K as called for. If you wanted to go this route, you might check with the soil lab if that amount added would put you into an excessive situation. In my experience those folks are typically very helpful and welcome calls for guidance based upon a test result. I have a quibble with the amount of Epsom salts they advise based upon their Mg recommendation. If you use the 140 lb/acre Mg needed, that would require 1420 lbs of Epsom salts, not 1270. If you use the 1270 lb rate for Epsom salts (9.86% Mg), you would be adding 125 lbs of Mg, not 140. In the above I used the 140 lb/are rate. In the end, I doubt it makes a lot of difference, but their conversion isn't consistent with the need they state. This post was edited by TXEB on Thu, May 23, 13 at 10:40...See MoreTedious Soil Amendment(s)
Comments (21)I use bermuda grass and then whatever is growing in the pastures...which is virtually everything. I wouldn't use bermuda grass if it had formed seedheads. That batch would go into the compost pile so the heat of composting could sterilize the seeds. To prevent anything in the grass clippings OR the soil from sprouting and growing up through the mulch, lay down newspaper or cardboard and then pile on the mulch. If there is any wind, wet down the cardboard or newspaper as you lay it down so it won't blow away before you pile on the mulch. The newspaper or cardboard serves as a barrier. Weed seed beneath it cannot sprout because of the darkness and if it sprouts, it generally cannot penetrate the paper or cardboard. Weed seed on top of the cardboard or paper may sprout, but any plants that sprout in the mulch can't grow down through it and it is easy to pull them out of the mulch when you notice they've sprouted. As a bonus, earthworms adore newspaper and cardboard so having them on the ground attracts them to your soil and since they improve the soil, that's a plus. A couple of tips: 1) Never use any grass clippings from lawn treated with herbicides, including weed and feed fertilizers; 2) If the grass is holding a lot of moisture after it is cut, I leave it in the garden cart or wagon for a day or two and let it dry and then I spread them on the beds; 3) If you have cut tallish bermuda in humid, hot conditions (especially in late spring/early summer) and think chiggers might be lurking in there, spray yourself with an insect repellent before you spread the grass clippings. Then, after you're done, scrub yourself thoroughly to remove any that may be climbing around on you. I have chigger issues about once a year after spreading grass clippings DH has cut and it usually happens in late May or early June. 4) Be very picky about your grass clippings. If neighbors see and understand what you're doing and offer you theirs, make sure their lawns haven't been chemically-treated. 5) If you have an issue with snails, slugs, pill bugs or sow bugs be sure you leave a little open space (at least 1/4") between the mulch and plant stems so you can spot those little buggies and sluggies and kill them dead. (I just sprinkle Slug-Go Plus in that little open area so they can find something to eat. It is just a bonus that the 'something' they find to eat kills them.) Dawn...See MoreHeavy Clay Soil Amendment - Garden Soil?
Comments (16)I guess if you purport to speak with more authority on the subject than those who spend all their time researching and studying these issues, Embothrium, then feel free to call that false. OTOH, I tend to give more weight to opinions of actual horticultural scientists : "Let's say you have incorporated the recommended 25-50% organic matter to your backfill. (Remember that an ideal soil contains 5% organic matter by volume.) The initial results are positive; roots grow vigorously in this ideal environment as long as irrigation is provided. But what happens when these roots encounter the interface between the planting hole and the native soil? Native soil contains fewer available nutrients, is more finely textured and is less aerated. Roots react much in the same way as they do in containers: they circle the edge of the interface and grow back into that more hospitable environment of the planting hole. The roots do not establish in the native soil, eventually resulting in reduced growth rates and hazard status as crown growth exceeds root ball diameter" The Myth of Soil Amendments, Linda Chalker-Scott, PhD...See MoreBest soil amendment for heavy clay soil?
Comments (6)Ultimately, adding anything organic to 'break up clay soil' is counter-productive in the long run. As in, years down the road in most climates - so this is where Embo's question about the type of plants comes into play. If you just have a vegetable garden, go ahead and work some pine bark fines or whatever in the soil. If you are growing permanent long-term landscape plants, likelihood is you are just going to turn the area into more of a quagmire eventually. The only true long term solution is either calcium sulfate or calcitic limestone, if the soil is the type to benefit from it, or the incorporation of agents that permanently change the soil structure. An example would be something like Permatil or Turface that is added to athletic fields. And mind you even this won't fix underlying drainage problems if they exist, although calcitic limestone, applied generously over several years, improved a part of my garden from being so gooey my subcompact tractor almost got stuck it in, to being merely prone to mushiness. Basically, in some clay soils, especially near coastal areas like where I live, magnesium and sodium ions long trapped in the clay are displayed by calcium, forming a clay that aggregates more readily giving water more space to move down into lower soil strata. After a heavy rain now, I can sometimes actually hear a sucking sound as this happens. I still need to fix the drainage in that area with new tile drains, but it's made it a bit less treacherous....See MoreG.Gnome
11 years agoKimmsr
11 years agomaplerbirch
11 years agodchall_san_antonio
11 years agoKimmsr
11 years agoG.Gnome
11 years agoG.Gnome
11 years agomaplerbirch
11 years agoPete_TX
10 years agoKimmsr
10 years agomerrym
10 years agoKimmsr
10 years agoShanna Ciano
7 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agorojos
7 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agorojos
7 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
7 years agorojos
7 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
7 years agorojos
7 years ago
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