Every spring I rake away heavy layers of wet, matted leaves that look awful. Not only do they look bad but they suffocate everything underneath them. I have mostly maple, oak and ash...am I doing something wrong? Yes, you are removing the best natural mulch. ;) It is one that is also far more effective than wood chips at keeping down weeds and it replaces itself every year instead of you having to do all the work of replacing the wood chips every year. But if you don't like its looks just put your wood chips on top of it. To plant annuals just move the leaves aside, plant and put the leaves back in place. Any perennials will come up right through the leaves. Leaf mulch doesn't suffocate anything underneath it - instead it feeds whatever is there, stabilizes the soil moisture levels, and blocks the light that the needs need to sprout. Dave

I have a triple-bin system - here's how I intend to use it. The outer two bins are the working bins. The centre bin is used to hold browns (leaves, straw etc.. we have an abundance of greens and moisture here so I need to stockpile browns). Basicly, i've been loading one of the outer bins all year and will continue to do so until it's time to start actually using the compost (in early spring when i prepare my garden). At this point there are materials in the top layer of the pile that are fresh and not fully composted - remove these items until you reach material you want to use in your garden. The removed items are placed in the second bin (along with a lot of the microherd) to start the second bin going). I then use all the compost up and switch over to the "active" bin for the next year, and then do the same thing all over again in the next year. Some people use the 3-bin system to allow one bin to remain full for a full year, while actively composting in one bin. In this manner it takes a full 2 years to get one finished compost. Maybe that's necessary in some parts of the world but here in south-western canada the compost can be used in the same year because it finishes up really quick.

andi956: good luck with the 'shakin'. :) bamateacha: fresh homemade compost excites me as much as pretty flowers. lol! Most oak leaves are notorious for how leathery and slow they are to break down, but they make great compost. The keys to speeding up the process is to break down the leaves first if possible (mow over them, or run them through a shredder). Then you need to add a nitrogen source (aka 'green'), and moisture... and don't let your leave layers be too thick! But you asked "what do you use for compost...": I've composted for more than 20 years, but it's small-scale and casual. I just use a system of open piles, and because they're small it's a "cold compost" (it never gets really hot). Most of my 'input' is kitchen scraps, coffee grounds (plus what I collect at work), garden waste, fallen leaves, occasional piles of cut grass (if I'm lucky :) and anything that I can beg from my friends. I love getting donations of whole pumpkins and stuff like that. I'm ecstatic today because a guy at work told me he would bring me two bags of fresh horse manure! I've only been lucky enough to get a small amount once before. I *will* compost it before using it though, because otherwise all the seeds in it will sprout! Trust me, I experienced it. lol!

Let's start with a brief explanation of why you should not be feeding your fish during winter. As the water cools in the autumn, the fish start slowing down in preparation for a period of semi-dormancy. Their digestive and immune systems slow down, and they are not capable of digesting the same types of foods that they can during the warmer months. Koi are particularly susceptible to problems at this time, as they have no stomach to aid in digestion; food passes directly into their small intestines, where it will sit and rot. The ensuing intestinal bacteria can pass into their bloodstream, causing sepsis which will debilitate or even kill the immune-suppressed fish. The general rule of thumb is to slow feeding when the water starts to cool into the upper 50s farenheit, feeding small amounts of low protein food a few times a week, and to quit feeding altogether when the water reaches 50. (A thermometer can be purchased for minimal cost and should be suspended in the pond, about 18 inches deep.) If the fish are still hungry, they'll find algae and other natural delights to sustain them, and these simple foods found in the pond will be more easily digested. The above rule, however, applies only to those of us who live in a climate with cold winters. Those living in climates where the water hovers around the 50-55 degree mark have a challenge. As stated, the fish's immune systems are not working up to par at lower temperatures, however, many "bad" bacteria are still active at these temperatures and can create problems in the weakened fish. In these cases, a small quantity of medicated food fed once or twice a week can help the fish withstand the bacterial attack. (Some people also salt their pond at this time as a prevention against parasites that are still active at lower temperatures. There is good information on the Koivet website on salting the pond.) If you feed your fish during this time, be sure to monitor ammonia levels, as the fish will be giving off ammonia in their waste and the bacteria in your biofilter will not be working at these low temperatures. (When testing winter water, always warm the water sample to room temperature before testing.) As the water warms into the fifties in the spring, you can slowly start feeding again. Beware the false spring syndrome! Many people are excited at the prospect of the first warm spring-like days and the increase in fish activity, and begin feeding, only to find the temperatures plunging into the thirtys within days. *BE PATIENT* and wait until you're sure your water temperatures are stable before you begin feeding. Once the water reaches a stable 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it is a good idea to start feeding with a small amount (two or three times a week for no more than three weeks) of medicated food containing Romet or Terramycin, supplemented by low protein, high carbohydrate foods such as wheat germ, cooked squash, brown bread, dark greens (not iceberg lettuce), and fruits high in Vitamin C. As the temps head into the higher 50s, start adding a bit of low-protein pellets to their diet, and increase feedings to four or five times a week if the fish are hungry. As the water heads into the sixties, start increasing the protein in their food. By the time the water is 65-72 F the majority of their food should be a good quality, high-protein food. Avoid foods that contain corn and other plant proteins as primary ingredients; the protein should be from fish or seafood to ensure the fish are getting the proper balance of amino acids that they need to thrive. Fruits, vegetables, shrimp and other live foods can also be given during the warm, active months of the year. Observe your fish closely during spring warm up, as this is when they are most susceptible to bacterial and parasitic invaders. Do NOT overfeed, and be sure to scoop out any uneaten food so it doesn't foul the water. It is best to err on the side of under-feeding and allow your fish to eat the easily digested algae that is often prolific at this time of year, rather than over feed the wrong foods and cause additional stress to your friends as they make the often difficult spring-time transition. Ronaye, Steve and David