I believe these 4 photos graphically point out the area of the head gasket (the right bank of engine) that has begun leaking compression/combustion into the water jacket. This may have led to the radiator cap venting to relieve the subsequent pressure in the cooling system. What I DO NOT see, is an obvious failure of the head gasket directly into either of the pushrod galleries of the head, and that would be the most likely path by which coolant could enter the lube oil sump (but without the "hot fire effect" to act on the gasket at the edge of the galleries, visible damage to the gasket might not occur, even though it is leaking). There are two ways to explain how coolant may have gotten into the lube oil as a result of this leaking head gasket pressurizing the cooling system. (1) The leaking head gasket may have been caused by under-torqued headbolts, which also allowed the pressurized coolant to leak into the pushrod galleries. (2) As a result of enough coolant being expelled from the coolant recovery jug (there is one on the tractor, right?) over time, the cooling system finally reached a point where it could no longer handle the heat load under all conditions. This would mean that the engine was operating hotter than normal at times, and heading for eventual "total cavitation", or "catestrophic boilover" of the cooling system. The repeated overheated events could have allowed the head and/or cylinder to warp or bend, and during that phase, the high pressure in the cooling system could have forced coolant under the head gasket, and into the pushrod galleries. I sort of have a problem believing that the pressurized coolant would ONLY leak into the pushrod galleries, and not also leak to the external surfaces somewhere else around the outside perimeter of the cylinder head gasket. But, I have a "theory" on that too. As a consequence of design, the clamping force of the head bolts is less on the portion of the head gasket at the pushrod galleries. Consider this fact. The clamping force provided by the one head bolt in this sector is spread over a greater area (the entire gallery in addition the edge of the water jacket) and therefore, would be somewhat less at any given point in this sector than the rest of the gasket perimeter. The clamping force may be just enough less, that it can allow high pressure coolant to force its way into the pushrod galleries, but still not be able to escape at other sectors of the perimeter where the clamping force of the head bolts is more concentrated due to the smaller surface area the gasket rests on in those places. ??? If anybody has some insider info to support or rebut my opinion, please give a big shout. loys would certainly appreciate the info.

beachlily, Pat did warn against using too high a concentration for foliar spray. He said it will turn the foliage white and shortly afterward it will die. Thanks lalalandwi for the article, I had not seen it before. From the article, I think K-Phite would be better used against rot. Nancy does use Nickel Plus, and it is being touted as a very good rust preventative, especially when used with a systemic fungicide. Dan Trimmer recently spoke to our club and he is using Nickel Plus in combination with Cabrio EG. Then rotating with Bayleton 50 and Nickel Plus. He said he is able to reduce his spraying to monthly, even during rust season and it is very effective. I have ordered some Nickel Plus. I currently use Cabrio EG and rotate Bayleton 50, each time mixed with a water conditioner and Contact fungicide. I looked up Clevis. Myclobutanil (Eagle), is the systemic fungicide in Clevis. Myclobutanil has not proved very effective against daylily rust. However, the contact in this mixture, mancozeb with zinc is a very good contact fungicide. It's also a point of argument as to whether the products touted to prevent disease by improving immune systems are effective against daylily rust. Rust is a parasite, not a disease and prefers vigorous, growing plants to feed on. I think that may be why it is most active during the high growth periods of daylilies. Ed

I would second (or third?) the opinion that this feature is unnecessary on the conversations forums. I know that the conversations forums are public and whatever is said there can be read by anyone, but this just makes it a little too easy for someone to collect personal info on a poster. In lieu of eliminating the feature on conversations forums, could an individual poster elect to have his or her posts not clipped, or could the originator of a thread opt to have the thread not subject to clipping? Also, please look at a conversation forum thread - with the tan background in those forums, the white clippings box does indeed become visually obtrusive. When there are several short posts in a row it really becomes dominant. If the clippings box must stay, it would be nice if it could have the same background color. Thanks for considering these suggestions. V.

A "sanitary tee" is a specific kind of pipe fitting used where waste is involved (hence "sanitary") that allows one pipe to join in with a main run (a "T" shape). It is different than a "straight tee" in that the way it is shaped, flow down the main branch doesn't have as much of a tendency to flow into the branch.